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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK guys. What do you use with your wet cans? It came with Lithium grease and a nifty little applicator (which I am going to make better). Lithium grease is not as quiet as water but seems to last longer betwixt filling. Surely there is a happy medium (no pun intended);) between the two. What do you guys use.


D.
 

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Gel Shave And Is Water Clean Up

Lith is a mess when mixed with carbon fouling. Shave Gel goes in in a small stream then expands which makes for easy application and cleans up with HOT Water.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Shaving cream

I seem to be having a problem when using Lithium grease because it obstructs the bore of the suppressor. I am very careful to make sure that the grease is all out of the way when I put the supp. on the gun but after the first shot it froths and clogs everything up. I am putting the prescribed amount in and it still does this. What scares me is that the bullets are keyholing the target and I am finding little pieces of jacket from time to time in the supp. So far there is no damage to the baffles that I can see after I cleaned it and looked inside with a borelight. It does not do this with water in it and I know that the can is on straight because AWC threaded it (otherwise no warranty). I am also checking between 2 and 3 shots and the can is still on tight. What I am wondering is- when you put the shaving cream in and it expands, it will surely obstruct the bore and will I be in the same or worse boat? Sorry for the long explanation but wanted to cover all of the bases so you wouldn't have to come back with "can loosening up" or "you are putting too much grease in".

Thanks,
D.
 

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Shaving cream

This is just my theory on it... From using the stuff for over 5 years now (for it's intended purpose) ROFL!!! It reaches a certain point where it no longer lathers up.... You should reach the same point in your can (or try to) before you fire a round through it.

On the lithium, the only suggestion I could POSSIBLY offer would be to cut back even on the reccommended amount, say put in 2/3'rds or less than what it reccommends....

Let us know how it works out for you!!! :D

Sincerley,
GAU-2
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
1.5 megs

1.5megs I really don't know how to shorten them but I could try. Otherwise, you could kick back with a beer, watch the game, and let the phoneline do the work :D Got a cable modem here so "SIZE DOESn't MATTER" hehe

D.
 

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brainstorming (again)

Ok, there is this "stuff" It's blue in color, and is used in welding for MIG guns (possibly others) but it is used to keep the wire from fuzing to the gun tip. It withstands VERY high teperatures, and doesn't seem to create a lot of smoke. I'll get teh name off the jar, and post it, but it seems that this stuff may be JUST the ticket for "wet" medium!

Edited to add: The stuff is just called "Nozzle dip" You'd think they'd be a little more creative :)

Sincerely,
GAU-2
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
KY!!!

KY works GREAT! I have experimented at length with it. No pun intended. Next to water, it is the quietest in my can. Lasts a few rounds longer than water too. Always open for options though. Good thinking.
D.
 

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GAU-2
That blue stuff you are refering to is "anti spatter" in a gell.
Used for exactly what you said Mig welding guns could be found at any weld supply place.
Not sure if it would work in a can dont know much about them
Active Duty.
 

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WHat characteristics would make the best medium?

I'm a chemist and may be able to formulate something.

Obviously it's got to be inert (non corrosive, non-oxidizing, etc...)

It's got to be somewhat heat resistant

It's got to clean up easily (water soluble)

About physical properties, should it be a gel? should it foam? should it be highly viscous?

What characteristics would make the best suppressor filler?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Happy Medium

1. I would think that the most important consideration is the Specific Heat of the substance (How much heat it can absorb- but you knew that) because this is how it works. The Medium absorbs heat thus cooling the gases thus allowing a can with smaller internal volume to work. Water some of the best specific heat but I think that most of that comes from the "Latent Heat of Vaporization". When water is converted to steam it takes a tremendous amount of heat (970 btu/ pound of water). So it seems that in my suppressor, water is the quietest medium but only for a few shots.

2. Definately non corrosive. My Beretta is stainless and the can is titanium so I am not worried about water but would worry about anything corrosive.

3. Nonflammable- obvious reasons

4. I think that somewhat vicous would be a plus but I do have a problem with Lithium grease being too thick. Sometimes, the grease partially blocks the path through the can and the bullet will tumble. So I guess maybe thick enough to have some staying power (so it doesn't blow back in your face) but thin enough that it will drain out of the way of the bullet path after firing. -If there is such an inbetween.

