I had a similar problem with a romanian training rifle. I used HOT water and simple green first scrubed it good with a scrub brush. Then rinsed and mixed clorox bleach and hot water and scrubbed the heck out of it then rinsed and let dry for 24 hours. It turned out real good. Wear rubber goves when you use the bleach.
Bleach a stock ??
yea, people,
am trying to refinish a stock, dont know what kind of tree it came from, but
after doing some, actually a lot of sanding, the result is coming out blotchy, like i need to sand a whole lot more. it's already smooth, just cant be rid of the factory stain. think dalmation dog. remember some here used household clorox. tried some minwax stain and still blotchy. need to go to extremes i guess.
do i just spary it on ?? then what do i do as the next step ?? will it take out the old factory stain ?? want bare, "white" wood if possible, so the stain, dye will take evenly..
thanks all for any tips, hints.
am trying to refinish a stock, dont know what kind of tree it came from, but
after doing some, actually a lot of sanding, the result is coming out blotchy, like i need to sand a whole lot more. it's already smooth, just cant be rid of the factory stain. think dalmation dog. remember some here used household clorox. tried some minwax stain and still blotchy. need to go to extremes i guess.
do i just spary it on ?? then what do i do as the next step ?? will it take out the old factory stain ?? want bare, "white" wood if possible, so the stain, dye will take evenly..
thanks all for any tips, hints.
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
recumbent,
did you do any sanding on the factory finish ?? looks like romanian and russian stain come from the same place. may be the type of wood. thanks for the tips. will try again tomorrow. need to get the min-wax stain off.
did you do any sanding on the factory finish ?? looks like romanian and russian stain come from the same place. may be the type of wood. thanks for the tips. will try again tomorrow. need to get the min-wax stain off.
the bleach
Corpsie clued me into spraying the bleach on. It works great...but I do it outside where there is plenty of ventilation. I cover it once, wait about an hour, cover it again, wait about thirty minutes and then I rinse it with really hot water. Very easy to do. I usually wait 24 hours at this point, but an hour with a blow dryer has helped when I am impatient.
Corpsie clued me into spraying the bleach on. It works great...but I do it outside where there is plenty of ventilation. I cover it once, wait about an hour, cover it again, wait about thirty minutes and then I rinse it with really hot water. Very easy to do. I usually wait 24 hours at this point, but an hour with a blow dryer has helped when I am impatient.
markd,
anyone, have sanded all the "finish" off and tried to stain to cover the blotches up. no go. so now i guess i wait till the min wax stain is dried before i use the bleach or do i have to sand the min-wax off which is already impregnated into the wood.
thanks again.
anyone, have sanded all the "finish" off and tried to stain to cover the blotches up. no go. so now i guess i wait till the min wax stain is dried before i use the bleach or do i have to sand the min-wax off which is already impregnated into the wood.
thanks again.
Sanding or stripping
Yikes...sounds like sanding again.
If I remember right, Richochet, you're one of those that doesn't do the chemical stripping, right?
I can understand that, but it sure has saved me a lot of time.
Yikes...sounds like sanding again.
If I remember right, Richochet, you're one of those that doesn't do the chemical stripping, right?
I can understand that, but it sure has saved me a lot of time.
markd, no, not against trying to save some work using a stripper.
what kind of stripper should i get, never used a stripper before, well actually she wanted too much, lol. dont wanna make a month's project out of this boo-boo i did. wanna shoot this new gun as soon as the weather lets up. in the meantime................
what kind of stripper should i get, never used a stripper before, well actually she wanted too much, lol. dont wanna make a month's project out of this boo-boo i did. wanna shoot this new gun as soon as the weather lets up. in the meantime................
Hey RIC, stripper is the easiest way. I prefer a good gel stripper, wear gloves and wash the stock off good after wards, then hang it up and let it dry good before going on. If you still have the dark spots after the stripper, then try bleaching it.
yea, guys, am just trying to get rid of some stain that i just put on. there was actually no "finish" on the stock, so may not need a stripper. just want to "whiten" the wood over-all so the stain, dye will take evenly.
thanks again all
thanks again all
I used stripper on mine and then sanded. I had one stock that would turn factory brown again when any kind of finish was put on it. I wound up using rit blue and it came out purply blue. It wasn't what I had planned but it's not too bad. I really want to make a blonde one but I'm not sure that's possible on a factory finished stock. I've already been spending too much money but I still have one stock 10/22 left that sooner or later I will get some woodburst driftwood stain and see how that goes.
yea, gitar,
wanna stain it kinda a blonde color. have "golden oak" min wax and did a stock with that color and came out nice, but that factory wood was real "white" after sanding. this stock is confusing me, so may have to bleach it out before staining. will wait for the min wax i already applied to dry and give it another go-round tomorrow. wanna finish it so i can shoot it; new gun, lol.
thanks again.
wanna stain it kinda a blonde color. have "golden oak" min wax and did a stock with that color and came out nice, but that factory wood was real "white" after sanding. this stock is confusing me, so may have to bleach it out before staining. will wait for the min wax i already applied to dry and give it another go-round tomorrow. wanna finish it so i can shoot it; new gun, lol.
thanks again.
Try some Oxy-Clean, it works great on fabric. You can try Oxy-Spa too. I had some wine stains on an oak floor and it ate them right up. I'm sure it will not cut through any finishes though. Just stains on bare wood. It works better than bleach in my opinion. I have tried bleach on furniture and had little luck.
if household bleach doesn't work...
If household bleach doesn't work, you might want to try some Pool Shock chlorine. Be really careful, but that will definetly take all the color out.
I have used Bix and Dad's Easy Spray stripper. I think the Dad's product is better in my opinion, and certainly cheaper than the other stripper you were referring to.
