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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, maybe someone can help me out...

I just bought a used 10/22 receiver and have a problem that I hope someone knows something about. I put it in a factory stock w/ a factory barrel but when I shoot it, the bolt stays open. You can pull the bolt back, push the bolt release and the bolt will go forward. I took the trigger assembly apart and it is assembled correctly. (I compared to another 10/22). Has anyone ever seen this? I can't replicate the problem without shooting the gun.

Thanks,
Adrian
[email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Oh, yeah,

My other 10/22 has a 98 stampted in a webbed circle on the trigger assembly and it's serial number starts with 240-xxxxx. This serial number is 121-xxxxx, but it doesn't have a number stamped on the trigger assembly. Is the 98 a year of manufacture? Do those first three digits give any indication of the year of manufacture? I called a buddy and he thinks his 10/22 is from the 70's and his serial starts with 120-xxxxx. Could my 121-xxxxx be from the 70's as well?
 

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I'm going to say who ever put it to gether last did not make sure the end of the bolt release spring was on top of the "tab" with a little notch in it. If this is not the case you may have a week spring. One more thing I have heard of some one haveing this prob shooting Velociters. Sorry I stink at describing things.:p
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That's OK, I know exactly what you are talking about. I checked and it was assembled correctly. I even took it apart and put it back together.

Found out it was made in 81, thanks Rimfire Junkie.
 

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Bad auto bolt release modification

Looks to me like you need to finish modifying the auto bolt release feature. I suspect your bolt release is not dropping out of the way so it drags on the bottom of the bolt and then occasionally catches on the recess of the bolt. You need to work on the top of the oval hole. When the trigger group is assembled correctly, you should be able to push on the bolt hold open from the front of the trigger guard and when you release it, the part sticking over the top of the trigger guard should drop below flush every time. If not, grind mettle off the top and front of the bolt stop hole (caution not the outside of the stop, only the front and top margin of the big hole). I have also seen some bolt stops that wanted to get stuck on the hammer bushing on the way down. you can debur and possibly chamfer the bottom part of the bolt lock if it hangs up there so it will fall with pressure from the little spring only. No jiggling should be required to release the bolt lock. Only light rearward pressure on the bolt handle should be needed. If you can't save the bolt lock, just get a new one and move on. Your gun looks like its in great shape. Often, great deals come along because somebody did something stupid and couldn't figure out how to make it work right. rc
 

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Seeing how the bolt release isnt too important, try shooting without it, if it still doesnt work, then ya know its something else. If it works, either mess with the part or go buy a auto bolt release for $5 shipped off ebay.
Anyone disagree?
 

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Your picture isn't all that clear, but you can compare the difference I'm talking about. Check out this area and see if it is somehow hanging up in the action.

If that finger is bent down like it appears to be in your photo, it wouldn't have the required spring tension to keep it down, and the recoil might be throwing it up into the locked position.

I'd suppose it is possible that that is an optical illusion, but somehow, I don't think so.

Ron
 

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I believe ya got it Ron

If that arm is bent and it did'nt
put enough tention on the spring,that would cause it to jump up when the bolt slambs the bolt stop.

A-Bolt, I remember the post on the Velocitors also.

Hmmm I guess the same thing could happen if ya had a weak recoil spring.(?)
 

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After studying that part for a while, here's what I'm thinking.

I think whoever tried relieving the opening to make an auto release out of it didn't quite get it right and couldn't make it work because of the flat grind instead of putting a mild concave curve to it, so they bent the spring retainer arm down hoping that would solve the problem of the hold open not working as planned.

Presto. A whole new inadvdertant hold open "invention".

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It does look like the bolt hold open is a little funny. I've reposted a closeup of the piece. The bent part does look right, but the big hole is shiny in a place as if it might have been worked on with a dremel. I'll bring another 10/22 upstairs tomorrow to see how it looks.

 

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That arm appears to be bent in the direection of the arrow. If it is, it's probable that that is where the problem lies. It's hard to tell from the angle the pictue is taken.
 

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Also, the hole is modified differently than is normally done. it looks like it was ground flat, then widened. Widening the opening isn't necessary, but usually a small concave curve is necessary in the side that is ground off. The first picture I posted is a good illustration of what that hole should look like.

Ron
 

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time to file.

The bolt stop doesn't look bad. Bending the flange should take about 30 seconds or less but I don't think that is the problem. If you have a dremel or even just a round file you can fix this stop at home in less than 30 minutes. You need to remove more mettle from the top of the big hole. The bolt catch was only partially modified. Instead of dipping down slightly where the catch was removed, you need to have it curved upward towards the top in an eliptical fassion. Leave the smooth curve in front of the big hole alone. Just take mettle from the top margin about 1/16 to 1/18 keeping a nice eliptical profile to the hole. I'm sure looking at your picture that you bolt stop is hanging up part way down and not fully disengaging. I would also smooth out the lower eliptical hole to remove the tiny nub which can also cause things to stick. rc
 
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