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Bedding an action

1246 Views 12 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  shoeman
After putting it off forever (skepticism mainly), I decided to bed the action of my A&B / Fajen Thumbhole sporter.

First, the gun shot decent groups before making this bedding plunge...so I thought, well leave well enough alone, since 1/2" groups at 50 were the norm (occasionally they woud open up, but every once in a while when the planets were aligned and the gods were smiling, the groups would be a little less than 1/2")

I decided to bed the action, as per the Tips and Tricks section (I used Tom's method) along with a foam forend pad.

WOW!!!! I coudn't believe it.......I took 6 targets out to the range, and to my amazement, the gun now shoots less than 1/2" with all 6 goups. Really pleased with one that actually measured a tad under 3/8 (outside to outside) with 3 shot groups.

The gun has had a trigger job that I did myself, which leads to better shot placement consistancy, and I am using a 32x simmons. Very pleased with the results......from now on.....new 10/22s coming to my home will get the following mods before they are ever fired:

1. Trigger job

2. Bedded action / barrel

Those skeptical like myself, take the chance.....you'll love the results!

Thanks to the information found on this forum....I now have a gun that I am VERY proud to own.......:D
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Same thing happended to me. I never would have tried it without this forum and Tips and Tricks. Well worth the small membership fee.
I always get a little grin when this happens!

You have to stop to consider this. Lets say the distance from the take down screw to the back if the receiver is 6" give or take a bit. Now lets say that the back of the receiver *can* move sideways ONLY .003" because of a tiny bit of slack in the fit of it to the stock. Three thousandths of an inch seems like nothing.....EXCEPT when you multiply that .003" per 6 inches out to twenty five yards. At twenty five yards, that equates to .450"....or slightly under a half inch of movement that is possible when the action moves that "insignificant amout"

Welcome to the truth, guys! :D

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That is true Antlurz....a minute amount of movement in the action is a tremendous amount of movement downrange.....this 10/22 thing is so addictive, too......already making plans for a bughole tuner to replace the foam pad.......:D
Hi. Lawboy here. You can get yourself a bughole by sending a check or M.O. for $15.95 to hightower innovations, inc., 2416 34th avenue, sacramento, ca 95822. Regards and have fun!
More Info Please

Sure would like to know more about the "Foam Forend Pad" and the "Bug Hole Tuner"
Sould like something I would be interested in... Reddman

When a heavy barrel is free-floated, the 10/22 tends to act like a teeter-totter with the one mounting screw. It becomes cantilevered, which means the tip of the barrel tends to dip down. With the barrel bedded about 3 inches from the receiver, this 3 inch point becomes the fulcrum, or pivot point for this downward dip. This puts added stress on the aluminum receiver, and just my opinion, is why the little ruger likes a little upward pressure at the forend of the stock to bring harmonics back under control.

Most rugers have a little upward force at the forend (at least the stocks I've dealt with) by use of a little "bump" at the tip, or about 1 inch from the tip. The bedding tightens up the action to prevent movement (see Antlurz post above to see how a little movement can mean a lot), and the "pad" or "tuner" is a means of applying a little upward force to bring harmonics back under control.

The disadvantage to the pad is that it becomes a "nonadjustable" item, or in other words, the amount of pressure it applies upward can not be adjusted as it is a fixed thickness. The pad will work, but the tuner is a adjustable item. Take the gun out and shoot it while tinkering with the screw, and the gun can be "tuned" to the amount of upward pressure that it likes. I'm sure that a search for "bughole tuner" on the forum here will get you a picture of one which will be better than my explanation, as well as some testimonials to their benefit.

Take a look in the "Tips and Tricks" section for bedding ideas......these guys are the experts, and their explanation is probably a lot better than mine. Hope this helps.....
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Tom's Method???

I've been giving thought to bedding my 10-22, although I haven't had the opportunity to shoot it since putting the barrel and stock on it. I'll do that first in any event. But the original post by 68ss350 mentioned using Tom's method for bedding. I've looked at all the posts in the Tips & Tricks and can't find one by 'Tom'. Can someone steer me the right way?

"Tom's Method"

Sorry about that......should have been "Ted's Method"......

I apologize for the typo......
Alternate bedding techniques?

I was reading an article on 10/22 Chevy challenge mods the other day, and the author liked to bed only a few inches if the barrel right at its junction with the receiver. Anybody ever tried this? Mine is bedded in the conventional manner with a floated bull barrel and shoots very well ([email protected]) but I might try this technique on another I'm building.

Alright, you all have me convinced to try this bedding thing. I see a lot of write-ups but I have always been an image based learner and a text description is not always enough for me to grasp exactly what is described. I did figure out the BX-1 magazine takedown and rebuild from the text description given so I'm not completely lost. LOL

Are there any pictures on this site that show the before and after of a bedding job?

Am I trying to support the entire action from bow to stern in it's own custom fitted suit? Or just a portion of it?

Is bedding possible on any stock, or is it only possible with a wood stock that can be carved or filled? I have a Hogue plastic and rubber overmold stock with a tiny foam patch on the end supporting the barrel is that free floating? In other words do I presently have a good starting point or should I look into getting a laminated stock instead?


Re: "Tom's Method"

68ss350 said:
Sorry about that......should have been "Ted's Method"......

I apologize for the typo......
Shoeman....That is the way I bed the barrels on my 10-22.....I make sure the rear of the receiver is fixed in the stock with a bedded abutment that fits in the groove in the action rear and then bedd the barrel for 2 to 3 inches at the start of the barrel at the action....I also made a steel pillar that takes the place of the escheon to fit the action screw in the stock...this becomes a steel pillar glassed into the wood of the stock with the glass support area around the pillar and the first part of the barrel....this gives a positive stop for the action screw and good support area to the barrel..the rear action bedding keeps the action from shifting but isn't fitted so tightly that the barrel bedding area can't self-center the barrel and let the steel pillar around the action screw support and position the action/barrel joint area....works welll in wooden stocks and I can't see why it wouldn't work in a syn. stock also....I haven't had good luck with a pressure pad in the end of the channel in my 10/22's but it has worked in other type guns...good luck and good shooting!!!!
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Bed the Barrel and the back

Good info! I wish I could remember the book I saw this in. I may have to go back to Borders and pick it up. Anyhoo... the authors contention was that the reciever on the 10/22 is not strong enough to properly support a free floated heavy barrel. But in my mind I wonder if maybe a fully bedded reciever as commonly done is stiffened up enough to do a proper job. Experimentation will tell I guess. It would be easy enough to convert my fully bedded rifle to this alternative method, maybe I'll give it a try.

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