5. Easily applicable- You gotta get it inside the can somehow. I have rigged up a 50CC syringe attached to stiff plastic tubing with the end plugged and two holes drilled 180 degrees from eachother. I put it in, squeeze and rotate 1 half turn, and then move to the next baffle. Takes about 15 seconds to charge the can in first three baffles (as recommended by AWC). So back to viscosity- too thick=hard to apply too thin=goes everywhere.

Best that I can do at 9AM. Did I leave anything out?? Have been experimenting with KY gel and it seems to be working pretty well. Slippery as hell though and it is more fun to use it for its intended purpose:D I think that it has a high content of water which would explain its cooling capacity (specific heat).

disclaimer- I am a fireman not a scientist. If I have misunderstood any of the previous theories feel free to berate me and call me a buffoon.

Damian
 

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I don't have much experiance in the area of supressor technology but it sounds like maybe some of the thermal compounds that are used between CPU's and heatsinks might work pretty good for your use. Course they will cause the outside of your supressor to get hot faster.
 

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Silicones

I think they use organo-silicone compounds for electronics cooling.

I'm trying to find something with a high boiling point to keep it from smoking too much or drying out too quickly.

Actually, that's what a gel is good for, it resists the exposure of too much of its surface area during firing, which minimizes the amount that can be vaporized. The drawback is that it also reduce its effectiveness as a coolant.

We may be looking for some materia prima mystery fluid.

I'm going to experiment with mixtures of propylene glycol and water, perhaps adding a polymer like carbopol. It's essentially KY jelly, but I think KY is made with quantities of MEA or DEA that are potentially corrosive to metals.

Silicones are great because they are so inert.

It will take some experimentation, but I'm sure something is out there...
 

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I'm following this with GREAT interest - I have an AWC Warp 3
on a Beretta 21a. It works well, BUT - the Beretta has NO
extractor, works on real blow-back, and dumps great amounts
of whatever medium back into the gun. It"s enough to make me
regret putting it on that gun. Enough that I've thought of getting
some other gun threaded, or selling the W-3.

Anyone with thoughts on this???
 

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Thermal compounds

Most standard thermal compound consists of silicone. However, silicone doesn't have a high thermal conductivity, so they also contains zinc oxide to improve this. The zinc oxide also explains its white colour.

High-End thermal compounds are usually silicone-free, and use aluminum oxide or nitride or other substances instead of Zinc Oxide.

Non silicone based thermal pastes creep less according to the manufactors. They also resist drying out.
 

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Artifex said:
WHat characteristics would make the best medium?
I'm a chemist and may be able to formulate something.
Obviously it's got to be inert (non corrosive, non-oxidizing, etc...)
It's got to be somewhat heat resistant
It's got to clean up easily (water soluble)
About physical properties, should it be a gel? should it foam? should it be highly viscous?
What characteristics would make the best suppressor filler?
The whole point to grease in wet cans is because of the high temps required to vaporize it; ergo, it lasts longer than water.

But, nothing beats water for specific heat; that's why they still use it in radiators, despite its corrosion potential! ;-)

You could probably do best coolant-wise w/ some variation of antifreeze/water mix. But don't forget, PEG fumes are toxic, just like the liquid. Maybe not a good idea, if the shooter is going to wind up breathing the blow-off. As for other issues like viscosity; that's good, it keeps the stuff from running willy-nilly out the end of the can if you don't keep it horizontal. Dunno about the foam angle; I think that would need some empirical testing as to an "ease of application/ effects on accuracy or silencing" issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
stayputablility

I forgot one thing. I would say that it could be very important that said substance be able to be stored in the suppressor for extended periods of time. I can put lith grease in my Abraxas and leave it there indefinately- In other words, it doesn't dry out. Can't do that with KY because it will eventually dry out. On that rainy day (raccoon digging through your trash-again) that you might need your suppressor, you don't want to be fiddling around with greasin it up. Just a thought.

D.
 
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