It has been my experience the pull weight is usually high and not very crisp on 10/22s. I have a couple on order and thought I'd get some trigger parts lined up while I wait.
The trigger is stock factory 10/22, as is most of the rifle. I hadn't even put a round through it before I swapped out the trigger group for one I had already worked with an RT pull release, dropped in a worked bolt with an RT charging handle, and put on a cheapie little red dot.
Gotta say, it shot really well! I was just shooting off hand at reactive targets, but I was very surprised by how well it was shooting. I think that take down mechanism may prove to be a more accurate method than the V block.
in the neighborhood of a stock 10/22 carbine trigger.
I think my 10/22TD trigger is a bit nicer than the one on my 10/22Intl with the Mannlicher stock (MannlicherMannlicherMannlicherMannlicherMannlicher - fun to say!)
But not dramatically better, probably just luck of the draw.
I've been considering getting one or two really nice 10/22 triggers and bolts and just moving them among the 4 rifles, myself. One has some VQ drop-in stuff and the rest are stock.
Just polish the flats in the trigger group. Then use a medium grit knife sharpening stone on the hammer sear (which you should already have). Then pick up a set of Spyderco ceramic stones(or any other ultra fine ceramic stone) and polish that hammer sear shelf. A chepo magnifying glass helps to make sure it is even, since it's easy to get it less than square by hand and naked eye.
That's it....check your work frequently by putting it all back together and using a trigger lb gauge. Stop around 3lbs....for now...you will be amazed. The tools for this will cost a little over one aftermarket trigger kit...but then you can do a many many more for..."free".
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