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What does Que do to the bolt, and how does it help?

I'm pretty big into AR's , 1911's bla bla bla and use Frog lube most of the time. I was curious what the best oil is for 10-22's. I'm guessing a very light coat of thin oil. I've been using oil I received from Benelli, they gave for my shotgun. Lightest stuff I have.

Any feedback appreciated.

PB
 

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He sets the headspace and squares the face, sets the firing pin protrusion and pins the firing pin, then he works the extractor for perfect engagement. All that is for consistent operation.

I prefer using CLP.
 

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What RCP said about the bolt and, used properly beginning with where it says something like Shake The Contents Well Before Each Use, the “L” properties of CLP (also something Teflon) gets left behind. Dose the parts pretty good then allow it plenty soak in time for the “C” to lift the remaining funk out the pores so it’ll be wiped away along with all standing liquids leaving behind only the good stuff (like the L & P properties) but nothing to invite the buildup of a slimy goo that will only attract even more funk including the larger crunchies that’ll accelerate wear while it’s gumming up the works.
 

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What RCP said about the bolt and, used properly, the "L" properties of CLP (also something Teflon) gets left behind. Dose the parts pretty good then allow it plenty soak in time for the "C" to lift the remaining funk out the pores so it'll be wiped away along with all standing liquids leaving behind only the good stuff (like the L & P properties) but nothing to invite the buildup of a slimy goo that will only attract even more funk including the larger crunchies that'll accelerate wear while it's gumming up the works.
Darn! That even confused me! LOL - Yea, what he said!
 

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I started out using oil, learned my lesson, used Liquid Wrench Dry Lube with Cerflon, then switched to Hornady One Shot. I like the One Shot for the lack of white residue, and it appears to lube the action well enough. I can go a long time between breaking it down to clean. Before every shoot, I retract the bolt and give the roof of the receiver a generous blast of One Shot, then good to go for hundreds of rounds. I use a bent bore brush and swab to clean the chamber only, not the bore, with Rem-Oil every several hundred rounds. I will clean the barrels when accuracy falloff dictates it. All my bolts have been Que'd. That's my 2 cents.
 

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BreakFree CLP has never failed me and does a great job of Cleaning, Lubrication, and Protection.

I will admit that I do use choke tube grease on my shotguns with choke tubes. The theory is that the grease plugs the threads and keeps the blast gas out, but I have never seen convincing evidence either way on that claim.
 

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Que also radiuses the bottom rear edge of the bolt so it rides more smoothly over the hammer, and polishes the top and sides where the bolt slides against the receiver.

I prefer a dry-film lube such as Liquid Wrench, Eezox, or Dupont Multi-Purpose (the last I also use on my motorcycle and bicycle chains because it doesn't hold dirt). Oils, even my favorite Ballistol, seem to sludge up fairly quickly.
 

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Que also radiuses the bottom rear edge of the bolt so it rides more smoothly over the hammer, and polishes the top and sides where the bolt slides against the receiver.

I prefer a dry-film lube such as Liquid Wrench, Eezox, or Dupont Multi-Purpose (the last I also use on my motorcycle and bicycle chains because it doesn't hold dirt). Oils, even my favorite Ballistol, seem to sludge up fairly quickly.
Ditto. 10/22s are not ARs or 1911s or any other firearm. They have the potential to gunk up faster than any other firearm I have. All my 10/22s get DuPont dry lube only because they simply stay cleaner way longer.
 

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I have been using HBN( hexagonal boron nitride) powder for a while now. It is amazing stuff, super slick. I also put bullets in a tumbler and coat them with it.

It's a white fluffy powder, nontoxic, and is even used in cosmetics such as creams, lotions and lipsticks to add a feeling of smoothness or slickness. If you look at a liquid cosmetic product and see what looks like pearlescent swirls, that is HBN. The only real caution is not to inhale it.

It being dry, does not attract dirt and grit from firing, in fact tends to keep it from sticking. I just take a hardware store acid brush ( for appling acid solder flux) and brush it on. I have suspended it in oil and added to grease to add slickness, and even suspended in alcohol to make a suspension that will leave a dry film and have had good results with all applications.

Being white it is excellent for my stainless Rugers.
 
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