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Barrell relining

416 Views 5 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  the highlander
Been a gun nut all my life, and somehow I haven't gotten a Brownell's catalog until now...wow!!! If you don't have one you've gotta get one!

They've got 22 liners purty cheap. And it looks like they have everything you'd need to install them too. Anyone ever relined a 22 barrel? Is it worth doing? Can it be done by a non Gunsmith? I don't expect to get match grade performance...but I find this fascinating and would like to learn to do it.

Thanks in advance
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Yes I have done them. Have also re-lined larger calibers as well. The only part that is difficult for an individual is drilling out the barrel. It can be done with a deep drill bit, or a bit with an extension welded or silver soldered on, and I have seen it done with a drill press before.

However, the right way to do it is on a lathe. If you know of a good machine shop in your area, and you're capable of removing the old barrel from the action, you should be able to get this done for minimal expense. The new liner, especially for a rimfire, can be put in with JB Weld. I've even lined 45-70's and high-pressure, long-range muzzleloaders with JB and the stuff does hold up!

The quality of the current crop of liners is very good. The liners made by Redman and Behnke are particularly good. I have friends who have re-lined valuable match and gallery single shots (Stevens, Ballards, etc.) with them and still do very well in matches.

Once the liner is in and cured, you'll need to trim to length (don't trim beforehand!), crown and chamber. Brownell's has the crowning tools and reamers if you're going to do enough of them to justify the cost. If you're not, then there are shops that rent out reamers and anyone with a lathe can cut a crown.

For chambering, a lathe is the best way to go, but you can cut a 22 chamber by hand with a tap handle and tap oil. Just take it very slowly and concentrate on alignment with the bore and no burrs.

Bill
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I reline several guns a year for customers and use accraglass. It can be blued (I have never used JB Weld so I'm not sure about that) without harm. If you do not have the proper tools, have it done unless you plan to do several. In the event you go the welded rod route, take your time for if you twist off the drill in the bore......well.....the bbl will prob go in the trash. If you figure the cost of everything you need (if you have to purchase it) you will find that it will be much less expensive to have it done. Remember the extractor cut-out, if needed. It is not a job to be taken lightly. Good luck,
Agree completely xxring. I have lined several, including some where I've turned a Douglas blank down into the liner. I had so much trouble with welded extensions that I found it easier to use the right size deep drill on the lathe and reverse the barrel if I had to. Obviously paying very close attention to run out and straightness!

You should give the JB a try, actually takes Oxpho Blue better than Acraglas. I've also been able to use it to build up parts where the tolerances were a little "generous". I'm fortunate in that I have a very good machinist friend who has also re-barreled, re-lined an re-built probably a few hundred Rolling Blocks, Stevens', Martini's and Trapdoors. What little I know about lathe work I've learned from him over the years.

I don't consider myself an expert by any means, but I've built a few to shoot, done a few more for friends, and shot against a number of them. Done right, in any caliber, a re-line will shoot with the best of them.

Bill
highlander

When I reline, I use balck dye in the glass so it matches the blue job. If I need to, I can drop it in some hot tanks and blue it without worry. Can this be done with JB Weld? I have never tried it. Most times I put 90 degree target crown in the bbl and cut it back to the glass, then it is never seen. Best,
Have never tried putting it in a hot tank, but cold blue works great. I also cut a recessed crown to help conceal the line.
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