10/22 magnum
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Chum_Bucket
1st and foremost I would put in an Volquartsen Exact Edge Extractor.
2nd I would suggest a new target hammer. Volquartsen makes a fine one but there are many out there.
And thirdly, I would put the best scope you can afford on it, with the most magnification feasable for the type of shooting you'll be doing. Can't hit what ya can't see. I use a 4-16 AO on mine but I do mainly hunting with it ... sqwirrls mostly.
You can do all these swaps yourself. Lots of threads on this forum to answer any installation questions you may have. Especially the one that says "Have a ball with it".
Chum_Bucket
1st and foremost I would put in an Volquartsen Exact Edge Extractor.
2nd I would suggest a new target hammer. Volquartsen makes a fine one but there are many out there.
And thirdly, I would put the best scope you can afford on it, with the most magnification feasable for the type of shooting you'll be doing. Can't hit what ya can't see. I use a 4-16 AO on mine but I do mainly hunting with it ... sqwirrls mostly.
You can do all these swaps yourself. Lots of threads on this forum to answer any installation questions you may have. Especially the one that says "Have a ball with it".
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1,905 Posts
I will be getting your package for sure Dakotan. I really need to do something about the trigger. I did my 77 trigger myself by stoning the sear. It really turnered out nice. I am going to have to pass on anything expensive for a while. It cost me $620 to build this 10/17. It has 45 rounds through it so far without any problems.
Is the trigger easy to fix by stoning the sear on a 10/22 like the 77?
Is the trigger easy to fix by stoning the sear on a 10/22 like the 77?
Chief Says : The trick to the 77 is the sear.
For the 10-22 OR 10-22 magnum . The trick is the hammer ,
Best bet is to buy a Volquartsen hammer . That alone will
give you great results.
The sear in the 10-22 is most always left alone. Unless you
want to do the JB Weld trick to eliminate the free travel.
If you must stone = stone the bottom of the hammer. STONE
straight across the notch . do not enter the notch !.
Best to stop around " pull weight of 2.5 lbs " below 2 lb
is the "UNSAFE ZONE".
Yes : same hammer fer LR or Magnum.
May consider campfering the rear of the bolt . ofcourse the
aftermarket extractor is a big plus.
Polish the bottom and face of the bolt , along with the recoil rod.
For the 10-22 OR 10-22 magnum . The trick is the hammer ,
Best bet is to buy a Volquartsen hammer . That alone will
give you great results.
The sear in the 10-22 is most always left alone. Unless you
want to do the JB Weld trick to eliminate the free travel.
If you must stone = stone the bottom of the hammer. STONE
straight across the notch . do not enter the notch !.
Best to stop around " pull weight of 2.5 lbs " below 2 lb
is the "UNSAFE ZONE".
Yes : same hammer fer LR or Magnum.
May consider campfering the rear of the bolt . ofcourse the
aftermarket extractor is a big plus.
Polish the bottom and face of the bolt , along with the recoil rod.
Joined
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1,905 Posts
Thanks guys
I finally had an ejection problem. The spent case was stuck above the mag. 1 out of 100 isn't bad though. It really isn't even broke in yet. The target hammer and reliability pakage sounds like my best route. I am still thinking about the bolt campfering. It sounds easy enough and I have looked over the sticky. It does sound like it would be easier on hammer wear. I surely want to polish the parts that would help. I need a bit of advice on that part. I have some Flitz. Will it do the trick? Also which part of the bolt face am I polishing? The rim where it meets the breech or the recessed part that meets the case head. I have some moly fusion also. Should these polished surfaces also be moly treated?
I finally had an ejection problem. The spent case was stuck above the mag. 1 out of 100 isn't bad though. It really isn't even broke in yet. The target hammer and reliability pakage sounds like my best route. I am still thinking about the bolt campfering. It sounds easy enough and I have looked over the sticky. It does sound like it would be easier on hammer wear. I surely want to polish the parts that would help. I need a bit of advice on that part. I have some Flitz. Will it do the trick? Also which part of the bolt face am I polishing? The rim where it meets the breech or the recessed part that meets the case head. I have some moly fusion also. Should these polished surfaces also be moly treated?
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