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10/22 Slick up

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Man, I can't believe how many posts I see about the 10/22 jamming. I own a stainless model now, and have owned others over time. I can honestly say that the only rounds I ever had trouble with were "subsonics". But there again, the first thing I do when I get mine new is polish everything.
I take it apart and polish the bolt very good. I do this with Iosso Gun brite or Flitz on a dremel with a felt polisher turned up to about 15000 rpm. I have found on the bolt that sometimes the roll pin is not ground enough and is not flush with the bolt itself. This would create a slight bind on the action. So I use a stone on this area and make it flush with the bolt. Then it is time to move on to the receiver itself. I polish that by hand with Iosso or Flitz. If it looks rough enough in goes the dremel for that job too, but at a lower RPM(7500 or so). I usually spend a lot of time at the breech face area making sure that area is VERY slick so the rounds will just flow. I don't polish the extractor at all. As far as the trigger group goes I've never had much luck with one, and can't reduce the pull, but I can get it to a smoother consistency. I've never polished one too much using the above methods(in other words, never worn it out). Another thing too is polishing the chamber mouth and barrel face. That gets a nice polishing too. And another thing worth doing is the old JB Bore Cleaner and the JB Bore Brite treatment followed with Kroil. I take the barrel off and do all that. When I am finished doing that I put Militec-1 on the bolt and all receiver parts. The trick with Militec-1 is to heat the metal with something like a hair dryer, either before application or after. This starts the chemical process that bonds it to the metal. Before you guys go all crazy on me, I don't get paid anything or get a kick-back from speaking of Militec-1. I just know it works for me. I use it in my truck too, and increased gas mileage from 20mpg to 23mpg. The stuff works. And has served me well with all my other firearms as well.
I hope this helps some of the people with problems, maybe someone else has already said this before. But throwing it in nonetheless.
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good stuff

ppcrusa...great minds must think alike cause ive done basically the same thing on my ruger 22/45. Im currently performing this work on my friends 10-22, in return for "borrowing" it ( I dont mind, its fun and im prepping for my 10-22...after im out of school)
Polishing is one of the best improvments that can be done to most guns in my opinion. Ive even done the firing pin to reduce friction there.
As for Militec-its GREAT stuff. It cuts cleaning in half. I actualy coated the reciever...than put it in the oven at 175 degrees for 20 minutes. I than took it out (careful hot) and rubbed in another coat, this was put back in the oven and allowed to cool. Multiple coats in the bore over time have made cleaning a breeze. it displaces moisture and inhibits rust, even if its wiped dry, which is what I like. I would love to put the stuff in my Honda, but I cant afford it at the moment. I will someday soon.

wow I just did an infomercial.

p.s.-did you polish your recoil spring assembly? I think that would make a huge difference.
 

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Flitz

When you polish the reciever, bolt and chamber with Flitz, do you use the paste, or the liquid (Case polish)?

I have a Volq hammer in mine, but I was wondering about polishing the sear contact surfaces with Flitz. Would this possibly take out the small amount of creep that I have in my trigger?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I use the paste. Flitz paste is very mild. The Iosso is a bit more aggressive. It does it quicker, and it suitable on feed ramps, etc. But I would not put it in a bore. Flitz is what I usually use after the Iosso for that final polish. Even by hand, without a Dremel, both products do a good job. Another use too for both is the bolt of the MKII. On a stainless model, you know those little scratches that form on the bolt after being shot?? Well.. Use either one a bit by hand or Dremel, and those scratches are not as noticeable. I actually found a notched out place on my sear of the MKII I bought. Do not know why that would have left he factory, but if I had not torn it down first and smoothed that out it would have had a mighty catchy creepy trigger. Some people won't agree with polishing a new weapon. But it's my way of "bonding" with a new one before I even shoot it. Once I tear one down and work it over a little I know just about what to expect from it on the range.
The bore of my MKII was fairly rough, and the JB Bore process smoothed it out. Another great product for people using mostly lead bullets is Mpro-7 bore cleaner.No smell, and it strips everything, even oils. Doesn't do much with Copper, but lead and powder residue is quickly defeated. And the bore squeaks after using that stuff. hehe. It's a good first step in the JB Bore process. Sure better than smelling Kleenbore Bore cleaner, or Shooter's Choice.
In my frame itself was also a lot of roughness where the hammer rides. I polished it some, and that just didn't do it. I almost used the stone on it, but did not. Next tear down I will go back in and see where the parts are showing wear and know that is the area I need to smooth out some more. Those little wear marks are good indicators of where some possible smoothing and polishing would do good.
As far as great mind.. hehe. Mine is about burnt out doing the work I do every day, and believe it or not, cleaning and polishing my weapons is very relaxing to me. (except getting the receiver assembly off the frame of the MKII!)
Anyone that doesn't have Militec-1 or does not believe in it should try another product they feel comfortable with. Another one I like is Shooter's Choice FP-10 Lubricant Elite. It's a good traditional petroleum based lube, and smells of cinnamon.
Another good one I have used is Super Lube in the little applicator pens. Nice Teflon based stuff.
Experiment and find what works best for you. One rule though, don't ever take metal off drastically if working with a stone. Do a little at a time.. Put the hammer back in and feel the travel after polishing or stoning. You don't want it wobbling. And one last thing. A mostly overlooked area is the hammer PIN. Polish that too.
 

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one thing that i like that im thinking of trying in the 10/22 once its broken in is Miss Molly...this stuff is AWSOME...its a bullet lube but it works wonders on guns too. me and my dad use it on the 1911 and p220...put it between all the moving parts you want slicked up (barrel bushing, full length guiderod, slide rails etc...) and in the barrel, and you can shoot the gun dry with absolutely NO probelms...wonderful stuff...
 
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