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17VS....stocks??

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Just wondering if you guys that purchased the Marlin 17VS are leaving the stock as is or are you purchasing another stock for it.
What style and from where????

I can not stand to leave a gun in the orig. have to change something........:rolleyes:
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I am happy with the VS's stock and don't plan on changing it in any way.

:t

Just check to make sure your barrel does not have any contact points and is "completely" free floated. I had one small contact point took less then five minutes to solve that problem. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Intec Corp.........did you by any chance do anything to the groove for the barrel. Like free float it. The stock is nice enough for sure. All the weapons that I have are free floated and I love it. Just wondering about the 17VS? Plus I guess a "Tuner" could be added at a later date...........
 

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Coyote,

The 17VS's come from the factory with free floated barrels. Sometimes there is some contact point(s) where the barrel comes is contact with the stock. At the end of my forearm on my VS the barrel was touching the stock. I just relieved that small area and then sealed it with "wood finish".

One common way to check to see if your barrel in free floated is to run a crisp dollar bill under the barrel. If it stops then you need to relieve that area. Now the first inch or two just in front of the receiver will be bedded that is ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Geeesssssss: That shows you how much attention I payed to mine...............Now if I can barrow a dollar from my wife..........i will try to see if its free floated.
 

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How to float??

I have just recently purchased a 17VS myself and the barrel touches the stock towards the last 1-2 inches. I was wondering how you guys go about free floating your barrels?? Sandpaper etc. ????
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I just tried the $1.00 dollar bill trick to see if my 17VS was free floated. I could not get the dollar even started down the barrel. It appears that the barrel is touching all over. Where is my dowl and sandpaper............Buckeye: my stock shows that the last two inches before the action is about 1/16" higher. But that is where the bolt is that holds down the barrel. Not sure that this area should be releived.
 

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To free float the barrel...I used a 5/8" socket and wrapped sandpaper around it. Then I moved up to a 11/16" socket. It keeps the barrel channel uniform.

Now I need to see what areas need to be taken out to bed this action.

Take care,

Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
BuckeyeATC

Dowel and sandpaper. Never thought of the socket.

Had to go back and read what Intec stated:
The 17VS's come from the factory with free floated barrels. Sometimes there is some contact point(s) where the barrel comes is contact with the stock. At the end of my forearm on my VS the barrel was touching the stock. I just relieved that small area and then sealed it with "wood finish".
This should answer the question
 

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Maybe meant that way!

A couple guys at the sporting goods store where I bought my 17VS told me that they thought it was supposed to touch up near the front. Mine is just about like the ones that have been described. They called it a pressure point, or contact point, or something like that.
Before I consider doing anything to the barrel I need to mount the scope and install the Rifle Basix trigger. Then get to the range when the weather breaks and see how it will shoot.
The factory trigger has plenty of creep and just over a #5 pull.
Keep me posted. Has anyone checked with Marlin?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Has anyone checked with Marlin
Kimberman:

That would like reading the instructions before you do a project.........whats the fun in that...........lol.......:D

or as I have been told many times.

If all else fails..........Read the dang instructions.........oh my....
:rolleyes:
 

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Just bought my .17vs tonight. Working on the trigger and stock. Just swapped out the trigger spring and the petzel spring worked nice.

For other .17vs owners.....does the rear tang area come into contact with the stock? I understand that there needs to be some clearance for the pin on the bolt assembly, but the tang should be able to rest on the stock....or should it free float?

Thanks!
 

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On my VS the rear of the action does not come in contact with the stock. Pressure point maybe any benefit no.

Another thing I keep recommending is polishing the bolt makes all the difference in the world. Before polishing I could lift the bolt and then hold the rifle upside down and the bolt wouldn't move.

After polishing the bolt slides back just as smooth as could be. My next modification is "mag shortening" well if I don't trade my VS for something else. Just finished the 77/17 and don't know If I still need the VS?

Tough decision

:D
 

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More details as requested by Coyote.... (PM)

I used a "dremel rotary tool" with a "fabric polishing wheel. The polish was applied directly to the wheel.

Step by Step

- Disassemble the bolt including extractor/case support "claw." (it is not necessary to disassemble the striker/spring ect).

- Polish each individual piece in a circular motion. On small parts ect a circular motion is not necessary. I did not polish the face of the bolt you can if you would like. But remember a course compound can/will remove metal and chould change head spacing.

- Whip off any excess polish on bolt ect.

- Reassemble bolt and your done it's as easy as that. :t

Shouldn't take more than an hour at most. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Intec Corp
Thanks..........that answered some questions for me....off to the work bench......:t
 
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