Nice video BD, that sure looks like the biggest .030" difference in length I've ever seen. Oh wel...
A few things.
First, in the OP, they measure only one CZ spring? Or two, if you count the earlier 455 spring. That one or two springs may not be a good example of all the springs CZ puts in their rifles. 0.030"...
I partially agree and also disagree. Dealing with new unused springs coming from a manufacturer I don't find them to fluctuate in lengths to the degree that it would effect their given strength to create an issue with this application. Of course, if they change their own design or tolerancing and issue a new spring, that can account for significant differences. I have not seen any of these changes in the last 5 years, or at least since the 455's have been out, on the CZ springs at least. My manufacturer guarantees +/- 2% on K factor (spring constant) for his springs and there are far more important tolerances to maintain than slight variations (or even .030") on the "free length" in regards to strength and/or spring constant. The working length is a different story, but that doesn't change unless you modify the bolt/striker, or put a spacer in there on the spring. The cut wire is maintained to a +/- .015" length tolerance easily before winding, and the coiling is done on fixed lead screw arrangement or cnc, so that doesn't wander very much either. Heat treating after forming can sometimes cause growth or inconsistancies in strength, but that is why ASTM 228 has a slight advantage in consistancy. Besides, springs are QCed for these things like free length long before they even leave a factory and if there happens to be a bad apple as far as measurable size or performance, it gets tossed.
... - how much variance is there in JnP springs' lengths? Surely there is some variation in the production of both CZ and JnP springs? Average length isn't enough to say one population of springs is longer or shorter than another, and a sample of even 10 springs of each manufacture isn't what I would call a "representative" sample...
People like the others posting pictures and myself have noticed significant differeces in length (not .030"). Pictures and videos don't lie. as I mentioned before there are significantly less number of coils that you can count on those samples...that is not a manufacturing variable, batching, or tolerance issue...it is by design. Machines don't wind 3 or 4 extra coils on a spring, nor do the pre cut wire lengths vary enough to even allow it.
...Second, as I read the ranges on minimum tensile strength, I see they overlap in the reference. That means without testing actual springs, you can't say that CZ and JnP springs are different in this characteristic.
You are repeating what I also noted in my post. But bear in mind two things. It is extremely expensive to reach that upper strength limit with a SC spring as compared to ASTM 228, because it is heat treated (within a short duration of time) after coiling/forming. Personally I don't question the material strength of either CZ or J&Ps springs because they both test out exactly how software predicts for their strength, sizing, design with the input material type....the software uses the same strength of material for CS as ASTM 228 in my case (unless I test the material and input a different variable myself.)
...Lastly, in modulus in torsion, or shear modulus, that refers to deformation of the spring from its long axis as it is compressed. So CS steel will bend more quickly and rub the inside of the firing pin shaft. Is that even a concern?..
This does make a difference, and a big one in regards to ignition consistancy. The much shorter CZ spring has a 9.6:1 length to diameter ratio and the aftermarket spring has a 10.8;1 ratio. Anything over 5:1 becomes more and more unstable according to all spring manufacturers. Now you might think that difference isn't much in numbers, it is....it is not a linear equation, the instability is logarithmic. This is why modern action designers are constantly striving to use shorter springs if at all possible. They can do this in many other ways, material choice/treatment, increasing wire diameter etc.. Action manufacturers recently also prefer to use pin around spring designs as opposed to spring around pins, radiused corners, enlargened pockets etc... Mr. Stillers fine actions for eg. even use melanite coatings to reduce friction issues even more so. Risk of entanglement, bowing, rubbing on interior parts causes inconsistancies in strength and consequently ignition. Other parts of the ignition process are altered to minimize this, its a no brainer to try and use as short spring as possible.
...So far, what I'm reading hasn't told me if there is a real difference in CZ or JnP springs. I have bought and used JnP springs and find them excellent. But many of my CZs still have the factory spring as well...
My main noted difference is in the wire size used, CZ's is thicker gage on all my samples tested over the past few years. Wire gage size is usually toleranced to +/- .00025" because they are drawn through progressive dies, if a wire measures a thousandths of an inch or more larger in diameter, that is by design, not a wide tolerance from my experience. My other noted difference is in actually compressing them to working length and recording the difference. I use a fixture with a digital strain gage to do this. Anyone with a drill press and even a bathroom scale can test a springs strength. Just put the shank of a 4mm drill into the chuck, the scale on the table and use the quill to compress the spring to working height...record the poundage on the scale. Its simple. This is a great way to benchmark your spring since you can pull it out of the gun years later and compare the measurement...tells you if its getting weaker. Sometimes on longer springs they become unstable when compressed so you find a bolt that fits the inside of the spring and put the spring over it. Open the drill chuck enough to clear the bolt and use its jaws to compress the spring down. Always make sure the spring remains relatively perpendicular to the table for an accurate measurement. If you want to get a spring constant measurement, compress the spring about 70% of its full range and set the depth stop on the drill press. Retest at this compression untill you get a repeatable measurement. Put a 1/2" sized something on top of the drill stop and measure again. Record the difference in weight and multiply by two to get the K constant in F in/lbs.
...Others see improved performance and better striker imprints on rims, and for them, that's reason enough to prefer the springs that give them better performance...
Increased performance and deeper strike indent are not mutually inclusive. The CZ 455 is designed to also ignite reliably a 22 magnum round which is thicker brass and larger diameter. If there was an issue with light hits on 22LR, there would be numerous complaints everywhere about the magnums not firing consistantly, or at all...and that is simply not the case.
CZ would not drop the ball on this, especially over a part that costs them literally nothing more to make stronger, if they wanted to. I have used weaker springs to get more performance on the dedicated 22LR 455's like numerous others here have also found, because it reduces the uneccesary vibration that gets sent down the barrel before the bullet leaves the muzzle. Of course, I don't throw away the stock spring, it can easily be switched out if you want to shoot the magnums with it. Bill Calfee and numerous other rimfire gurus make the same claim, you only want enough spring power to get the job reliably done, no more.
I won't argue about if J&P's tests agree with mine on springs, they don't...I just suggest that if someone wants to know for themselves, do a simple test like I mentioned above, its not rocket science. If you have an old spring thats worn and its not doing the job you want as far as ignition, get a stronger one. A far cheaper solution is to stick a 10 cent 6mm washer up in front of the spring and viola...you have another ~1/2 lb of strength on a stock spring. There is room to put quite a few in there if you wish because the stock spring wont go solid (close coils) until its compressed to 1.175". If your spring is fine, leave it alone. If its too strong, I suggest you get a weaker one and try that.
Personally, if my rifle can reliably ignite a magnum round, I know that spring is too strong to do it the best way possible on a 22LR round, check the SAAMI data on casing sizes/thickness and it bears this out. I could understand some people not bothering to change springs out according to magnum vs LR, and don't mind a bit of innacuracy because of it. I do so because its easy and takes about 30 seconds to do so.