22mag chemistry
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906 Posts
Yes. 
It's a bit of both actually, but mostly powder residue (burnt sulphur and potassium chloride) and not "pure" carbon. There are, of course, the inevitiable bits of UN-burnt powder in there as well.
If anybody remembers this better than I do please chime in!
- Dakotan
It's a bit of both actually, but mostly powder residue (burnt sulphur and potassium chloride) and not "pure" carbon. There are, of course, the inevitiable bits of UN-burnt powder in there as well.
If anybody remembers this better than I do please chime in!
- Dakotan
Joined
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401 Posts
S? KCl?
Wait a minute...
Where would the Sulfur and Potassium Chloride come from?
Black bowder guns would leave sulfur residue, but I'm not aware of sulfur being an ingredient in any modern "smokeless" RIMFIRE propellants (to avoid confusion with pyrodex - a so-called smokeless propellant, but not used in rimfires)
As for the potassium chloride...well...maybe, if the ammo manufacturer adds potassium chlorate to the primer mix, which is usually lead styphenate and finely-ground glass (to aid with ignition)
I would think the black residue would be deposits of carbon from the combustion of the propellant, which consists of a mixture of Nitrocellulose, Nitroglycerine and Dimethylaniline (as a stabilizer) along with other organic additives to enhance combustion, stability and cleanliness. When any organic compound burns, some of the combustion takes place "completely" that is, the material is reduced to water vapor and carbon. It's not a huge percentage, but some.
In addition to the carbon, there is lead from the primer and shavings from the bullet itself.
Add that to unburnt powder residue - keeps companies like Hoppe's in business.
Wait a minute...
Where would the Sulfur and Potassium Chloride come from?
Black bowder guns would leave sulfur residue, but I'm not aware of sulfur being an ingredient in any modern "smokeless" RIMFIRE propellants (to avoid confusion with pyrodex - a so-called smokeless propellant, but not used in rimfires)
As for the potassium chloride...well...maybe, if the ammo manufacturer adds potassium chlorate to the primer mix, which is usually lead styphenate and finely-ground glass (to aid with ignition)
I would think the black residue would be deposits of carbon from the combustion of the propellant, which consists of a mixture of Nitrocellulose, Nitroglycerine and Dimethylaniline (as a stabilizer) along with other organic additives to enhance combustion, stability and cleanliness. When any organic compound burns, some of the combustion takes place "completely" that is, the material is reduced to water vapor and carbon. It's not a huge percentage, but some.
In addition to the carbon, there is lead from the primer and shavings from the bullet itself.
Add that to unburnt powder residue - keeps companies like Hoppe's in business.
Joined
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906 Posts
Whoa! MAJOR DUH on my part!
You'll note the hour of my post....
This is approximately 3 hours AFTER my heaviest Medication dose of the day.
I plead HEAVILY medicated
Oh... yeah... SMOKELESS powder... they're using that regularly now, aren't they? WhoaMan!
Thanks for the RIGHT answer Artifex! :t
Take Care - Dakotan
You'll note the hour of my post....
This is approximately 3 hours AFTER my heaviest Medication dose of the day.
I plead HEAVILY medicated
Oh... yeah... SMOKELESS powder... they're using that regularly now, aren't they? WhoaMan!
Thanks for the RIGHT answer Artifex! :t
Take Care - Dakotan
Joined
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906 Posts
VERY well so far!
RB 82 on 12/05/02:
"The original version (NO SPACER) had about 3000 .17 HMR rounds thru it and it showed sign's of cracking on the inside edge's. that being said The magnum buffer has the same amount of rounds thru it plus 1000 round of Winchester Supremes. Took it out when I read your post, Checked it over no cracks no cuts, nothing looks almost brand new! I would say you have a winner"
Ryan"
With the new Nitrile spacer in place to correct the Bolt to Buffer geometry in the Mag receiver, I think these are going to hold up virtually as well as they do in 10/22 LRs. No problems so far!
Take Care! - Dakotan
RB 82 on 12/05/02:
"The original version (NO SPACER) had about 3000 .17 HMR rounds thru it and it showed sign's of cracking on the inside edge's. that being said The magnum buffer has the same amount of rounds thru it plus 1000 round of Winchester Supremes. Took it out when I read your post, Checked it over no cracks no cuts, nothing looks almost brand new! I would say you have a winner"
Ryan"
With the new Nitrile spacer in place to correct the Bolt to Buffer geometry in the Mag receiver, I think these are going to hold up virtually as well as they do in 10/22 LRs. No problems so far!
Take Care! - Dakotan
Joined
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401 Posts
Huh, I have a few of your original buffers in my 10/22 LR's
I wasn't aware you had a version with a nitrile spacer. Are those listed on your website? I'll need 2 of those.
One more question, do your hex-head screws fit the magnum? If so, I'll need 2 of those as well.
Let me know the price and your pay pal addy and I'll transfer you some funds.
I wasn't aware you had a version with a nitrile spacer. Are those listed on your website? I'll need 2 of those.
One more question, do your hex-head screws fit the magnum? If so, I'll need 2 of those as well.
Let me know the price and your pay pal addy and I'll transfer you some funds.
Dumber-user-mode = ON
I installed the Nitrile spacer with the bolt OUT ... and then had to remove it again so that I could refit the bolt
Which brings me to the point : is/will it be necessary to remove the pad EVERY time I want to clean/service the bolt ? If so, it doesn't look like the adhesive will "go another round"
I know the buffer shipped with two Nitrile pads, is this because they have to be removed ?
Or am I missing something REALLY obvious here ?
I installed the Nitrile spacer with the bolt OUT ... and then had to remove it again so that I could refit the bolt
Which brings me to the point : is/will it be necessary to remove the pad EVERY time I want to clean/service the bolt ? If so, it doesn't look like the adhesive will "go another round"
I know the buffer shipped with two Nitrile pads, is this because they have to be removed ?
Or am I missing something REALLY obvious here ?
Groucho,
I too, noticed that removing the bolt after installing the "spacer" wasn't quite as easy, on my Ruger Magnum.
It made it a little more difficult and kinda frustrating sometimes, but, not impossible.
I'm planning to "trim" the back edge of the receiver's rail, to make up the difference. Grinding off 1/16" shouldn't hurt anything.
I've taken the spacer out, twice, I don't think the "glue" will be able to handle a third time.
Quite frankly, I never thought that the spacer was necessary.
I too, noticed that removing the bolt after installing the "spacer" wasn't quite as easy, on my Ruger Magnum.
It made it a little more difficult and kinda frustrating sometimes, but, not impossible.
I'm planning to "trim" the back edge of the receiver's rail, to make up the difference. Grinding off 1/16" shouldn't hurt anything.
I've taken the spacer out, twice, I don't think the "glue" will be able to handle a third time.
Quite frankly, I never thought that the spacer was necessary.
Joined
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906 Posts
Artifex,
The Magnum Buffer includes a spacer that fits behind the Buffer to make up for the dimensional difference between the LR and Magnum receivers. They’re listed on my website along with the shorter Hex Takedown Screws for the Magnum. They’re ¼” shorter than the Takedown screws for the LR.
Everything is on the Contact / Order page on my site.
Take Care - Dakotan
The Magnum Buffer includes a spacer that fits behind the Buffer to make up for the dimensional difference between the LR and Magnum receivers. They’re listed on my website along with the shorter Hex Takedown Screws for the Magnum. They’re ¼” shorter than the Takedown screws for the LR.
Everything is on the Contact / Order page on my site.
Take Care - Dakotan
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