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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Guys,

Why don't we incorporate a spring plunger for the trigger return spring AND
o.t function ? The body of the plunger housing could act as a trigger stop
and the plunger for the return spring function.
I.E.
McMaster-Carr has them for $3.08-$5.08 depending on round steel, delrin or
phenolic nose.
Catalogue 108, pg.2382 I have used this catalogue as the solution of a
myriad of my "engineered contraptions". Maybe someone has tried this
already. Hope this helps.
 

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Someone here at rfc did just that. I've been looking for the post myself.
All I remember is that they gave the befor and after major and minor dementions that worked for them. I'll let you know if I find it or figure it out myself. I occasionly have free time in where I work thats when the tool room calls me..... :angel: :t
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Round Nose Spring Plungers

If you use the link of the last poster the page # should be 2416.
As for the size and nose type that is your choice. Must be a different catalogue in use.
 

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Anyone know the tap size for the trigger return plunger hole for this mod? 10-32 sounds about right but I don't have my trigger group here to measure. I think the hole is drilled out #21 (.1590) at the factory if I remember right. ttshooter, you out there?
 

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Great idea!

WOW..what timing I just spent last night installing a set screw in my stock trigger for the O.T.- I don't have mine handy for a measurement...but please let's pursue this one...looks like it will work to me if there enough return spring action before in bottoms out...my gripe is that goofy hole is drilled at an angle...anyone else notice...bugs the S### out of me! The plunger is totally at an angle and sits goofy. How can you get to that hole and overbore it so it's straight before you order and install one of these "new plunger stops"...Any ideas???
Chaser :confused:
 

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Chaser,

It needs to be drilled at an angle to clear the front of the trigger guard unless, of course, you want to drill through the front of the guard. The angle doesn't seem to impede anything accept for the fact that the plunger slides against the trigger a bit upon depression. This can intoduce some "grit" into the feel of the trigger if things aren't polished and lubed sufficiently.

However, you can get these spring plungers with a delrin plunger that should have a very low coefficient of friction and very good wear resistance. They should slide pretty smoothly over the trigger. I did a search on mscdirect.com and found some delrin-nosed, stainless-bodied, 10-32 tpi units with .125" of travel and end forces ranging between .75 to 2.9 lbs. They should fit the bill assuming that 10-32 is the correct thread pitch.
 

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The one person that did this here just put a small rod inside the spring and trimmed it till it was the right length. Started out too long, tried it. Cut it, tried it. Cut it, tried it. Took awhile but when he was done it was simple, can't break, worked well.
 

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Conceivably with one of these spring plungers threaded into the trigger return plunger hole you would simply turn it in or out like a set screw to adjust the overtravel and the integral plunger would act as the trigger return.

Here's a picture and the general perameters:
Spring Plunger
 

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The 2.7 pounds in the description, is that what is required to move the plunger? I see down farther it shows 1.3 pounds end force.

This would add a considerable amout to your trigger pull. At least that is the way I see it.
 

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That was just an example. They have other models that have end forces down to 0.3 lbs. Do a search for "trigger plunger" and it will allow you to choose your specifications.

I don't know how much force is needed to re-engage the trigger. If anyone were to try this mod, maybe order several different versions with different forces to determine what the lightest is that you can get away with.
 
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