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Barrel loose in frame - How to fix?

7359 Views 19 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  Theo98
The barrel has some play in the frame of my MkII.

What's the best way to tighten the barrel fit in the frame?
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The barrel has some play in the frame of my MkII.

What's the best way to tighten the barrel fit in the frame?
Ruger flattens the front lug pocket in the barrel, I have done this on several, it works great, just go slow & test fit before peening it more

do a seach for loose barrel here, or the 22/45 section, there is a photo of where to peen the barrel
 

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There are those who squeeze the frame in a vice. DON'T DO IT!!
Mine is tight. I saw one fellow wo used a piece of heavy duty aluminum foil to fix his.

Ripsaw
No, you're right. There just seems to be something wrong with squeezing a frame in a vise. :eek: I like the shim idea and have used that method twice. Seems to hold up OK. :bthumb:
 

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I can't seem to find it in a search. Can someone post the link please?

My 10" barrel is loose. Was going to try a piece of soda can as a wedge but would like to read other methods.
You can tighten the receiver/frame fit on the MK I, MK II and MKIII Rugers to get rid of the looseness using a good vise and and a little patience. Using a vise to tighten frame/slides/receivers etc. in a variety of guns is a time honored 'smithing technique Here is how to do it on the Ruger MK's.

1. Remove the barrel/receiver from the frame. You do not have to remove any of the internal components in the frame (trigger, disconnector , hammer etc.)
2. Pad the jaws of a good vise with brass or lead so you don't mark the frame.
3. Place the frame in the vise, pointing down as if you were shooting the floor, with the jaw surfaces parallel to the side of the frame.
4. Position the jaws so they will squeeze the flared flanges at the top of the frame in the area between the trigger pivot pin and the front of the trigger guard. The trigger pin should be visible above the jaws of the vise. What we are trying to do is reduce the diameter of the curved area that the receiver sits in. This will cause the receiver to sit higher in relation to the latch boss in the frame which causes the two surfaces to mate more perfectly.
5. Snug up the vise and with a magic marker make an index mark on the vise body and vise handle so that you know where you started.
6. Turn the handle on the vise about 15-20 degrees. (You don't need a protractor to measure the angles. If you envision a 45 degree angle and divide that in thirds you'll have a "close enough" estimation of 15-20 degrees.) Make a new index mark, remove the frame from the vise and try putting the barrel/receiver back on. You should have to lightly drive the receiver/barrel onto the frame with a wooden or leather mallet when the proper fit is achieved.
7. If the receiver /frame fit is still loose (doesn't require force to put it on and off the frame) put the frame back in the vise, tighten another 15-20 degrees from the last index mark, make a new index mark, and try the fit again. Repeat step 7 until you achieve the desired fit.

CAUTION
1.Go slowly - if you over tighten you won't be able to get the receiver on the frame. Go only as tight as you need to get rid of the looseness.
2. DO NOT squeeze any area other than that which is described. !!!! The front of the trigger guard and the latch boss maintain the internal frame dimensions allowing only the lips/flanges that the receiver sits on to compress. If you squeeze anywhere else the whole sheet metal frame will compress and cause all sorts of dimensional clearance problems for your internal working parts!!!
 

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CAUTION
1.Go slowly - if you over tighten you won't be able to get the receiver on the frame. Go only as tight as you need to get rid of the looseness.
2. DO NOT squeeze any area other than that which is described. !!!! The front of the trigger guard and the latch boss maintain the internal frame dimensions allowing only the lips/flanges that the receiver sits on to compress. If you squeeze anywhere else the whole sheet metal frame will compress and cause all sorts of dimensional clearance problems for your internal working parts!!!
And, therein lies the danger involved with that procedure and its recommendation to someone that may be new to the method. :eek: Pinching 1911 "slides" in a vise to get them into a tighter ride along 1911 frame rails is "indeed" a tried and true method, but for a Ruger Mark frame that's been welded together after being folded (now don't go beserk and tell me that the weld is strong, I already know it is) I think the shim or blast shield is a safer and a less, "heart-in-the-throat" method than one that COULD go totally wrong. :eek:
 

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I have used the method that Jbar describes with complete success. I measured the outside of the "rails" on a Ruger grip frame and squeezed then allowed the metal to spring back and squeezed again until I had a .005 reduction . That was usually enough to tighten up even the loosest of my Ruger MK-S . It seems like the 10" barrel guns loosened up more than the shorter barrels but that could have just been coincidence.
Caution and slow are key words that happen just before disaster if they are not heeded. Your results would be a result of your care and caution in the job.
 

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I tighten mine with a rubber mallet and a hardwood board to rest the frame on.

Tighten the front (toward muzzle) of the frame first and the rear of the frame if needed. You can get them as tght as you want (maybe tighter than you want if you are not careful).

Use a sharp wrist snap with the hammer and not like you are using a sledge hammer and trying to smash the frame.
 

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The barrel has some play in the frame of my MkII.

What's the best way to tighten the barrel fit in the frame?
My "New" MkII SS 6" Standard Upper/Lower fit was as expected...Very Tight. Over the first 500 rounds, it has given a little to be a -comfortable tight fit-, but one that a slight wrap on the end of the receiver will release without issue!

However, my 22 yr old MkII SS Slab sided upper fits too loose on this new lower. To remedy for a snugger fit, I cut pieces of .002.", .003" and .004" brass sheet bar stock I had and experimented with fitting to the receivers lug area cavity. I basically got a near perfect fit with just the .002" stock (for my gear)...snug, no looseness, with minimal rolling side play, but still being able to hand fit to the lower and remove easily!! :t

Although this is a resurfaced old thread, thought another solution (with pics) might help others...:cool:

Ted
 

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To remedy for a snugger fit, I cut pieces of .002.", .003" and .004" brass sheet bar stock I had and experimented with fitting to the receivers lug area cavity. I basically got a near perfect fit with just the .002" stock (for my gear)...snug, no looseness, with minimal rolling side play, but still being able to hand fit to the lower and remove easily!! :t

Although this is a resurfaced old thread, thought another solution (with pics) might help others...:cool:

Ted
Great pics. So basically what you did is take a trigger blast shield and cut off the shield portion?
 
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