Don't worry. The first shooting you will do is to confirm your sight settings and how to adjust them if they are off.
I would try to zero your sights before the event, if possible. If you have not done this before, it can be a bit time consuming. I would certainly not assume that your sights will be zeroed when you get the rifle unless your smith has a bore sighter and you ask to have this done.
The Tech Sights utilize an AR15/M16 type front sight post which is adjustable for elevation. The front sight post screws down into the sight body and is spring loaded. To adjust the post up and down, you need to depress a small detent at the rear of the post and turn it. Some sight posts adjust by quarter turns and some by 1/5th turns. I believe all the Tech Sight fronts use the 5 notch posts instead of the 4 notch posts. Although you can use something small to push down on the detent while you rotate the post, it helps to have the front sight adjustment tool which fits into the notches on the front sight post, depresses the detent, and allows you to rotate it. If you did not buy this with the sights, you can find this type of tools pretty cheap on ebay or Amazon. Some tools are set up for the 4 notch sight posts on one end, and 5 notch posts on the other end.
The Tech Sight rear sights are either a dual aperture flip up style with two different aperture holes, or a single aperture style. The TS 100 dual aperture sight is adjustable for windage, but not elevation. With the TS 100 elevation adjustments are done at the front sight. The TS 200 is adjustable for elevation. Both are adjustable for windage (left or right adjustment). Again, it helps to have the special Tech Sight tool for adjustments.
Since the Appleseed rimfire events are typically shot at 25 meters, you would like to zero your sights for that distance. Try to find a range with sufficient distance where you can shoot from rest, with your rifle stabilized on bags or rests of some type. Use a big target to begin with so that you can spot your initial hits if your sights are way off. Shoot an initial group of 3-5 rounds trying to maintain exactly the same point of aim for each shot. Measure the center of this group and determine how many inches above or below, and how many inches left or right of the aiming point the group fell.
When adjusting sights, the term "minute of angle" or "minute of arc" (MOA) is typically used. An angle of arc is divided into 60 minutes. If you vary the angle of the bore of your rifle by 1/60th of a degree in any direction, you will move the point of impact on your target by one MOA. This happens to be very close to a 1 inch change in where you hit a target at 100 yards. Conversely, if you adjust your sights by one MOA, this will transpose to a movement of one inch in your group at 100 yards. But if you are shooting at 25 yards, an adjustment of one MOA will move the group only one quarter inch.
Tech Sights claims that for a Ruger 10/22 each click adjustment will result in a transposition of 7/8 MOA for a 18 1/2" barrel. It might be slightly less for a 20" barrel. This means that if you are shooting at 25 meters each click of sight adjustment will move your groups by roughly 1/4". So if your groups were 2 1/2" off the center of the bull, you would need to adjust your sight(s) by roughly 10 clicks. The windage can only be adjusted at the rear sight (unless you wanted to drift the front sight in its dovetail). The elevation can be adjusted at either the front sight, the rear sight, or a combination of both.
The important thing to remember is that you move the rear sight in the direction you want your group to move on the target. So if you are hitting right and low you want to adjust your rear sight upward and to the left. Conversely, the front sight moves in the opposite direction to where you want your groups to go. So if you are hitting low, you adjust the front sight down by screwing the front sight post down into the sight body (clockwise) and if you are hitting high you adjust the front post up by unscrewing it (counter-clockwise) from the front sight body.
Once you have zeroed the front sight by shooting from rest, you might need to make some further fine adjustments. Appleseed emphasizes the use of a sling to stabilize the rifle. The use of a tight sling will often result in your point of impact moving down a bit, so you may need to compensate. 22 caliber long rifle projectiles are pretty easily affected by crosswinds, so if there is a crosswind at your event, you may need to make a windage adjustment.
+1 for both of these posts. That is almost exactly what I did with my new-to-me 10/22 DSP. I added the TSR200 Tech Sights before my first Appleseed, didn't feel I needed the dual aperture of the TSR100. I didn't have enough time to try a lot of ammos though, only 3. Fortunately the Federal Champion #510 stuff worked well enough to get Rifleman.At my first Appleseed we were offered no time to adjust sights. Things moved very fast. It was frustrating for those that were not prepared to shoot when they arrived. I would suggest purchasing at least half a dozen types of 22lr and go to the range to sight in and see which type/velocity your rifle likes then bring that. Have everything sorted before you arrive proper sling, proper ammo, sighted in, elbow pads and cheek rest for sight alignment. Things will come easier if you aren't playing catch up.
