Seems that some holes are drilled through but if you don’t have a bottom tap you can’t quite thread it through so the set screw won’t have threads to follow to go right up to the sear block ,well a dog screw has a long thin tip smaller than the unthreaded portion of the hole to reach farther than the threaded potion of the set screw.
Bergara BMR Easy Trigger Mod
Bergara BMR Trigger Mod same as B14R
Only factory trigger adjustment is for the spring tension. So I just backed it off to minimum "screw in front of trigger".
There was no factory sear adjustment, but there is a pilot hole pre drilled in the back of the trigger group that conveniently lines up with the trigger bar. Drill and tap this hole 4-40 and using a long grub screw. You now have fully adjustable sear engagement. I was able to get the trigger in the +- 1# range safely with out stoning or polishing.
Only factory trigger adjustment is for the spring tension. So I just backed it off to minimum "screw in front of trigger".
There was no factory sear adjustment, but there is a pilot hole pre drilled in the back of the trigger group that conveniently lines up with the trigger bar. Drill and tap this hole 4-40 and using a long grub screw. You now have fully adjustable sear engagement. I was able to get the trigger in the +- 1# range safely with out stoning or polishing.
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OK, finally got around to doing this trigger job on my BMR Carbon... great shooting rifle at 2 and half pound trigger pull and should be even better now that I have it adjusted down to about 1 pd. 12 ounces or so... What I haven't been able to find is... is there any adjustment needed on the screw in the trigger group in front of the trigger.??? Is there any correlation between this other set screw to make the trigger adjustment any better.???
Used a 4-40 bottoming tap after drilling the hole out... came out great... Thanks again to gr8guns for sending me 2 of his extra screws...
Used a 4-40 bottoming tap after drilling the hole out... came out great... Thanks again to gr8guns for sending me 2 of his extra screws...
I have a quick question, I tried this mod tonight and noticed that after I got the trigger adjusted to approx. 1.5 Lbs. the safety wouldn't work. If the safety was off you couldn't put it back on. Once I removed the screw the safety worked correctly. I tried incrementally adjusting the screw and the safety never felt correct. Has anyone else had issues with the safety when trying this mod on a B14R. I've removed the screw for the time being because reducing the trigger weights not worth an unsafe gun.
It has been a while but it seems like there is an order to adjust things. The new screw is last in the sequence. I had an issue until I figured out there was a certain sequence but I do not recall what it is now.
I picked up a used BMR and did this trigger mod today. Before the mod the lowest I could get the trigger pull down to as from the factory was 2 lb 5 oz. After the mod it is a consistent 1 lb 3 oz on my rifle.
Many thanks to the folks who had the foresight to come up with this procedure and to the folks that shared their experience. Also shout out to gr8guns for sharing some screws. Now to get to the range ...
Many thanks to the folks who had the foresight to come up with this procedure and to the folks that shared their experience. Also shout out to gr8guns for sharing some screws. Now to get to the range ...
Ok I tried this mod on my new BMR and I'm having issues, so if someone can help me out I would appreciate it. I used a #4-40 bottom tap and it went very well tapping the hole, I ran the tap in until it felt resistance. problem is when I thread in the adjustment screw it goes in just as far and bottoms out on something and goes no further. No adjustment is available and I don't want to drill deeper as I'm afraid to damage the trigger. My screws are 1/2" long and seem excessively long once installed in the tapped hole. Is there a second wall inside the trigger that needs to be drilled and tapped? Or maybe Bergara changed their design to eliminate this mod?
If you have done it right... the set screw disappears in that hole... If it still out, you have farther to drill and tap... I found that out also... make sure you flush out all the metal shavings as much as possible... I probably overdid that... but when done... ohhhhh mama, what a better trigger...
Thank you for the reply and maybe I wasn't clear that I did no drilling, I used the hole that was originally there and tapped that hole clean through. Inside there is a 2nd wall or object stopping the set screw. Do I need to drill through that also?If you have done it right... the set screw disappears in that hole... If it still out, you have farther to drill and tap... I found that out also... make sure you flush out all the metal shavings as much as possible... I probably overdid that... but when done... ohhhhh mama, what a better trigger...
There's your problem... you need to drill that hole out... theres a secondary lip at the bottom of that hole... that is what your screw has butted up against... Drill to get that ledge out and then finish your tap work... It's so worth it...
I understand and my drill won't even fit in there, I tried. I'm going to have to get a smaller hand powered drill and give it a go or try and remove the trigger group from the receiver. But on thinking about it more, trying to drill through my newly tapped hole would most likely damage the new threads. So I'll leave it be for now and try and think about it more and see what I come up with. Thank you WFO62 for all your help it's much appreciated.There's your problem... you need to drill that hole out... theres a secondary lip at the bottom of that hole... that is what your screw has butted up against... Drill to get that ledge out and then finish your tap work... It's so worth it...
