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a Couple of CZ questions

642 Views 6 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  GaryG
Hope these are not dumb questions but here goes...I have a CZ 513 that I want to add a scope to and was considering removing the sights once the scope was on. Is there plugs or inserts that would fit into the holes where the sights were? Also, could a person bye an adjustable trigger for another CZ model and put it in the 513? I have not seen a lot about the 513 and to be honest I had considered trading it for a Buck Mark.
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I don't know of any slot fillers for the CZ 72° dovetailed sight bases. They are larger than the standard US spec 3/8" 60° dovetails. Think the easist thing to do would be to carve the original sights down into slot fillers. I'd suspect there might be a suppier somewhere in Europe, but that's simply a guess on my part.

Also, I've not done a side by side look see, but I'm under the impression the triggers are so different that one from a CZ 452, nor a Walther KK-100 would fit. A very good smith might/should be able to adapt the receiver to accept a better trigger, but the cost would probably be prohibative.

The good news, there's been at least one guy here at RFC that has had some success in tuning up the trigger into something a bit nicer and user friendly.

Good luck with yours!
 

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22 Plinker, I have several hundred rounds through my recently acquired 513 and the trigger is getting better. If you have the time and inclination, try giving that 513 a couple of bricks of plinking ammo before you trade her off. This rifle is proving to be one of my most accurate CZs.

I drove my rear sight out as soon as I got it and mounted a Weaver Classic Rimfire 2-7 on it. But I have been scratching my head over what to do with the big dovetail cut. I have considered modifying the original sight as dkemper suggested but I want to wait until I can find an old odd size dovetail filler that I have in a box around here somewhere.
 

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Mine, like Sheffieldshootr's, is pretty accurate. I redid the stock since it's shaped for a right hand and I'm left handed. I also did some trigger polishing and added a couple of shims (made from aluminum can) to give me a smoother pull. It's better now than most of my other rifles. I would not recommend the shaving off the top like I did on mine. Shimming did pretty much the same thing and polishing smoothed it out.

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Sorry about nomenclature usage--part names elude me. Should be the sear's working surface. If you remove the trigger asm which is simple to do, polish the area to a high polish. If you look closesly, you see a lot of machining marks on it (at least there were on mine). The shims I used to reduce the amount of contact surface with the bolt. I think I used two of them. If you go too far, the bolt may release too quickly or won't latch. You have to play with it. Or you can do like sheffieldshootr and shoot it until you break it in.

Also, on mine, I shaved the stock on the left side of the grip area to match the right side and restained the stock.

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Newmoss, in your diagrams, I noticed you did not show the small spring that keeps the trigger from flopping forward. It seems to me that one could add some of these, one at a time, until the desired trigger pull is achieved. This little spring works in the direction of the trigger pull, thus aiding the pull. Now, where to get them and how much $ ? What do you think?
 
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