[gcrank1]

A typical,sporting 22 has a ‘field chamber’, it is a bit on the loose and long side, and in a semi-auto they may be a bit looser than in a bolt action. Manufacturers dont want failure to feed or extract issues....
Match chambers, which vary, are min. dimensions and short enough that the bullets often engage the rifling. Some ammo is fatter and the driving band farther forward so fully seating issues can arise, especially in semi-autos.
Since we are concerned with the 10/22 here we will say that the better than field chambers for a semi-auto arent ‘quite as tight/short’ as for a bolt action but an improvement over the oem chambers. Reports are that the oem barrels shoot quite well after this work is done. Then ammo becomes the search.
How so? The accuracy is greatly affected by the all important chamber throat and reliable/consistent ignition by min. headspace, all good things. The re-work of the barrel via setback and a touch with the right reamer and the bolt squared/trued and headspaced bets your ‘launch platform’ in order.
Aftermarket barrels already have the better chambers, you still may want or need bolt work or a replacement bolt. No sense in having a poor trigger if you get those others upgraded.

 

[dave19113]

Thanks for all the info folks. Im going to 1st mount the Williams peep on the receiver, upgrade some internal parts on the trigger then shoot it for accuracy.

If its still not to my liking then Ill be deciding between sending it out for the tune up or dropping in the new barrel.

 

[PEASHOOTER67]

For a walking woods gun I personally would be looking at a light barrel “i.e. Tac-Sol, Kidd ect.” Then a 4x32 or 4x40 single power glass.

Supper supper light and quick acquisition of target. Real pleasure to carry and shoot.

Just an opinion that’s all. I have astigmatism in both of my eyes so open sights have not been much of an option to me since my youth. I didn’t start needing classes till my late teens and was forced into glasses full time by my mid 20’s.

I’m my opinion open sights that include the receiver on a 10/22 isn’t an option unless the barrel and receiver are true to each other so I would leave them on the barrel.

"The biggest communication problem is we don't listen to understand, we listen to reply"

 

[dave19113]

For a walking woods gun I personally would be looking at a light barrel "i.e. Tac-Sol, Kidd ect." Then a 4x32 or 4x40 single power glass.

Supper supper light and quick acquisition of target. Real pleasure to carry and shoot.

Just an opinion that's all. I have astigmatism in both of my eyes so open sights have not been much of an option to me since my youth. I didn't start needing classes till my late teens and was forced into glasses full time by my mid 20's.

I'm my opinion open sights that include the receiver on a 10/22 isn't an option unless the barrel and receiver are true to each other so I would leave them on the barrel.

"The biggest communication problem is we don't listen to understand, we listen to reply"

Thanks for the reply. I toyed with the idea of a lighter barrel but then I figured with the off set of just iron sights I made up the weight difference in the barrel. My shooting eye (left) is still good luckily and always loved the quick natural sight picture, for me, with a peep sight.

For me, the added benefit was the Feddersen barrel from what I was reading anyway. But I have been wrong before so my theory may be skewed.

As for the receiver to front sight iron sight set up. I would think that if the front sight was drilled true on the barrel and the fact that the 10-22 barrels are held in by the 2 bolt clamp it should be true to the receiver. ( At least I hope anyway )

My new Federrsen fluted should be in Tuesday so I will test out the theory.

 

[PEASHOOTER67]

Thanks for the reply. I toyed with the idea of a lighter barrel but then I figured with the off set of just iron sights I made up the weight difference in the barrel. My shooting eye (left) is still good luckily and always loved the quick natural sight picture, for me, with a peep sight.

For me, the added benefit was the Feddersen barrel from what I was reading anyway. But I have been wrong before so my theory may be skewed.

As for the receiver to front sight iron sight set up. I would think that if the front sight was drilled true on the barrel and the fact that the 10-22 barrels are held in by the 2 bolt clamp it should be true to the receiver. ( At least I hope anyway )

My new Federrsen fluted should be in Tuesday so I will test out the theory.