Unit 59,
Your welcome...glad I could help...
Reread this thread and the other one stickied up here at the top... there are tidbits of spec info as to the right size drill bits to use... I also ran into the same problem and was safely able to drill out that ledge and gently retapped the hole and it came out perfectly... Good luck with yours.
Your welcome...glad I could help...
Reread this thread and the other one stickied up here at the top... there are tidbits of spec info as to the right size drill bits to use... I also ran into the same problem and was safely able to drill out that ledge and gently retapped the hole and it came out perfectly... Good luck with yours.
I got it down to 1 lb 12 oz with a 3/8 button head screw I may try the 1/2 inch button head wants to bottom out on the back of the trigger at 1 lb 12 oz no creep though it definitely helped I didn't need to drill the hole perfect fit with 4-40 tap just need to go slow use oil and go in and out with the tap a bunch of times so the cut metal gets cleaned out of the tap
I fussed with mine a good bit with less than satisfactory results. The best and easiest fix is to replace it with a Jewell (not cheap, but VERY effective). 
Doug
Doug
Did a second one on my new to me B14R... came out easier than the first as i know better at what I am doing... have it down to a clean, sharp 1 lb. 6 oz... Not a huge fan of superlight triggers, yet.!!!!
I took the trigger assembly off the BMR last night and drilled and tapped the hole. That part of the job was easy. I used a standard tap and had no issues with threading the whole thing. I did hold the trigger back when drilling and tapping. So maybe that helped? Adjusting the trigger took a little monkeying around but I now have it set at about 13 oz. It's still a little inconsistent per the trigger pull gauge but holding the rifle offhand and dry firing it feels pretty consistent to me. Increasing the trigger pull weight a little before adjusting the sear engagement seemed to improve consistency some. One thing I noticed while messing around with it was tiny adjustments to the sear engagement screw make a huge difference. A 1/16" turn was a lot. I have it set now so I can wrap on the receiver with a plastic mallet, cycle the bolt fast, drop the rifle on it's butt, etc and the sear doesn't drop. I put a little blue Loctite on the threads. So hopefully the screw will stay put. I'll continue to thoroughly test at home before taking it to the range.
I was hoping to the rifle would shoot well enough that I'd put a Trigger Tech trigger (or something else) on it. First range trip I had with it was less than impressive. The addition of the sear engagement screw is a big improvement and should be a big help while doing further attempts to try and the rifle shoot
A big shout out to @gr8guns for sending me the set screws. Thank you sir!!!
I was hoping to the rifle would shoot well enough that I'd put a Trigger Tech trigger (or something else) on it. First range trip I had with it was less than impressive. The addition of the sear engagement screw is a big improvement and should be a big help while doing further attempts to try and the rifle shoot
A big shout out to @gr8guns for sending me the set screws. Thank you sir!!!
Indeed! This is frustrating, but a small price to pay for such a significantly useful mod!
One thing I noticed while messing around with it was tiny adjustments to the sear engagement screw make a huge difference. A 1/16" turn was a lot.
I would take a few or the screws if you have any left. MyI think so too ! Disconnector wear.
I finally got my flatpoint .5 inch 4-40 screws yesterday, and The trigger adjusted down to sub 4 oz. I brought it up to 10 oz. as that is what felt comfortable to me for the bench. The flat point screws look like they might be less wear on the disconnector to me too. They have a little larger area of contact.
Now, to get this puppy on the bench........I have 96 screws left over......
begara bmr is on the way
I think the pilot hole varies
The hole already in the triggers I have were a little loose to start, and the number 4 tap was a snug fit after the loose starting point. The set screws were just snug enough fit into the threads that I didn't feel the need to put any locking compound on them. I figured it would be better to leave them mobile in case I ever needed to remove them. If they felt loose, I would have put a small dot of clear fingernail polish.....something with a low strength. Toothpick dot size.
Great modificatio!
Just request screws…….
All you have to do is request screws. They are free, while I have them. Each request gets two screws, no envelope needed.
I'm happy to help. If you shooters think the price is right, good feedback would be appreciated.
If you have any screws left, I would appreciate you sending me 2. New to posting, Not sure how it all works . Working on my Begara BMR trigger. Thanks MarkRedrill?
Does the hole have to be redrilled? Thanks !
How does your BMR Shoot???? I recently purchasex one and have just started testing ammo. What have you found shoots the best????Bergara BMR Trigger Mod same as B14R
Only factory trigger adjustment is for the spring tension. So I just backed it off to minimum "screw in front of trigger".
There was no factory sear adjustment, but there is a pilot hole pre drilled in the back of the trigger group that conveniently lines up with the trigger bar. Drill and tap this hole 4-40 and using a long grub screw. You now have fully adjustable sear engagement. I was able to get the trigger in the +- 1# range safely with out stoning or polishing.
81 - 100 of 107 Posts
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