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Nope, the good ones are lapped and polished.
I think they plug the barrels when they blue them.
 

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There are silicone plugs designed for such purposes, to be used on particularly critical parts such as ultra-high vacuum gear, medical tools, aerospace parts, etc. Same stuff as those cool (ha!) new cooking gloves, the ones where you can grab a french fry right out of the boiling grease.
To relieve the pressure you could put a pinhole in them. But the temp is not really that high, so the plugs would likely just push out a little.

I don't know how long the parts stay in the tank when bluing, but if it's not more than a few minutes, a wad of paper would work fine.

I'm interested in rebluing an old barrel; I filed off the front sight and ring and smoothed it out. Looks good, except now it's all shiny. If I could hot blue it myself I might consider it over the cold, but I haven't found any place that lists the details of hot bluing. Any suggestions?

c.
 

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Blueing is so thin, You would be alright if you didn't plug the bore, might make it shoot better? But parkerizing is a whole nother story.....For a home hot blue, all you need is some Ammonia Nitrate, Red Devil Lye, water, heat source, enamel pot, thermometer, and safty gear.

I'm going to try this method on a 1911 in the next month or 2.
http://www.geocities.com/kemays/formula.htm
 

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You can't plug the bore when doing hot bluing. The plugs would blow out and throw hot, caustic bluing solution all over the place, including anyone standing nearby. The process really just mildly etches the surface of the metal, no damage that a few rounds through the barrel won't smooth out.
 
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