Unfortunately that will not work. Its a .920" barrel at the receiver and tapers something like .720" at the muzzle. I emailed tech sights specifically asking if I could get a custom version of this piece. They said they did not offer one and to have a gunsmith make a dovetail.Save yourself the gunsmith bill and buy this for fifteen bucks:
If at all possible, arrive with the gun READY TO GO... If you have a friend that can help you sight it in beforehand, by all means, take advantage.Don't worry if you haven't zeroed your sights before the event. At every Appleseed I teach we reserve a section of Saturday morning for instruction in sight adjustment, and the following couple of 5-round stages for refinement/confirmation that your sights are on target.
Most of Saturday's shooting is done "for group" rather than for score. If you can shoot a tight group in the 5-round instructional stages, you will easily adjust your sights during the zeroing stage to put that group dead-on. But if you're shooting fist-size groups, the sights are not your problem.
Ingenious idea using the anti-fatigue mats for a shooting mat! Any concern for a more stout shooter separating the panels when moving excessively (dropping to prone quickly, etc.) ?You are going to need a shooting mat or pad. You can easily shell out over $100 for a really nice one. Or you can go to Harbor Freight and buy a couple of packs of their "anti-stress foam mat" that comes in packages of four 2'x2' panels that fit together like a jigsaw puzzle. Six panels makes a nice 4'x6' mat. This sells for less than $10 for four panels and seems to be on sale for about half that every other week or so.
This may be a really dumb question, but why don't you just slap a scope on your rifle instead of going through the trouble and expense of having it milled?Hi all,
My 10/22 LVT and tech sights are on their way now. Tech sights do not naturally fit on the LVT's tapered bull barrel, so I will have a gunsmith mill a dovetail by the muzzle. I have no idea whether the rifle will be sighted in when I get the gun back.
The only dumb question is the one you don't ask.This may be a really dumb question,
Tech sights are $60, milling the barrel is $40. From what I understand that is cheaper than a decent scope + rings for a 10/22. More importantly, I want to learn to shoot well with iron sights. I have nothing against scopes, I will probably get one in the future, but its just not want I wanted to start.but why don't you just slap a scope on your rifle instead of going through the trouble and expense of having it milled?
A fair question. I chose the LVT because it was supposed to have superior out of the box accuracy than the carbine, and it is well regarded in a lot of RFC posts I've seen. Plus it came with swivels for a sling and I liked the stock better. It was basically the same price as the deluxe sporter. I also wanted a stainless barrel for better corrosion resistance. Ultimately I decided what I wanted was the LVT with tech sights and not the carbine with tech sights.As another way to go, factory 10/22 barrels are taken off and sold basically new all the time as people do fancypants builds and offload their OEM stuff. There are two standard barrels on gunbroker right now for like $60 each. That has to be easier than getting a gunsmith involved.
Appleseed is 25 yards, so you don't need expensive ammo. Mid grade is just fine, and RELIABILITY is king. Stay away from bulk Federal, Winchester and Remington. CCI is top notch when it comes to not jamming, and CCI Standard Velocity is an excellent choice for this event. I have found it to be very reliable. I've also found TAC-22 to be very reliable. It's just greasy, and can be kind of slippery to load into Ruger magazines. I have no problem, but my 12 year old likes the less slippery CCI better. lol You'll need at least two mags. You can buy 3-paks off ebay for just over $30.I kind of have my heart set on CCI SV since its made in the US and everyone likes it. However I recognize that all rifles are different, and you really need to try a lot to see what will work best. I'll try to get a friend to the range, but I might post in the local meetups forum and see if anyone in my area would be willing to help.
This was the advice I got for dry firing "by the numbers" for Appleseed:Pretty much what she said....
CCI standard velocity ammo will shoot fine
Zero your rifle before hand
Become familiar with your weapon
Do lots and lots of dry firing
Dry firing "by the numbers" is basically getting into position, establishing your NPOA (natural point of aim), and consciously and methodically going through all six steps of firing the shot:
- Sight Alignment
- Sight Picture
- Respiratory Pause (at the bottom of your natural breath, not "halfway")
- Focus your eye on the front sight
- Focus your mind on keeping the sights aligned with the target
- Squeeze the Trigger
- Follow through
- Hold the trigger to the rear (and when you release, only move your finger far enough forward to reset the trigger)
- Call the shot (where were the sights when the shot broke?)
It's a mental exercise to start doing all those things subconsciously to make it a natural part of how you shoot.