Quite frequently you will find ruger 10/22 receivers that have a left hand cant barrel/receiver fit issue. The more the cant the less accurate your open sight or scope will be depending on the distance the sights are set at versus actual shooting distance.

This has been such and issue over the recent years that cpc actually specializes in fixing it as one of their services.

"The biggest communication problem is we don't listen to understand, we listen to reply"

 

[dave19113]

Quite frequently you will find ruger 10/22 receivers that have a left hand cant barrel/receiver fit issue. The more the cant the less accurate your open sight or scope will be depending on the distance the sights are set at versus actual shooting distance.

This has been such and issue over the recent years that cpc actually specializes in fixing it as one of their services.

"The biggest communication problem is we don't listen to understand, we listen to reply"

Ok, I wasn't aware of that. I did order the barrel with irons that are mounted on the barrel. So if it is worst case scenario of a cant I can always just use the Feddersen sights

I do have a Williams receiver mount peep that I had planned to use. Im guessing it will be apparent when looking through the peep at the front sight.

 

[PEASHOOTER67]

Ok, I wasn't aware of that. I did order the barrel with irons that are mounted on the barrel. So if it is worst case scenario of a cant I can always just use the Feddersen sights

I do have a Williams receiver mount peep that I had planned to use. Im guessing it will be apparent when looking through the peep at the front sight.

This is with factory receivers. Not an issue with after market receivers.

"The biggest communication problem is we don't listen to understand, we listen to reply"

 

[Wotan]

I like the Feddersen barrels because he does not plaster his name all over it.
It makes for a much cleaner looking rifle when it does not look like a billboard.

As far as sights I wonder if you could use a Tech sights, they make a Dove tail adapter for bull barrels

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[dave19113]

I like the Feddersen barrels because he does not plaster his name all over it.
It makes for a much cleaner looking rifle when it does not look like a billboard.

As far as sights I wonder if you could use a Tech sights, they make a Dove tail adapter for bull barrels

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Well Im going to not get ahead of myself just yet. barrel is due in tues. So the 1st Ill do is mount and shoot it with the Williams receiver mount peep I already have installed.

If I run into an issue then Ill have to start looking into the barrel mounted sight. I do have a barrel mounted peep on already and do like it. I just wanted the longer sight radius if possible.

Ido like those peep sights you listed though.

 

[gcrank1]

A barrel with sights has several check points.
The barrel top dovetails should be 180 degrees from the bottom v-block cut.
They all have flats so they can be checked to each other with as simple as some 1/4” lathe tool stock or probably ‘key stock’ from your hardware store and a small, but good level. If you have fancier machinist stuff you know how to use them for this check.
Once these are verified as true then the v-block flat should be used to index the barrel up to the action/v-block mount before being tightened down. At the same time you need to check the extractor is properly hitting the extractor cut in the barrel breech. (Btw, If you have some luck your scope rail will also be level, if not shim it whichever side with some pop can shims; this can be done last)
With this properly done the barrel, action, sights and extractor will be properly in line and the v-block screws can be torqued to 10-12 INCH #s. Note that not indexing via the flats will likely result in barrel ‘cant’ (ie, front sight tipped left or right in rotation)and uneven pressure on the v-block. Only a smidge off can be several degrees. The Gunsmither Block is easier to mount up because of no v-block inclined ramp effect and the top flat of the GS’er block lines up the barrel birdsmouth flat.
This does not address ‘barrel droop’ (unless using the Gunsmither Block) or ‘barrel pointing off left or right’ (ie, out of alignment with the action) all things that can happen even though those ‘flats’ line up.
The Extractor cut to extractor is critical to function so if (IF) any compromise needs to be made for function it is just the way things are. Any barrel properly machined will have had the dovetail and v-block cuts made in the right relationship to the extractor cut.