Welp, some more work on the Old Girl this weekend. The only thing that truly needs work was the trigger, which I mentioned was too light for my tastes. I needed it to go from a few ounces to about a pound to a pound and a half.
After regrinding the sear, I used a Mix of Cherry Red and Potassium Ferrocyanide, to give it a "torch style" (as opposed to pack carburizing) case. I focused only on the sear and the trigger pin hole, leaving the rest in the annealed condition.
Here is the sear after grinding but before hardening. The pic doesn't do it justice ( that;s what happens you have a potato for a camera) but the shiny spots are just that, shiny. It'll look better once hardened. Note the relief cut which is the long "shiny" line.
After testing I had about a 2.5 pound pull...nice and crisp.
Next, I set up my hardening pound and went all "Cherry Red" on it per the instructions. After my first quench and test, it was not quite as hard as I wanted it...but close. So, another few minutes of heating and dipping and it was "make the file sing" hard.
After I got it to pass the file test, I simply buffed it at low speed with a soft stainless steel brush with my Riobi version of a Dremel.
Post buffing. Again. Sorry about the potato pics. The sun had gone down ( I did this at night on purpose so I could readily "read" the steel.
After heat treat, it sang like a bird on the file, which was perfect. I then tried, out of interest, to cold blue it as a temporary measure but no dice. I'll have to mix up a batch of salts and blue it proper at the lowest temp recipe I can find. Ooooh...maybe rust blue?
Next, I also polished (carefully) the sear/trigger spring so that it has smoother motion and a more advantageous co-efficient of friction on the trigger. Again....forgive myPotato.
After: (it looks much better than the photo...and it worked GREAT)
The last thing. Like a lot of old guns....if you can't see it from the outside...it's likely gonna be rough it it isn't important.
I mic'd the trigger pin (0.1550") and ordered a plus and a minus Vermont gage pin with the nitride "tolerance" coating that, when it wears off, shows you need a new gage pin. The one that fits best goes in after I part it off to the proper length. (.4980", IIRC) Anyhow, the point is that they are made from 52-100 bearing steel and the nitride coat sure ain't gonna hurt! The OEM pin is rather rough...but not uncommon in old guns like these.
After all was said and done; the trigger hardened and buffed, the sear spring polished and great and oil put in all the right spot: I have a nice 1 to 1.5 pound trigger pull. It was lighter but I didn't like the feel so, I tightened the sear/trigger spring to full depth. That did the trick.
Now....hmmmm......thinking of putting an over-travel screw in it...or maybe a plate like older Smith and Wesson revolvers had on their frames many moons ago.
This gun...it calls to me!