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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings all --

This is my first post to RFC. As the title of my post suggests, I'm building a 10/22 for my daughter's 12th birthday. Here's the plan and would hope some of you could offers some suggestions along the way.

I'm using a Tannery 80% cast s/s 10/22 receiver which I hope to receive this week or next. I'll mill off the integral weaver base on top and keep the open sights. I don't believe that a young shooter's first rifle should be wearing any glass.

I've ordered a colorful lami stock from Richard's Mirco Gunstocks in the "Sportster" model, which I think should look nice against the s/s. I'm planning on using a standard contour s/s bbl. I was trying to think of ways to reduce the weight as much as possible, but my choice of metal and wood has already made that pretty much a moot point.

One question I have is regarding the open sights. What alternatives are there to the Ruger factory sights? In particular, what rear sight can I install in the dove tail of the barrel that allows for both windage and elevation?

Secondly, what trigger group should I be looking for and how much should I spend on it?

Finally, is ebay the best place to look for parts? I still need to purchase the s/s bbl., trigger group and maybe an extended mag release or such. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. This is my first attempt at building a 10/22 and I want my daughter to be proud of her "daddy". Many thanks.

-- ale
 

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Welcome to RFC!

I'd make one comment and let some others chime in in the morning about this. I'd STRONGLY suggest you reconsider milling off the scope base. If it was mine, I'd opt for one of the available rear sights that will mount on that rail, and just put a little higher front scope on instead. That way, when she graduates, you won't have to wish it was still there!

Heck with it.. here's more. Depending on how deep your pockets are.... The VQ hammer will run you about $32 and will drop the trigger to around 2 1/2 pounds. From there, you can bypass all the rest and go to a Kid trigger which is, I think, between $275 and $300.....but is the best that can be had.

E-Bay? I'd start right here with our advertisers to begin with. You'll probably do better here in the long run.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, guys --

I really like the Williams peep sites. I was originally going to go with a peep, but that would leave a blank spot in the bbl where the dove tail is already milled out. I could fill it with JB weld, but I don't know how it would look against the s/s. My other thought was to JB weld the rear slot, then add some flutes along the bbl just past the receiver to hide what's left of the dove tail weld. I've never used JB weld so I don't know if it comes in different "finishes".

The reason I want to mill off the top base is to reduce as much weight as possible. Also, from what I've been able to tell, the front sight would be over 1" tall from the bottom of the dove tail in order to line up with the rear sight, if I use the integral base. As a side note, I did order two of these receivers, so if I don't mess up on the first one, I'll have a second to play with.

I'll spend a little more time looking at our advertisers. Thanks for the reminder. Again, I'm just getting started so any and all thoughts and suggestions are welcome. BTW, my daughter got all A's except for one B last semester, so I really wanted to reward her with something special.

-- ale
 

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Well, I'd say that a built-from-the-ground-up gun is a very nice reward if the young lady is into the shooting sports..:t

Are you planning on threading the barrel and action? If you are going this far, it seems that should be a given...

BTW..if you are using an after market barrel, chances are it won't have the dovetails to begin with...

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've thought about threading the bbl and receiver, as well as using an aftermarket bbl. Most are .920" and I am concerned about the weight issue. Should I go with a 16" bbl instead of the 18.5" std size? I have access to a full size lathe and mill so the flutes and threads are no problem. I really need to make up my mind on the dia. because it's holding up my order on the gunstock.

I have two other stock 10/22's that she already shoots and seems to like a lot. I'll take one apart and study it tonight to perhaps get a better idea on which direction to head in. I'll be documenting my progress as I go, but for now it's just like trying to pick out new tile for the bathroom -- so many choices to consider :confused:

-- ale
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Okay, here's an update on where I think I'm headed...

Just got off the phone with Brownell's tech support. First off, I'm going to take the most ambitious road possible and start with a Shilen unturned s/s bbl blank (sound crazy so far?). He recommended using a Mason Precision Bentz finisher reamer for the chamber. I'll cut the bbl down to 18", add some flutes and crown the muzzel. I'll also thread and tap the bbl and receiver, per Ron's suggestion (any idea what size tpi I should use?).