I generally strip, bleach, sand, (maybe use an clothes iron with wet towel if there are serious dents,) then sand, then burnish, stain, burnish, and finally seal.
Haven't tried the Oxy products but they are probably worth investigating also as I have heard they work very well also.
If household bleach doesn't work, you might want to try some Pool Shock chlorine. Be really careful, but that will definetly take all the color out.
I have used Bix and Dad's Easy Spray stripper. I think the Dad's product is better in my opinion, and certainly cheaper than the other stripper you were referring to.
I generally strip, bleach, sand, (maybe use an clothes iron with wet towel if there are serious dents,) then sand, then burnish, stain, burnish, and finally seal.
Haven't tried the Oxy products but they are probably worth investigating also as I have heard they work very well also.
RICOCHET
After you stain it, what type of top coat were you going to put on it?
The reason I ask, is that sometimes using a compatible dye mixed in the actual topcoat can be the way to go for the LIGHTER colors. For something darker, there is other methods I would use. You don't have to worry about blotching and reactions nearly as much doing this. I have used the Transtint dyes quite a bit in Water Basedy acrylic, dewaxed shellac, and lacquer (with sprayer) and then just build up the coats of the finish to the desired color level, and then topcoat with the untinted finish to build up the rest. In some cases, you will want to use a slightly tinted version for the first coat and then the full tinted finish for the next ones. A dab of water based dye in water based finish works well also, I just prefer the Transtint liquids, and a few drops will go a long way. Always, start out with a very tiny amount mixed in the finish and go up from there, since this stuff is potent. Just remember, to practice on a few scraps of white wood until you have the finish color you like, both with an initial lightly tinted finish coat and without. Also, use a rag to apply to eliminate any runs or uneven coloring.
I use this technique on woods that will splotch badly like pine all the time. Since you are going for that blonde/golden type of color, this method may work very well for you. This tinted finish method is basically what the MinWax Polyshades and the tinted Watco oil finishes are doing that you can buy in stores.
A good amber dewaxed shellac would make a nice color to the level you want, and then can be topcoated with an acrylic for toughness, since the shellac is dewaxed. This can look great.
The bleaching suggestions here should work for you. Just make sure to clean off the residue the best you can, and then sand down a little bit. Some of the chemicals in these can react with the finishing products and change the color of the wood chemically. Maybe, that is what happened to Gitarmac when it kept changing back to a dark color since it reacted to whatever residue that might have been there from the stripping process.
After you stain it, what type of top coat were you going to put on it?
The reason I ask, is that sometimes using a compatible dye mixed in the actual topcoat can be the way to go for the LIGHTER colors. For something darker, there is other methods I would use. You don't have to worry about blotching and reactions nearly as much doing this. I have used the Transtint dyes quite a bit in Water Basedy acrylic, dewaxed shellac, and lacquer (with sprayer) and then just build up the coats of the finish to the desired color level, and then topcoat with the untinted finish to build up the rest. In some cases, you will want to use a slightly tinted version for the first coat and then the full tinted finish for the next ones. A dab of water based dye in water based finish works well also, I just prefer the Transtint liquids, and a few drops will go a long way. Always, start out with a very tiny amount mixed in the finish and go up from there, since this stuff is potent. Just remember, to practice on a few scraps of white wood until you have the finish color you like, both with an initial lightly tinted finish coat and without. Also, use a rag to apply to eliminate any runs or uneven coloring.
I use this technique on woods that will splotch badly like pine all the time. Since you are going for that blonde/golden type of color, this method may work very well for you. This tinted finish method is basically what the MinWax Polyshades and the tinted Watco oil finishes are doing that you can buy in stores.
A good amber dewaxed shellac would make a nice color to the level you want, and then can be topcoated with an acrylic for toughness, since the shellac is dewaxed. This can look great.
The bleaching suggestions here should work for you. Just make sure to clean off the residue the best you can, and then sand down a little bit. Some of the chemicals in these can react with the finishing products and change the color of the wood chemically. Maybe, that is what happened to Gitarmac when it kept changing back to a dark color since it reacted to whatever residue that might have been there from the stripping process.
out of curiousity, can you bleach laminate? then re-dye it?
for what the problem you are describing, I would use a chemical stipper, dry, rinse, bleach, let dry, bleach again for further results, sand and maybe bleach again, rinse, dry, final sand and then finish have taken bad blotches out of several stocks this way. Also a neat trick if you want to darken a stock without staining try ammonia, sometimes brings out a better looking grain pattern. Good Luck
hi boys and girls, thanks for all the hints and tips. figured out why the stock was coming out "blotchy" as i was hand sanding. the wood had some valleys, low spots. not flat. took my palm sander and went at it. its okay now. went to bare white wood. used one coat of minwax "red oak" for a "base" and 3 coats of "golden oak" for a top coat, gave some highlites to this bland piece of russian wood. looks pretty good. in a day or two will clear coat with some poly acrylic gloss and will be done and can go shoot this new gun.
thanks again all. btw printed out some of the hints here for future reference.
thanks again all. btw printed out some of the hints here for future reference.
when it's done
After you shoot it, are you going to post pictures?
After you shoot it, are you going to post pictures?
yes, i will post pics, but not sure where to do that. maybe here, but may get moved as it is a russian gun, but am talking about a stock, so admin may let it pass. lol.
need to poly a coupla more coats.
need to poly a coupla more coats.
another question about bleaching laminate: will the glue between layers remain black, or will this lighten up as well? I am working on a modified factory stock and was going for a very light blue dye (possibly watercolor paint) and spraying on a clear coat of paint to finish it all up.
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
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