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198 Posts
RICOCHET
After you stain it, what type of top coat were you going to put on it?
The reason I ask, is that sometimes using a compatible dye mixed in the actual topcoat can be the way to go for the LIGHTER colors. For something darker, there is other methods I would use. You don't have to worry about blotching and reactions nearly as much doing this. I have used the Transtint dyes quite a bit in Water Basedy acrylic, dewaxed shellac, and lacquer (with sprayer) and then just build up the coats of the finish to the desired color level, and then topcoat with the untinted finish to build up the rest. In some cases, you will want to use a slightly tinted version for the first coat and then the full tinted finish for the next ones. A dab of water based dye in water based finish works well also, I just prefer the Transtint liquids, and a few drops will go a long way. Always, start out with a very tiny amount mixed in the finish and go up from there, since this stuff is potent. Just remember, to practice on a few scraps of white wood until you have the finish color you like, both with an initial lightly tinted finish coat and without. Also, use a rag to apply to eliminate any runs or uneven coloring.
I use this technique on woods that will splotch badly like pine all the time. Since you are going for that blonde/golden type of color, this method may work very well for you. This tinted finish method is basically what the MinWax Polyshades and the tinted Watco oil finishes are doing that you can buy in stores.
A good amber dewaxed shellac would make a nice color to the level you want, and then can be topcoated with an acrylic for toughness, since the shellac is dewaxed. This can look great.
The bleaching suggestions here should work for you. Just make sure to clean off the residue the best you can, and then sand down a little bit. Some of the chemicals in these can react with the finishing products and change the color of the wood chemically. Maybe, that is what happened to Gitarmac when it kept changing back to a dark color since it reacted to whatever residue that might have been there from the stripping process.
After you stain it, what type of top coat were you going to put on it?
The reason I ask, is that sometimes using a compatible dye mixed in the actual topcoat can be the way to go for the LIGHTER colors. For something darker, there is other methods I would use. You don't have to worry about blotching and reactions nearly as much doing this. I have used the Transtint dyes quite a bit in Water Basedy acrylic, dewaxed shellac, and lacquer (with sprayer) and then just build up the coats of the finish to the desired color level, and then topcoat with the untinted finish to build up the rest. In some cases, you will want to use a slightly tinted version for the first coat and then the full tinted finish for the next ones. A dab of water based dye in water based finish works well also, I just prefer the Transtint liquids, and a few drops will go a long way. Always, start out with a very tiny amount mixed in the finish and go up from there, since this stuff is potent. Just remember, to practice on a few scraps of white wood until you have the finish color you like, both with an initial lightly tinted finish coat and without. Also, use a rag to apply to eliminate any runs or uneven coloring.
I use this technique on woods that will splotch badly like pine all the time. Since you are going for that blonde/golden type of color, this method may work very well for you. This tinted finish method is basically what the MinWax Polyshades and the tinted Watco oil finishes are doing that you can buy in stores.
A good amber dewaxed shellac would make a nice color to the level you want, and then can be topcoated with an acrylic for toughness, since the shellac is dewaxed. This can look great.
The bleaching suggestions here should work for you. Just make sure to clean off the residue the best you can, and then sand down a little bit. Some of the chemicals in these can react with the finishing products and change the color of the wood chemically. Maybe, that is what happened to Gitarmac when it kept changing back to a dark color since it reacted to whatever residue that might have been there from the stripping process.
