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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
after hitting the range yesterday I'm a bit concerned with my rifle accuracy. I'm maxed out on Elevation and windage on my scope and I'm exactly 2" low and 3" left at 25 yards. I know I can eak some more of each out of the inserts on the rings but that seems like a lot to be off(granted I'm rather new to setting up a scope).

Am I just being antzy or do I have something major to be concerned about?

I should note however that this thing groups excellent(haven't measured but have had 8 shots through the same hole)

The only other thing I can think might be throwing it off is that I used the VQ bedding kit and used both pads upfront instead of one(because with either pad seperatly allowed the action to moving). So I may have to glass bed the action.
 

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How about a little more info, like....

What base are you using?
Are you using high or medium Burris Signature Zee Rings?
Which offset inserts are you using: front? back?
At what distance did you first boresight rifle?
Did you set scope settings to neutral before you began?
How much clearance between front bell of scope and barrel?
What type of stock do you have?

After all, this is not the psychic hotline. :rolleyes:
 

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I suggest you get and insert kit if you have not gotten one and try it.

I was way low with my new 800116 on my Weaver T09 base with Weaver rings. After filing the receiver top to relive the hump and using high velocity ammo I was still 4” low at 25 yards with the elevation maxed.

I received advice here to get a Power Custom base and Burris Signature Zee rings with an insert kit. I whined about the cost but after deliberating decided to break down and spent the money for the base, rings, and inserts.

The result is after installing the PC base and Burris Signature Zee rings with the +10 insert in the rear ring bottom the –10 in the rear ring top are that I now have plenty of adjustment with high velocity and subsonic ammo to get out past 100 yards without topping out the elevation knob. If you are topped out at 25 yards you are not getting full usefulness out of your scope what is the point of having target knobs you cannot use.

The Burris Signature Zee rings with inserts were well worth the cost. I had spent hours filing and adjusting before with little luck. I should have listen to the advice I got early on and saved myself the aggravation.

One word of caution for anyone getting the Burris Signature Zee rings… When I mounted them on the PC base it was very difficult to tighten them down. The force necessary to turn the base screws was great, even with a gunsmith screw driver and proper bits I could not keep from slipping and gouging the base and receiver twice. Burris should supply these rings with hex head screws… somebody posting here was selling hex head screws I would suggest anyone get a pair if they decide to get the Burris rings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: How about a little more info, like....

OldCorpsJoe said:
What base are you using?
Are you using high or medium Burris Signature Zee Rings?
Which offset inserts are you using: front? back?
At what distance did you first boresight rifle?
Did you set scope settings to neutral before you began?
How much clearance between front bell of scope and barrel?
What type of stock do you have?

After all, this is not the psychic hotline. :rolleyes:
Sorry for the lack of info. Here is the info I currently have the rest I will have to measure out :)

The base Is PC reciever mount.

I'm using the medium height rings

offset inserts? I'm using whatever came in the rings from the factory. I haven't changed them

It hasn't been bore sited. I'm not sure how this can be done on a click-clack

Don't know about setting the scope to neutral. I just slapped it on and eyeballed the crosshair alignment, eye relief is right however.

I'll have to measure the distance. Haven't checked

The stock is a boyds smartstock. Had to open up the channel to float the barrel and had to open up the magazine well for proper ejection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Not binding

Before I opened the channel It was sitting all the way over to the left. After I opened the channel it was floating. Then I installed the VQ bedding kit.

like I said though I had to use both pads in the front because the action was too loose. So I'm thinking maybe I may have to bed the action and remove one of the pads. but if the pads were causing it would it be high instead of low? considering the barrel would be pushed up.
 

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Are there other inserts I need to get.
Yes

Burris makes sets of offset inserts for the Signature Zee rings that can be used in place of the ones that came with you're rings. The offset rings are designed as concentric circles and are specially designed to adjust you point of impact. The inserts come in sets for one ring or you can buy an insert kit with all three sizes.