For the sights, I'll use the William's grooved receiver with target knobs, Lipski bbl band and base, and Lyman's 93 MJT match globe front sight. Haven't decided on which trigger group to buy, but I can figure that out later.

This is turning into a much bigger (and heavier) project than I originally thought, but it shoud be a lot of fun. I've been studying the prints of the receiver and have most of the dims worked out. Just need to know what size threads to use on the bbl.

Once I get started, I'll post some pics if anyone is interested. Thanks for all your suggestions and please feel free to add any advice you think might be helpful.

-- ale
 

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ANOTHER THOUGHT


Some competitive shooter's shoot barrel's with so called bloop tubes.
This is when the barrel is back bored and the crown is inside the resulting tube.
They do this for two reasons I know of
1 to increase the distance between front and rear sights without increasing the chamber to crown length.
2 to decrease the time the bullet is in contact with the barrel grooves
I have seen barrels that have the crown at fourteen inches that shoot very well and when asked if all the powder had time to burn a quick swab of the tube was convincing enough for me.
In your case it could , cut down some unwanted weight and keep the rifle at a legal length limit
 

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standard thread...

I belive the standard thread for joining the receiver and bbl is 3/4x16. Also, on the Tannery Shop receivers, you are dealing with theoretical planes to accurately ream and thread the barrel opening because this is one of the areas left "unfinished" to keep it legal to sell w/o FFL. I've never done this, thus don't speak ENTIRELY from experience. I would seriously consider one of the Jigs for your machining the receiver. I have done some fairly complex (to me) stuff without true jugs, and it drove me NUTS! :D It sounds like you've gotten pretty much everything else squared away :) On the trigger, the BEST out there is the KIDD, an RFC sponsor, next in line is just the plain old VQ HAMMER! available anywhere noteworthy, and a few little tricks posted all over these forums!

Have fun, and enjoy RFC!

Sincerely,
GAU-2
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Tannery closes shop for 12 months!!

Wow, talk about a set back... :(

I just learned that William will be serving in our military for the next 12 months. Talk about bad timing!

Well, I can't give up now. Unless I can find another Tannery receiver someone would be willing to sell me, I'm going ahead with plan B: a 0% billet receiver with 500% more hours to invest! Who knows, I might even have it done before William returns from overseas :p

I finished taking apart my old 10/22 that I received when I was 12, s/n 1829xx (yeah, I'm that old...hahaha). It doesn't look too difficult, except for the breech area and around the ejection port. Since I'm planning on threading the bbl, I was thinking about adding another .55" to the front lug where the v-block attaches and using a larger size pivot bolt for extra support. My receiver doesn't exactly match the plans that I'm working with, but I'll try my best to duplicate the more critical areas (anyone want to tell me where those areas are? :confused: ). For instance, the width inside my receiver is 0.975", but the width of my bolt is only .935". Should I try to lap the bolt inside the receiver or stick with the measured tolerance I have now? These are the sorts of questions I'll be asking so please be patient with me.

tenshot --

The "bloop tube" is an excellent idea. I think I'll use it :t

GAU-2 --

The tpi you mentioned sounds like somethinsg I read somewhere before, so I know it's right. Many thanks. Once I square up the sides and bottom, I'll drill the holes for the pins first, stick a rod through them and use my edge finder to index the rest.

Thanks to eveyone for taking the time to answer my questions. If I do build this from billet and use the bloop tube idea, I'll be getting back to the desired weight I had intended, so maybe the Tannery work stopage was just a blessing in disguise ;)

-- ale
 

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If it was me, that .975/.935 wouldn't be NEAR that sloppy. There has been some shimming expirementation with that dimension here....with positive results...

Can't remember for sure, but I think Sid has been working with that.

And if you are going from a billet, I'd dang sure have two take down screws instead of one.

Ron
 

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aleaddict....

I would be concerned about the legality of making a receiver from scratch. Since that's where the serial number is, that's what is LEGALLY a firearm.
ATF and your local law enforcement might seriously frown on your endevor.
Just something to keep in mind.
Paul
 

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Here's ANOTHER idea...

