I am also interested in this info. I just started shooting ARA with my MTR and have wondering if it would be worth doing either/both of these.
I've pillar bedded three CZ's and one T1X. Pete's Pillars for one CZ but 13MM X 7MM aluminum tubing for rest. Used the Pete's as template for the 457's. Tikka no need. All guns now shoot best with 18-20 in/lb. torque.
Below is an image of the front factory pillar in my 457 VMTR.
1 - the pillar machining seem to have been part of the action/stock inletting process
2 - from the clearly seen imprint/depression of the action on top of the pillar, the pillar material compresses under pressure and does not reform
While this pillar and bedding are worlds better than having the action bolted into pure wood, it is a far cry from optimal for precision, which is the goal.
same issue i had with the wait and no contact so i cancelled and was charged 20% , oh well it will only happen onceI usually make my own pillars from aluminum round stock as I've found the commercially available pillars are too small in diameter. This time I ordered the set, along with the "upgraded" screws, from Pete's Pillars. They were ordered on 5/8 (no out-of-stock indication) and I received a shipping notice email on 5/9. However, the provided tracking # shows that while a label was created, the USPS had not received the item by today 5/16. I emailed PP yesterday but have not had any response yet. I'm not sure what's going on, and the pillars could show up tomorrow, but for the time being, I wouldn't recommend ordering these from PP.
I will be installing aluminum pillars in my 457 MTR (possibly homemade) and will report back issues and results.
Seeing you asked, bed it.Okay, some early post-modification results and observations . . .
Apologies in advance for the longish post.)
Based on very limited shooting of this rifle as-was out of the box and after each “improvement” (trigger, crown, pillars), using a variety of quality ammo I have on hand for use in my UL rifle (Eley Match, Lapua C-X, M+, X-ACT) I was coming to the conclusion that I simply did not win, or even place, in the “barrel lottery”. Results were unacceptably poor at worst, and inconsistent at best (especially with action screw torque changes). At the tail end of my last home testing in desperation I tried out some of my PRS rifle (10/22) ammo – SKLRM - and was surprised to see this stuff perform, if not well, at least better than previously tested more expensive ammo. I then left my house for 2 days to help set up a PRS match, shoot the PRS match on Saturday and then shoot some BR matches the following day. After PRS set-up was complete a couple of guys went to the 50 yard range and I had an opportunity to shoot a brand new Bergara. Five shots went into one hole – very nice! I then took out my VMTR and with the same SKLRM I used at home, and shot a 1”+ group. I was not happy, and you could have bought this rifle from me at a steep discount.
Flash forward to Sunday morning where I entered a local ARA Factory (outdoor) match, just to get in some rounds, with low expectations. Only 10 shooters, and at least six CZ 457 VMTR’s, along with a couple of Bergara’s on the line.
FYI – I shot using a homemade wide stance bipod and a soft bunny ear rear bag. I borrowed a few mags from a buddy and struggled with reloading during the match (I shoot a LOT of sighters) and other issues such a slimy hands (love that SK ammo). I also tested my modified trigger with a borrowed gauge which read about ¾ of a pound (12oz.) and while I question the accuracy of this tool at that low end of the force scale, I believe the trigger is solidly sub-1#.
During the match I could make no sense of the wind conditions, with the flags switching constantly and even spinning around in circles, and I thought I’d shot a pretty crappy 3 cards. But – when I briefly got a particular wind condition, the holes appeared where they should be. My crappy scores (I will not reveal these they are so bad) turned out to be good enough to edge out the second place shooter for a win. Go figgur . . .
So I would have to say the modifications I’ve made seem, at least at this stage, and still with very limited testing, to at best, have somewhat improved precision – or at least not harmed it – of course - WITH THE RIGHT AMMO. (Duh.) I am now faced with a somewhat tricky decision. If the rifle is shooting well with just the aluminum pillars, suspended ~.030” above the rifle stock with no action bedding, do I not mess with what’s working? Or go ahead with the planned epoxy bedding of the action? Hmmmm . . .
…could you - or anyone 😊 - explain the process of slugging the barrel - in clinical detail?Recutting the crown can yield positive results or no improvement at all. It all depends on how good the factory barrel is from the start. Bore scoping the barrel and slugging it can help determine if the barrel is worth investing in a recrown. If it slugs poorly, has issues inside, or both, it’s best to save your money and not invest at all. Pillar and glass bedding is always worth doing regardless. Just don’t bed any part of the barrel incase you have to change it.
I will take a crack at it. Instructions for a boltie. For a 10/22, you'd need to remove the barrelfrom the action first. The folowing has worked on my CZs.…could you - or anyone 😊 - explain the process of slugging the barrel - in clinical detail?