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Gunsmithing 10/22's and 77/22"s since 1994 Phone 1-860-343-0552
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gunsmither.. Ok - your 10/22 extractor removal tool works well.. Now, this other tool you got - to install 10/22 bolt assembled with handle and spring... Could it install a complete bolt with the handle welded in place... A hard assembly, one piece... Every time I pull the trigger on a 10/22 the handle does a dance, jumping around... Im wondering how this weapon will do without the jumping about?
 

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Always Ready to Play!

:) Thats an interesting idea, Randy! Glad you liked the Extractor Removal Tool. I don't think my Combination Bolt Assembly and Extractor tool will work for your idea, though. :(

If you did weld the handle to the bolt, will you be able to get the handle thru the receiver, and will you be able to push the recoil rod into place?

Perhaps a hardened screw, countersunk, and up thru the bottom of the bolt, threaded into the handle, would be easier. A tight fitting, hardened pin, thru handle, into bolt, (loose enough to allow seperation, a snug "slip fit") might also be worthy of some study.

That way you could still dis-assemble bolt and handle nearly the same way as standard by just removing bolt/handle screw, or lift up bolt off of pin. This could have possibilities! Carbide Drill Bits, here We Come!

This would make for a quieter gun, and possibly increase accuracy by holding the bolt tighter to the cartridge head, maybe? I wonder how much hammer energy is wasted driving the loose fitting handle and bolt slot together every time the gun is fired? This could be partly to blame for some occasional "Blooper" sounding shots. A tighter handle/bolt lockup could only improve things, I think.

Sounds like a really fun experiment. I'm going to check it out. Let me know if you do weld one up. SAFE SHOOTIN ! Joe:t
 

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what would happen if the handle was welded to the bolt and the spring/rod was made to remove from the handle?

this would allow the bolt to be dropped into the reciever and then the spring/rod to be fed into the handle, kind of like the Remington 597 setup. Wouldn't this work better than trying to remove the entire assembly?
 

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Sounds like the one-piece charging handle and bolt would cure a lot of misalignment between the bolt face and the breach face during fire too. Very interesting scenario to think about. Please let us know how it works out if one of you tries it.
 

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WOW! The thought never even occurred to me. Drill & tap 2 holes and countersink. Dang, now I have to dig up some stainless steel countersunk screws. #6 should be abought right dontcha think?
 

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Gunsmithing 10/22's and 77/22"s since 1994 Phone 1-860-343-0552
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok Gunsmither, if you get a chance to look at it, that would be good...

chundoo... Sure, I seen the aftermarket bolts, I like the Ruger bolt because I see that its got more going for it...
 

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and while you're at it...

drill a hole through the port side of the handle and make a setup for a dual rod/spring action

and you can also use a 10/22 Mag handle
 

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CPC said:
Gunsmither.. Ok - your 10/22 extractor removal tool works well.. Now, this other tool you got - to install 10/22 bolt assembled with handle and spring... Could it install a complete bolt with the handle welded in place... A hard assembly, one piece... Every time I pull the trigger on a 10/22 the handle does a dance, jumping around... Im wondering how this weapon will do without the jumping about?
Are you going to drill & tap w/guntite, or are you going to weld, or are you considering fabbing?

This sounds like an interesting idea... :)

Is it possible to place 2 (flush) screws thru the bolt to the charging handle, and guntite them? This might work out...???
 

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What about two dowel pins? Easier than tapping (not bad below the surface), less drastic than welding. Two pins would easily capture the charging handle. Press fit should do fine.

.22 WMR handle is a plus! I am very pleased with it!
 

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Gunsmithing 10/22's and 77/22"s since 1994 Phone 1-860-343-0552
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
A single screw through bolt threaded into handle will work... The handle being pulled down will most likely bind the firing pin until its relieved... Would eliminate firing pin staking and the use of a forward hold down dowel pin when done right... Don't hold your breath waiting for me too try it, Im busy with normal work...
 

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Well, Im setting here looking at my bolt and charging handle. I dont see any reasonable way to do it. The extractor is in the way on one side, and the other side doesnt have enough material to tap because of the rod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Plenty of room just behind extractor, half way between firing pin and outside edge... Can easily get a #2 - 56 or #3 screw in, maybe even a big fat #4 - 40 screw?
 

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ChiefDave said:
Buying a Volquartsen bolt *****is*********
much cheaper than buying *****a machine shop*****
But if you have acess to a machine shop :)D ) its much cheaper to do it yourself. Im going to have to think on this one for a bit.
 
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