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Hi all, I just picked up a new .597 blue barrel with the OD green stock and scope yesterday. I was between this gun and a 10/22 and ended up with the Remington, it felt much better in my hands and was cheaper with optics.

I've been doing lots of searching on the site to learn how to make my new gun a better shooter. I already have a VQ hammer, VQ extractor, bipod and 30 rd. magazine on its way. I've read up on loosening the guide rods as well. What else am I missing out on?

I'm hoping this post can become a "New Users Guide" for the .597, where owners can easily find links to other posts detailing the different tips and tricks out there. Please feel free to add anything I have missed in my searching!

Tom
 

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Ammo -- for break in, I used CCI Mini Mags.

For target work, I found that Wolf MT or SK Standard + is very accurate! :bthumb:
 

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Here's all I have.

Scott

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Original thread on guide rail polishing posted by Outlander.
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158654

Bolt information.
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163696

Bolt polishing.
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=162387

Sear spring replacement and internal sear/trigger stop.
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165794

Sear spring replacement.
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174177

Reversed hammer spring
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165894

Hammer experiment.
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=162320

Hammer spring experiment
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173181

Brian Voelker 597 tips
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173858

Factory hammer polishing
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166341

Original sear spring replacement thread.
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164500

22lr guide rod installation.
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=162320

Magazine spring observation.
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=186844&highlight=loop

Lightened bolt for slower subsonic ammo.
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205650

Original trigger reset mod thread by Space Shooter.
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207007

Factory hammer modification
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262819

Headspace
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=259573

Firing pin Modification
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=265318
 

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Can anyone enlighten me on flipping the factory spring when I put in the VQ hammer? What are the benefits besides a slightly lighter trigger pull? Are there any downfalls?
Possible, light hammer strikes~no bang. If thunderfarts work you're probably good to go. :)
 

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The search feature here isn't perfect but requires 4 letters or numbers to work. If you really want to know something try it before starting a thread to have someone else do the homework. :bthumb:
 

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I have a mod that I have done but I am still working on the testing will post results within the month.
The mod involves filing away close to .003" of barrel material nearest to the chamber this brings the bullet closer to the lands so far no major accuracy tests have been done. :rolleyes:
 

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Headspacing without Lathe or Dremel

Hello Gents, I finally got back on the site. I teach now so I've been REALLY busy with new students at my High School. Saw quite a few older and some newer threads asking about reducing head space on the Rem 597. I have two of them. One for me and one for my son. I dont have a lathe but have access, I have a dremel and a steady hand. But WHY risk an uneven face. If you use VERY FINE sandpaper,I used 880 beige automotive finishing sandpaper laid over a flat 1/8" steel plate. Which in turn is clamped onto a study table. To the bolt assembly I added a bubble level, which is used to maintain straightness. Hold the bolt face down on the sandpaper confirming level is straight pulling towards you. You will see a grayish substance on the sandpaper as you work the bolt assembly towards you. Every few strokes while using downward pressure until final polishing of the face, use the depth measurement on your Vernier Caliper to confirm you have not removed excess metal. I had completely disassembled both rifles, and would sit the bolt face flush against the barrel chamber face and hold up sideways against the light to confirm no light pass thru. I did not experience any abnormal facing or worry about dremel cutting off too much from even a slight accident. I figured i could find an easy DO IT YOURSELF way ANYBODY could use. I sanded both bolt head-spaces to .043, bedded both actions with fiberglass resin used for marine & automotive applications. With barrels free floated. Confirmed my son's was free floated, and shot his at 45 yards. It averaged 1/2". So he is happy as we only use them to plink, and shoot rabbits. He had been happy with the 1 to 1 1/2" groups he used to get. But by bedding his entire stock with ethafoam first then the fiberglass it solidified the whole thing! He is really happy with it now, and has been shooting rabbits out to 100 plus yards, with a lot more confidence. I haven't shot mine as It wasn't floated correctly when I re-seated the action and screwed it on. So I had to sand out the barrel channel ever so slightly to confirm dollar bill didn't snag towards last inch of barrel against receiver. And with the rain we have been having I haven't had a chance to shoot mine. It used to shoot 1/2", but was striving to get 1/4" groups. Hopefully its possible. I hope this long description helps some of you who don't have the machinery or power tools specifically recommended. The level sanding was also used to correct the plane of the bullet chamber face plate that showed scratches on the surface mating to the bolt face, as well as to bring the bullet closer to the rifling for better accuracy on my sons 597.
 

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Extractor Removal

I noticed a lot of recommendations to use mini flat blade screwdrivers to force the plunger and remove the extractor. Also that some use a trashbag becuase they lose control of spring and plunger. Please allow me to give hyou an alternate method. Use presure of your thumbs pad against the plunger spring location holding bolt assembly firmly in hand. Then using a thin ALLEN WRENCH push into and between extractor and bolt channel, pushing in with pressure. By keeping the pressure with your thumb pad against the plunger location, the extractor will pop out of its locking locagtion without losing plunger and spring. When reinstalling I use a slightly thicker Allen Wrench to push in onthe plunger and I push the extractor by hand into its original location, and it pops right in, then I push its base into the plunger location to lkock it into place. Has worked easily everytime. Hopes this helps some of you to work on your rifle more confidently.
 

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Cleaning Rod Thru Receiver

Hello Gents, I haven't seen this anywhere so here is another helpful hint. Atleast I hope Im helping. To clean through your receiver, remove guide rods, and bolt asembly, breakloose, by pushing in with Allen Wrench or medium diameter rod against buffer from back of receiver between guide rod screws, and pull rear rubber buffer. Remove hot glue which held buffer and re-install by pushing back in using soime force. When ever you want to clean barrel from chamber end just remove stock, guide rods, slide out bolt assembly. buffer, and start cleaning. Then just re-assemble.
 

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Hey guy, I am new to the forums. I just wanted to drop in and say hello. I am the proud new owner of a 597 VTR. I have added a cheapo Centerfire scope from Wal-Mart(approx $40) and a cheapo winchester sling from Wal-Mart. I will post pics soon. I can't wait to take her out and field test her. I had originally planned on getting a S&W M&P 15/22 until I saw the $299 price tag for the VTR at Academy. The S&W was $499 by comparison. It also helped that the VTr felt really solidly built. I love the weight of it. overall, just out of the box, I am loving this gun.
 
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