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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
well, folks i've tinkered w/this thing and cant seem to tighten up the 100yd 17HMR groups any more than what the pics show. this is what ive done/checked to the sportster:

1) thread locked the scope base
2) JB polished the bore
3) free floated barrel/forend---O-ringS plus sanding!
4) checked latch engagement(fine/tight/clean)
5) no wobble at all when action is locked up
6) trigger from factory @ 3.5lbs-not bad!
7) thoroughly cleaned entire gun
8) cleaned up bottom of lug on barrel...stoned flat because it had a "hump" or pointed edge.

i'm using a simmons 3-9X32AO 22MAG scope. its crystal clear but may use a different scope next time im at the range to see if this makes any difference.

i discovered the eye piece was a bit loose...or unscrewed afterwards. dont know if this would be a factor in accuracy since the crosshairs arent attached to it at all. tightened it back up!

here are the groups. they all took on a strange "L" shape pattern. the target is 3" and there was light wind 10mph, but heavy mirage as it was 95degrees. shooting was done from a bipod and also rested a sandbag behind the forend. like i said....it made no difference how the rifle was supported. it grouped the same no matter what. btw, i was using a large wire spool as my bench. STILL, all hits would be death for any ground squirrel that crossed my path.

is this about the size of your groups? didnt measure but id say theyre about 1.5-2"


this is one neat little rifle and all of the ballistic tip ammo shoots the same through it. if i missed anything on how to improve the accuracy a bit more, please chime in. it's a keeper until Cooper makes a single shot 17hmr varmint rifle.
thanks and happy shootn!
 

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Check the crown! I bought one from a fella on Predatormasters that he could only get 3" groups with....cleaned the crown up with the bolt and valve grinding compound method and it shoots 1" or a little better at 100yds....If that isn't the problem, contact H&R and ask for it to be fixed....send a target with it, they should respond favorably. Ask for a call tag or to be reimbursed for the shipping. Right now their turn around time on getting extra barrels is 2 weeks, so it would be an excellent time for a repair!!

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
heres the crown

im under the impression that its a good crown but i'd love to be proven wrong. quickd, please direct me to the link that tells how to clean up the crown. ive heard of ppl using ball bearings and grinding compounds but not the "bolt" you described.
heres the NEF:


...and heres a crown from a cooper 21 that i KNOW is 100%



thanks for the speedy input, btw! you must love NEF rifles as much as(if not MORE than) your better half :D
 

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I have to recommend a higher power scope. Personally I cannot see well enough with 9x to shoot nickle and dime size groups.
Have you tried all the different kinds of .17 ammo to see which shoots best in your gun?.
A ten mile per hour wind will deflect a 17 three inches at 100 yards.
I had one that shot good but it liked to be layed across the bags a certain way and I had to use a follow through with my trigger pull.
Just some things to think about.

good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks, quick.

ice, yes. tried all vmax types...theyre all the same just w/different labels on the boxes. the only one i havent tried is CCI TNT. true about the wind thing. i think i'll take the gun to my 100yd indoor range before i send it off for repair or attempt to tinker w/it anymore. forgot about how light the 17 is! and 9X power is plenty for me...dont really want to go up in power.
thanks for the input so far.
 

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Since floating the barrel doesn't work, try putting some pressure on it. One way is with a cut up mouse pad. Adjust the pressure with the foreend screw and by moving the pad forward and back. Not very scientific, but it's worked for me with an Anschutz that grouped like a shotgun.
 

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It could be the scope but not from power. I've shot hundreds of 1/2 to1" groups with a 9X scope. If you have another scope I'd give that a try. That little rifle should shoot better than that
 

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And this leads to a new thread. Accepting Anschutz for what it is..... just kidding.

Sometimes crowns look good but aren't that square, or if you look at the surface in of the very edge of the crown you'll see a rough spot. Try spinning a cotton swab in the muzzle and see if it catches on anything.
 