Sizes are:
+/- .005"
+/- .010"
+/- .020"

Each set consists of a + and - insert for 1 ring. They must be used in matched +/- pairs.

For example in the +/- .010" set you have one +10 half and one -10 half.

The inserts that came with your scope are a 0 set with no offset and are so marked if you look closely at them.

To bring my point of impact up I used the 10 set in my rear ring the +10 on the bottom and the -10 on the top. This elevated the rear of the scope, which brought the point of impact up.

You can also rotate the offset inserts right and left to adjust the horizontal point of impact.

Go to Midway's site and do a search for "712472".

Link: http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteaproduct/712472

You can get an insert kit for less than $10… they will save you a load of grief.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
cool

one more question.

Would I need two sets then? One for the front and on for the rear? or would I only need the set for the rear since its low(as opposed to high?
 

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If you get the kit it comes with one set (a top and bottom insert) each of the 5,10, and 20 inserts.

You could use them in both rings if needed for greater/finer adjustment… but I do not think you will need to do that considering I was 4” inch low at 25 yards and the 10 insert set in the rear rings alone worked fine for me.
 

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I am having the same problems even with the inserts. The problem is that each time you take apart the scope/rings you can never reproduce how you put it back. Even after removing all the offset inserts and trying to return to my "stock" config, I had problems.

Once I was shooting on the far left and couldn't see where they were landing. So I tried shooting on the far right and they landed all the way on the far left of the paper. This is how off my scope is.

Does anyone actually know how many inches the adjustments move at 50 yards? I can turn it 10 clicks and it looks like it does not move an inch. So very annoying.
 

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800116 W&E Adjustments

Gentlemen,

The 800116 has 1/8 MOA W&E adjustments....! ! :eek:

1/8 MOA = 1/8" @ 100 yards. Therefore, each 'click' equals:

_1/8" @ 100 yards
1/16" @ _50 yards
1/32" @ _25 yards
 

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Re: 800116 W&E Adjustments

BigMike said:
Gentlemen,

The 800116 has 1/8 MOA W&E adjustments....! ! :eek:

1/8 MOA = 1/8" @ 100 yards. Therefore, each 'click' equals:

_1/8" @ 100 yards
1/16" @ _50 yards
1/32" @ _25 yards
So being off by 5 inches down and 5 inches left means I need to make 16x5 = 80 clicks in each direction to compensate? If that's the case, I am sure I'll run out of adjustment. I always thought you could use the adjustments to, well adjust, but it's more like SUPER fine tuning. If your mounts don't throw you on the bullseye, you might as well not bother taking off the adjustment caps.
 

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Mismounted

sygyzy,

I suspect your scope or barrel is incorrectly mounted, which is the cause of your problem...! ! :(

Did you check your receiver for the "bump"...? ? This is a very common cause for scoped rifles shooting "low"...! ! :(

Is your barrel "free floated...? ? If so, then you could be experiencing "barrel droop"...! ! :(

Starting anew, what do you have:
Barrel
Stock
Base
Rings

Get back to us...! ! :)
 

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Re: Mismounted

BigMike said:
sygyzy,

I suspect your scope or barrel is incorrectly mounted, which is the cause of your problem...! ! :(

Did you check your receiver for the "bump"...? ? This is a very common cause for scoped rifles shooting "low"...! ! :(

Is your barrel "free floated...? ? If so, then you could be experiencing "barrel droop"...! ! :(

Starting anew, what do you have:
Barrel
Stock
Base
Rings

Get back to us...! ! :)
Mike, glad you chimed in. Hope you can help. I am extremely frustrated. I left the range shooting only 150 rounds because I was so upset. I have 300 more sitting here for a good day when my gun finally works!

Barrel = Green Mounted 20" Blued Fluted
Stock = Fajen Finished Midnight Right Handed Silouhette
Base = Power Custom
Rings = Burris Zee Signature Medium
Inserts = Burris Offset Set (the $10 one from Midway)

I read about the bump briefly but NEVER checked the receiver. Quite honestly it seemed like a random and small occurance and I don't like the idea of shaving away my receiver. DO you have any more info on this?

