Alternate way to anchor the action to the stock
I am having trouble finding a thread that told how to replace one of the trigger guard pins with a crossbolt to help anchor the action to the stock. As I recall yoiu had to burn thru the stock from the inside with an allen wrench to get the alignment correct. Anyone know remember it?
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I am looking for this too. If I find it I will paste a link in here.
Paul
Paul
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welllllllllll
i have a 96 ruger and i did this and am amazed at how well it works and i only did one pin. i went to diamond screws and got a inch and 5/8ths chicago stainless screw and i measured where the hole went and used the smallest drill bit i could find and drill my hole thru the wood, then enlarged it to fit and i happened to hit it correctly. . i did not have to drill the hole in the action larger. i see no reason why u could not use a wooden dowel instead of a pin cause there is not pressure on the pin.
i don't remember who it was that first told on here about this trick.
david
i have a 96 ruger and i did this and am amazed at how well it works and i only did one pin. i went to diamond screws and got a inch and 5/8ths chicago stainless screw and i measured where the hole went and used the smallest drill bit i could find and drill my hole thru the wood, then enlarged it to fit and i happened to hit it correctly. . i did not have to drill the hole in the action larger. i see no reason why u could not use a wooden dowel instead of a pin cause there is not pressure on the pin.
i don't remember who it was that first told on here about this trick.
david
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Slight variation
I'm working on a variation, kinda a hybrid of this method, or a combination of ideas from that thread, one step at a time, then testing each change......
Pillar bed as Cnrtyboy stated, then added a perch out of aluminum 1/8" plate above the pillar about 3/4"X1", and filed the receiver surface flat to mate to it. The plate is bedded in by dremeling out this section to get the right height, then epoxy-ing it into permanent position, and using a nut on the takedown bolt, is held tightened together for 24 hours. Then, I looked at the crossbolt method, and decided to try cross-bolting only the rear pin hole, with slight downward pressure, but use a Kidd pin in the front receiver pin hole. This triangulates the pressure points both front and rear while stabilizing side to side at the same time. I have no idea if it is any better or not, haven't tested it yet with the crossbolt in place, but I think it will be every bit as successful, and a much easier installation. The Kidd pin holds my group up with tighter tolerances to the bolt, and stabilizes the front of the group while helping the action to be more consistent by the bolt/firing pin striking better/more consistently. After testing that change, it'll be onto bedding the front of the barrel as per Countryboy in that post, and removing the pad up front, all in a one step fashion with testing between each change, and good notes, so I can document what's happening. :t When Ted says its better than Glass bedding, I listen. :t
I got enough threaded crossbolts and countersink washers to do ten like this if anybody wants a set-up to try and avoid exhorbitant shipping costs on a small order. :t I picked out stuff that allows for a flush mount of the countersunk crossbolt screws, kinda a larger version of the Kidd pin set-up. :t
You can use either black or stainless machine screws to match whatever you're building. :t
I'm working on a variation, kinda a hybrid of this method, or a combination of ideas from that thread, one step at a time, then testing each change......
Pillar bed as Cnrtyboy stated, then added a perch out of aluminum 1/8" plate above the pillar about 3/4"X1", and filed the receiver surface flat to mate to it. The plate is bedded in by dremeling out this section to get the right height, then epoxy-ing it into permanent position, and using a nut on the takedown bolt, is held tightened together for 24 hours. Then, I looked at the crossbolt method, and decided to try cross-bolting only the rear pin hole, with slight downward pressure, but use a Kidd pin in the front receiver pin hole. This triangulates the pressure points both front and rear while stabilizing side to side at the same time. I have no idea if it is any better or not, haven't tested it yet with the crossbolt in place, but I think it will be every bit as successful, and a much easier installation. The Kidd pin holds my group up with tighter tolerances to the bolt, and stabilizes the front of the group while helping the action to be more consistent by the bolt/firing pin striking better/more consistently. After testing that change, it'll be onto bedding the front of the barrel as per Countryboy in that post, and removing the pad up front, all in a one step fashion with testing between each change, and good notes, so I can document what's happening. :t When Ted says its better than Glass bedding, I listen. :t
I got enough threaded crossbolts and countersink washers to do ten like this if anybody wants a set-up to try and avoid exhorbitant shipping costs on a small order. :t I picked out stuff that allows for a flush mount of the countersunk crossbolt screws, kinda a larger version of the Kidd pin set-up. :t
You can use either black or stainless machine screws to match whatever you're building. :t
i've had good luck so far anchoring the rear of the action by shimmin the rear top of the trigger group where it slips under the ledge in the stock....i haven't had the chance to really wring it out on the range, but it does lock the rear down securely...Winchester52D said:
i'm sure others around here have tried this, and can give more specific advice on this method
later
cletus
I have a friend who took an alternate form of bedding and glued his barrel in an free floated his action. While this might sound extreme and difficult to service, his rifle shoots great. He scores in the mid 230’s @ 50yds on the USBR target every time. While this might not be a good bolt action score I have yet to see a semi auto that will score consistently above 240. His glued in 10/22 has been very consistent (consistently winning the semi-auto class), now if you can only be able to service the rifle while it is glued in.
Ruger Rob
Ruger Rob
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