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Shoot as is or try to mount an ARCA rail?

  • Shoot it as is you fool!

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ARCA Rail

1096 Views 8 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  NETim
One of my favorite pastimes, other than shooting, is taking something simple and making it more complex. :) So, here I go!

I have a Bergara BXR (10/22-omatic clone). No rail on the factory stock. I am going to give NRL22 a whirl this year. The factory stock is plastic and surprisingly, it flexes some. Ahem. I don't know that a guy could properly use a sling on it and still hope for the stock not to flex and make contact with the barrel.

I am wondering if adding an ARCA rail might help mitigate this flex some while giving the benefits of a rail.

Of course, I would probably be money ahead to just pick up a KRG Bravo and fit the BXR to it. I'm still in the very early stages of setting up for NRL and have never shot a match. I think I'll enjoy it but who knows? I might suck really, really bad and get laughed off the range. :D

After all my reading and YT video viewing, from what I can gather, the ARCA rail essentially adds the ability to move the bipod forward and aft (or remove it) rapidly to adapt to the stage props. And provide for a place to mount a flat plate if I want to go that route as well. And I guess they look cool too.

I'm not sure at this point in time just how serious I am about NRL22. Just going to dip my toes in the pool.

Heck, I haven't even bought a bag yet!

I have a good Harris w/Podlock on it which naturally can attach to the sling swivel mount on the stock.

I probably should just shoot it as is, see how I like this and go from there.

I hate to admit it, but the weak link in the system is going to be me. :) I've shot enough registered trap and USPSA to realize that you can't buy skill.

Thanks!
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I don’t know why the “add a rail” poll choice has the “and a prayer” modifier, but I’d add a rail.

If you want to upgrade into a new stock/chassis which will incorporate a rail, all the better, but obviously that choice is more expensive. Know where is the balance point of your rifle so you know where you can set your rifle on the bag and short bipod, versus needing to hold down on the buttstock to prevent tipping, but otherwise, adaptability of an ARCA rail is all upside.
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I don’t know why the “add a rail” poll choice has the “and a prayer” modifier, but I’d add a rail.

If you want to upgrade into a new stock/chassis which will incorporate a rail, all the better, but obviously that choice is more expensive. Know where is the balance point of your rifle so you know where you can set your rifle on the bag and short bipod, versus needing to hold down on the buttstock to prevent tipping, but otherwise, adaptability of an ARCA rail is all upside.
Currently with the scope and bipod mounted, it balances right at the action screw, just forward of the magwell.

"and a prayer" was an attempt at humor. ;)
Bag before rail, but the rail is cheap and helps both balance and how it'll sit on the bag.
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Currently with the scope and bipod mounted, it balances right at the action screw, just forward of the magwell.
For positional shooting like NRL, you will want your balance point to move forward at least 3-4 inches. I’d prefer even more. You want the rifle to be a little muzzle heavy when balanced on your barricade bag, which usually spans between the action screw and forward about 6-8”. So you need the center of balance on your rifle to be slightly in front of the center of your bag, hence ~4-5” forward of the action screw in most R700 clones.
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Firstly, go to a match with your rifle! You will NOT get laughed at. (I personally try not to have any "humiliation" stages in a match, but the humiliation is internal - no one makes jokes in anything but fun.) Good folks, almost all willing to help newbies.
FYI - really low cost arca rails can be purchased online. This is a photography product with many many online vendors. (They are only expensive if you buy the shooting market versions.) The 300mm arca rail on my 10/22 cost $13 including shipping. Cheap arca rail clamps are also available, about $10 each. I use my arca rail, which is mounted with the back end just in front of the action screw - so it sticks out in front (for stages with small shooting holes), for bipod attachment, as well as two different front bags (large and small). I also have lead sheets underneath the rail for balance, and it balances perfectly with bags clamped at the rear of the rail. I'll try to post an image later today.
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Firstly, go to a match with your rifle! You will NOT get laughed at. (I personally try not to have any "humiliation" stages in a match, but the humiliation is internal - no one makes jokes in anything but fun.) Good folks, almost all willing to help newbies.
FYI - really low cost arca rails can be purchased online. This is a photography product with many many online vendors. (They are only expensive if you buy the shooting market versions.) The 300mm arca rail on my 10/22 cost $13 including shipping. Cheap arca rail clamps are also available, about $10 each. I use my arca rail, which is mounted with the back end just in front of the action screw - so it sticks out in front (for stages with small shooting holes), for bipod attachment, as well as two different front bags (large and small). I also have lead sheets underneath the rail for balance, and it balances perfectly with bags clamped at the rear of the rail. I'll try to post an image later today.
How did you bolt the rail to the BXR stock?
I have laminate stock - I just used SS screws. I see no reason why you cannot simply screw or bolt a rail onto a BXR stock (remove the swivel stud).
How did you bolt the rail to the BXR stock?
I used two #10-24 SS panhead screws (3/4" long) with a washer under the screw head, a fender washer on the screw inside the stock and an aircraft nut (nylon locking insert) to top it off. I removed the sling stud, which turned out to be a #10 sheet metal screw thread. I replaced the sling stud with a stainless 3/4" sheet metal screw.

I used my Dremel and a sanding drum to rout out the reinforcing ribs inside the foreend in two places to make room for the fender washers. I finished up that job with a burr bit to remove any traces of the rib so the washer would fit flush and even on the foreend interior. The BXR foreend is flat enough inside that the fender washer makes good contact. I thought originally I'd have to build up a layer of epoxy inside to make a relatively flat mounting surface but it turns out that it's not necessary. At least in my opinion. :)

I drilled two holes in the foreend for the mounting hardware. The original hole for the sling swivel stud got the sheet metal screw up front, so three screws total were used to mount the ARCA rail. I won't miss the sling swivel stud as the BXR has the QD cups for a sling already installed.

I used a cheap Amazon ARCA rail for the job. My AccuTac bipod and ColeTac BBS clamp on and work fine with it. I'll get a whiz bang super neato name brand ARCA rail on it once I get a sponsorship due to my incredible shooting. Ahem.
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