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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a new 10/22 converted to 17 hmr. I shot 27 rounds of 22 mag through it the day I got it and it worked flawlessly. I since put a hammer and sear,trigger,buffer and magnum research .17 barrel. While doing this I noticed
no.B8 ejector fit really tight in the slot it falls in I mean (Tight) to the point I have to pry it up out of the slot!! If I remember right my 10/22 LR fits loose in the slot. Today I sighted it in as a 17 and it acts like a bolt action gun after every shot I have to pull the bolt back to eject the spent round and load the next one. it has the new dual extractors as does the MR barrel have dual slots. should I make B8 fit loose. What's has me baffled is it worked fine with 22 mag rounds? I just want your opinion before I loosen the slot up?

Don
 

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holepuncher said:
I just looked and figured out that this can't have any thing to do with my problem but I still have one! aproblem that is!
Right leave the ejector be, it needs to be just like it is, I looked at the same thing when I was having trouble

things to do!!

first get a volquartsen exact edge extractor

Second polish the operating rod real good.

I would also add a weaponkraft magnum recoil buffer

It may take a few rounds to get the barrel broke in, make sure you keep the chamber clean. If this does not work, and you put 100 rounds thru her, I would cut 2 coils off the recoil spring at a time, no more than 6. I did this, and ended up replacing the spring because it was not my problem, the polishing of tech recoil rod fixed mine, along with a new sear. The sear in mine was a bad excuse for a sear, so the hammer was riding forward with the bolt causing a firing out of battery etc .

All that post, and 98% of the time the VQ extractor fixes em LOL
 

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Agree with Clint. VQ extractor & WK buffer help.

Also: When you install a new barrel, you MUST make sure the extractor lines up with the extractor slot on the barrel.

This can only be done by eye-balling the extractor in the slot.

If the extractor rubs either side of the slot, you need to loosen & rotate your barrel a tad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes I paid real close attention to slot alignment when I installed. I will order the VQ extractor In the morning. I had a Clark extractor that I just installed before this post to see if it helps what has me baffeled is it never stolve pipes I beleive you call it when a empty gets jammed. And it ejects fine when pulling the bolt back by hand like the bolts not coming all the way back like Clint was saying. I ordered a WK buffer last week and take down screw. I have a clark buffer in it now. I am about to take the mag apart in a min. at one point it would not push rounds to the top to be feed.
 

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Clean that chamber good, and polish the recoil rod, if clark makes a extractor like they do barrels they are top notch!! I would at least get a VQ extractor since clark does reccomend the dual extractors, run the VQ only, remove the inside extractor, do this and polish teh recoil rod, use a dry lube. Tell us how it works. Just have to eliminate each pissible cause one at a time, of course a $10 VQ extractor is the easiest, and polishing the recoil rod (I took the charging handle off mine, used a drill, 400grit, 600, 800, 1000, and I may have used 2000 LOL what i had around, finished with a fin metal polish, took about 20 minutes total)

It does sound like the bolt is not getting a full cycle, not even enough to pick up the next round out of the magazine. After I polished my guide, recoil rod whatever it's called, I replaced the spring that I had cut, and even added a small shim in the back. If you can get it to where it will cycle, after you put a couple hundred rounds down the tube, keeping the chamber clean seems to really make the auto break in good, maybe the chamber seasons ?

Clint
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Clint I was sitting here wondering how you got the spring off the rod?
the only way I see is get one loop off and wind it off one loop at a time?
It does seem like the spring want's to coil bind when I compress it.

Don
 

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Where the charging handle is, pull it back, you will see to raised places that keeps the charging handle in place, start with a file, then use a course grit sand paper to get the rest.

other have posted where they simply pull the spring and charging handle back as far as they can, clamp it by some means and polish. Then do the same thing in the other direction.

Note**** a drill really makes fast work of this

Also do a search, "polish operting rod, recoil rod

Clint
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I now have a VQ extractor and a very clean chamber and barrel. fired the Rifle yesterday 20 rounds the gun seems to be cycling now (no longer single shot) I think because it's getting looser shot 40 rounds of 20 grains two days ago. but now it's stovepipping once in every three or four rounds. I have also polished the bolt rod as recomended.
 

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"Factory-itis"

You suffer the "New action plague".
The good news is: There's a cure.
You can dis-assemble the action, and smooth all of the cycling surfaces (Hammer, receiver top and rails, re-coil rod, etc.), or, you can shoot it a whole bunch, until this "sticking" goes away. I like to do both.
Keep your chamber/barrel clean by running a patch every few magazines (don't use cleaning stuff or oil, just run a dry patch), and when you get a chance, do something about the chamber, like a good polishing/lapping, and/or Moly Fusion treatment, it'll do wonders for your cycling "issues".
Also, make sure your charging handle is all of the way forward when it is still a newer action, not worn in yet, they like to hang open when a round is not fully chambered, and create "Some real excitement" when the rifle fires with the bolt still open a smidge, bring some ear/eye protection, and ALWAYS use it. :t :Blasting_
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey Skeeter couple of questions if you don't mind.
I found your old post on your trigger a blast to read. if you was to buy store bought hammer and sear what would you go with? or whole trigger group?
I own and enjoy shooting quality air rifles and my best is a RX1 sold thru Beeman and it has a nice trigger that is adjustable and I have it set down around 1 lb and love it! Also where do you buy this molly fusion? I have moly lube past-grease at my Yamaha shop I use it on various bearings during assembly.
Very hard to remove from hands! It's like grafite impregnated lube. Also basicly you like deburing everything and polishing for the smoothest travel and movement possible.
 

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Holepuncher, you asked "where do you buy this molly fusion?"

Here is a post to help you directly I hope is "O.K." for you.

Here is some more information along with where.

I apologize searching online for "molly fusion" won't help, but take one "l" out.

:

As a Team RFC member, you can check out
Sponsor Anouncements for Specials active now,
for the current discount. Or you can search at google.com,
under molyfusion or just type in moly fusion or molyfusion
in the address bar and enter,
but you would have to add the discount manually.

The anouncement gives a hotlink with directions.

If you already ordered unaware of discount, send an e-mail
to the website [email protected] with your order number in it with
a request, and it can be
modified after-the-fact if you want it after ordering.
 
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