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RinFireGimp:

Just a thought.
Remove the bipod and shoot over front bag while shifting the rest point fore and aft to find the "sweetspot" that results in the tightest groups. Rifles with a two-piece stock like NEF and Ruger No1 are notoriously finicky about forend pressure. With the bipod attached a new variable is added which may cause dampening and affect the harmonics of the barrel. Add to that the lack of stiffness in most OEM composite stocks and the problem is compounded. If this yields no improvment you might try swapping the scope the with one of known accuracy. In short remove all the variables and start with the basics.
Good luck. Hope this helps

RonSC
 

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Was about to ask if you were shooting from the bi-pod or a bag... set it up nice and solid into a benchrest or sandbags and retry... another thing to remember that since you are shooting from a bi-pod (if you are) is that you have to factor in breathing and trigger squeeze... left to right is trigger... up and down in breathing... get that baby on the sandbags... try again
 

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Guys, he says in the post with the pictures that it shoots the same off bipod or bags. Says he tried both.

There is no way of telling from those pictures if the crown is good. Cotton swab works for big nicks but it is better to get a good magnifying glass or jewelers lupe and have a good close look. Just touched up the crown on my 10/22 for a couple of nicks that were just not visible except with glass ( at least to my eyes). The bolt or bearing thing with valve grinding compound is pretty much the same thing. Round headed bolt works like a bearing with a handle. I tried something different this time. Tried a white Dremel stone twisted by hand with very light pressure. Read about it here at RFC. Either way it is important if you are doing crown by hand to turn the rifle 90* work on crown, turn rifle 90*, work on crown etc....... This way you don't get the crown lopsided. The 10/22 crown looks very nice and smooth now but haven't shot it yet. Bearing, bolt, stone are all basically the same idea and it works. I have touched up several crowns in the past with very good results. Even a tiny nick can drive accuracy nuts with .22 bore and a .17 has to be even more sensitive to damaged crown.

I would not be happy with .17 NEF until it was shooting groups at least half of what you are getting. Looks in picture like 3" groups and all reports are the Sportster should be a MOA rifle or at least close to it.

Like comment about 100 yard indoor range.....always wanted one of those! :D
 

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Vincent: :t

You are correct sir. But he didn't mention whether he "removed" the bipod entirely. A folded bipod will affect the harmonics due to the forward shift in moment since he stated the sandbags were positioned aft of the forend. Even on a one-piece stock a folded bipod can have a 'dampening' or 'tuning fork' effect on barrel harmonics. Just trying to cover all the bases. :)

RonSC
 

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That makes perfect sense. To be honest I'm surprised that these guys that shoot groups off the bipod can get decent groups at all! Too many moving parts for me.
 

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Vincent:

Roger that!!. :t

I'm not a big fan of bipods either. I had a Ruger No.1 in gave me fits in a similar manner. The first three rounds would yield a 5/8-7/8" inch group @ 100 yds w/reloads from a cold barrel, while 4 and 5 were not even in the same 'zip code'. :mad: Of course this was a combination of heat build up and fore end hanger design. Subsequent groups resulted in a diagonal 'stringing' from 5-11 O'clock. Add a bipod to the mix and the problem compounded. Rugers were notorious for this.

RonSC
 

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Not to hijack this thread but I've alway's wanted a #1 (actually I'd really like an old Farhquarson/Jefferys/Gibbs or one of those but that is a dream). I shot quite a few of the originals when I younger, Knew a guy that had a huge collection of English Singles and Doubles and I got to shoot a bunch of them over a 4 year period in the 70's.

Did you do the hanger mod on you #1? Drill and tap hanger, set screw thru to pressure point under barrel? Seems to cure alot of #1 blues.
 

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Something else to think about is lock time, I think these guns have a pretty long locktime. Doesn't mean it won't shoot just that it would demand more from the shooter. I would deffinately go for a trigger job, 2 1/2 lbs would make it much easier to shoot. Also check your finger position on the trigger, dry fire a few times and pay attention to see if the cross hairs move as you make your trigger press. I built a 243 for my son out of a NEF and it will shoot 3/4 off bags if you do you part but I did a trigger job and recrowned the barrel and all the other stuff to get it there.

One other thing I thought of, it's harder to group these guns because you have to disturb your rest everytime to reload. You have to be more particular to your set up than usual.

Ross
 

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Vincent:

At the time I owned the rifle (late 70's) not much was available on fore end mods, at least that I was aware of. I only became aware of those fix's years after I sold the rifle. Several companies now make a replacement hanger design that is heads above the original. I eventually traded the rifle out of frustration, but had second thoughts as I drove away. Shoulda' kept it but as they say hindsight is 20/20. Oh to have some of the guns that I sold over the years would make a grown man cry... :bonk:

Ron
 
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