Barrel is not free floated. I didn't modify the Fajen stock at all so there should be that front bed right?

What frustrates me the most is each time I try a new insert, it doesn't exactly act as expected. If I drop in a -10 in front, I expect the scope to aim lower, but when I put it back together it might aim lower but now be off to the right or even further left. There is no way to exactly re-mount it the same as before. One screw too tight and you are way off. :(
 

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Scope Mounting Problems

sygyzy,

First you need to determine IF you have the infamous "Bump" on the top-forward end of your receiver: [I suspect that you do...! ! :( ]
Using a bright light on the far side of your receiver and scope mounting base, look for any light shining under the base...! ! IF you see any light under your scope mounting base, there is a strong possiblity that you have the "Bump"...! ! :(

Next, remove your scope from the mounting base and set it aside. Carefully remove the mounting base. With a steel straight edge, lay it on the top of the receiver [front to back] and do the light test again. IF you have the "Bump", you will readily see it at the front end of the receiver. Dress-off the "Bump" with a file, following the instructions in Randy's Post [below]. If you are careful, you can remove the "Bump" and cover the 'spot' with your scope base...! ! :)

Mounting a scope base on a 10/22 tips, The Bump

Now that the "Bump" has been dealt with, we'll move on to your scope and rings.
There is no way to exactly re-mount it the same as before. One screw too tight and you are way off. :(
What you are describing would indicate that your rings are misaligned with respect to the mounting base; so, if you tighten the front ring to the base first, the rear ring is tilted to one side, and visa-versa if you tighten the rear ring first; this puts a torque on you scope tube, and changes your POI each time you remove the scope...! ! :( :(

0 Mark both the scope ring tops & bottoms with masking tape with an arrow pointing towards the muzzle; when they are replaced on the scope, the rear will remain the rear, and it will be exactly as it was manufactured.
0 Mark the scope ring locations on the scope tube with masking tape, so your eye relief will be the same as before.
0 Remove the tops of the mounting rings and the top half inserts; put the rear ring top, its insert, and screws in a jar cover; do the same for the front ring top, its insert, and screws in a second jar cover.
0 Now, mount the front ring bottom on your scope base, and 'snug up' the mounting screw. Check to make sure it is squarely mounted on the base...! ! No light, or equal amounts of light, should show under the bottom of the ring to base. Repeat for the rear ring bottom on your scope base, and 'snug up' the mounting screw. Check to make sure it is squarely mounted on the base...! !
0 Next, lay your scope in the lower halves of the rings with their inserts; it helps if the rifle is held by a padded jaw vise, or in your sand bags. Locate the scope fore-to-aft based upon your masking tape on the tube.
0 Set the upper half of your front ring with its insert on the scope tube; align the screw holes, and run the top half screws in only finger tight. Set the upper half of your rear ring with its insert on the scope tube; align the screw holes, and run the top half screws in only finger tight.
0 Check that your reticle is plumb and square with respect to the rifle; remember, the left side of the 10/22 receiver is flat, and a carpenter's square/level maybe placed there. ;)
0 Using a 'criss-cross pattern', slowly tighten the upper half ring screws: right front, left rear, left front, and right rear. Give each screw about a half-turn, and then move to the next screw; repeat until the all the screws are 'snug'. Continue to check your reticle for plumb & square to the rifle.
0 Finally, tighten all the upper half ring screws using the 'criss-cross pattern' used above. Then, tighten the ring to base clamping screws.
0 You have mounted your scope in a stress free condition, and if you should remove it from the base, it should return to "Zero" when it is remounted +/- 1/2 MOA.

This should solve your most of your problems. If you still are shooting "low", check to see that you have the "pressure pad" [small bump of wood] in your barrel channel near the forearm tip. If not, try inserting a business card under the barrel near the forearm tip. If this solves the problem, it can be made permanent by trimming it so it doesn't show....! ! ;)

Hope this solves your problems...! ! :)

Good Luck...! ! :)
 
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