There are receivers made of steel that are already threaded. They are made by M.O.A. Corperation, and are sold by several places. Brownells it the most notable. They are about $168 from them for "normal" people. They are threaded to 3/4"x16 and are ready for use as quick as you get them :) Here's a couple links...

http://brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=13793

http://www.moaguns.com/1022receiver.htm

http://www.hoosiergunworks.com/catalog/actions.html
You'll have to scroll down on the Hoosier Gun Works site.

Hope these help!!

Sincerely,
GAU-2
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Antlurz (I love that handle!!) --

I thought that "play" seemed a little excessive. I like tight tolerances, especially if it means improving accuracy. Before I start on my receiver, I'll purchase a bolt and measure the sides to match the inside of the receiver housing. I'm thinking no more than .005" to start with and see how it functions from there. Remember the old saying: "measure twice, cut once."

The second lug sounds like a good idea. It would be drilled under the grip area of the stock, I assume. Are there any photos of this "second pivot screw" that I could look at?

Now the good news: William said the 10/22 receivers were sent! I'll wait to see how they look before I decide whether to build from billet or use his s/s castings. I'll post some pics of them when they arrive.

knitepoet --

I appreciate your concerns. There is nothing illegal about building a rifle, either from scratch or from an 80% partially completed receiver, if 1) you are not in the business of manufacturing firearms, 2) you are not prohibited from owning a firearm, and 3) it is for personal use only. There is a letter from the ATF posted on Frank Roderus's home gunsmithing web site here. It's in a *.zip format so you'll have to download it to read it. If it were illegal, this hobby would have been stopped a long time ago. As it is, there is a pretty strong market for 80% receivers, which are not all that hard to complete. I'll be posting pics of my work as soon as I get started.

GAU-2 --

Thanks for that info. I was thinking about one of the aftermarket 10/22 receivers, but now that William has sent the one's I ordered I'm pretty much set. If they don't arrive for some reason, I'll have to consider that as an option.

Thanks again to everyone for your suggestions and advice.

-- ale
 

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As to that extra mounting point, if I was doing it, I would just imagine a standard 10/22 receiver with a block about 3/4" X 3/4" stuck on the rear end of it, going vertically all the way from the bottom to the top of the receiver and drilled vertically through. That way, you could use a standard outletted stock for a 10/22 that just was inletted more in the rear to accept it. Then drill all the way down through it and the stock for a thru and thru pilot, then tap the block and insert an eschutcheon on the bottom of the stock and build a bolt to match it all..

I could draw a picture or alter a photo for you if you want..

Ron
 

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If you're worried about weight, why not just use a regular 10/22 with tapered barrel & aluminum action, put on a nice stock, and drop in a VQ hammer. It'd still be special because of the stock , and shoot better than the others because of the trigger.

Then you can take your time with the 80% receivers, make use of the rail, put on a good heavy barrel, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Antlurz --

I get the picture now. Seems like an easy mod, too.

MikeL --

I was originally going to go with the std contour bbl, but when tenshot suggested the "bloop tube", I decided I could shave some weight off the muzzle and flute the remainder of the bbl where all the bulk is.

Also, I want to build her a rifle, as opposed to buying a "parts gun", simply because I enjoy doing it. When it get's passed down to my grandkids and their kids, they'll always say, "This is the li'l shooter that great-grampa ale built for grandma on her 12th birthday" :p

-- ale
 

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Aleaddict, sounds like you've done your homework:D
You've also taught me something that might come in handy for future reference.
Thank you!
Paul
 

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Aleadict,

That's quite a project. Here's a little personal experiance, where the stock is concerned.

Richards makes big stocks:


You know of course laminated wood is heavy. Just to let you know.

I recently built one for my daughter, She is 14, and small for her age. She is also left handed, here's hers at its current state:



OK I was concerned about weight too. Her rifle with the scope is a little less than 5 lbs. The stock was cut/shaped to fit her,(I have a very hard time shooting it). I would still go with a CF barrel, but would opt for a VQ, or simular quality rather than the Butler Creek. Her first was an air rifle, and it has peep sights. The scope was a gift from her gradparents.

I still have work to do to her 10/22. But she loves it as is, and I highly doubt you'll find another just like it.

I admire you're desire to build one from the ground up. Nothing at all wrong with that.:t If weight is a concern, I'd go with a composit bbl. and a solid wood stock. Still it sounds like a great project
 
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