Rimfire Central Firearm Forum banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have this neat 10-22 with a 20" SS barrel I just assembled and wanted to take it to the shoot up at the Soo with Joe Haller and the other Yuppers; "The Yupper Shoot!"
So, I took it out last week to sight it in and see if it shot well. It didn't do as well as I thought it should. A tell-tale symptom was all of a sudden it would start to string vertically. It has a Boyd's Heritage laminated stock, so I thought about glass bedding it. Back to my shop.
The stock came with a small pad at the forend tip to put upward pressue on the barrel. That is supposed to be the best way for 10-22's to shoot. I removed the barrel and action and said to myself, I don't know of one of the centerfire benchrest guys who shoots stainless barrels with a pad at the forend. They all shoot free-floating barrels. So, I removed the pad. Then I noticed a hump that was left by Boyd's in their inletting for the pad to sit on. I sanded that down.
Putting the barrel and action back in the stock, and tightening the action screw, low and behold I noticed that the barrel channel was inletted off at an angle with respect to the barrel/action alignment. In fact, the left side of the barrel channel in the stock was pushing very hard on the barrel. More sanding removed this problem and I have a nicely freefloated barrel channel that I can slip two business cards through all the way to the action. Bueno!
So, now, how do I bed the thing. I haven't bedded a rifle since 1968, and I have forgotten much.
With this, I read all of the Posts here at rimfirecentral.com on the bedding 10-22's; it took two days. Then I e-mailed the barrel maker Friday afternoon, and I called Brownell's and talked to a technical guy. Both recommended free-floating the barrel, and each recommended bedding the barrel only. The gunsmith at Brownells said to bed it 4" in front of the barrel locking dovetail, and the barrel maker said to do it 2". I comprimised on 3". Three inches takes me almost to the balance point of my barreled action with scope mounted.
I sat the rest of Friday night digesting everything and woke up Saturday morning still pondering it. One thing that kept troubling me was that I could bed the barrel only, but what about the area between the bottom of the action and the stock where the action screw goes through. If I bed the barrel only, I can wind up with a small space at this spot and by tightening down the action screw too much, I can pull the front of the barrel up in the front slightly, and not have a good barrel-to-stock bed every time I put the gun back together.
So, I decided to bed the area where the action screw goes through first, so that I would have a platform that will be a constant for all future barrel/action removal and reassembly. Then I'll tackle the barrel bedding second.
I saw all of the posts about doing the whole bed job all at once, but I am just not confident enough yet in doing it all at once. That way has good merits.
So, now, do I have enough bedding compound? I have some Acraglass Gel that I use for my knifemaking caper, but not enough.
Off to the auto parts store to buy some JB Weld. I hadn't used it before, but it gets great reviews here at rimfirecentral.com, so I wasn't worried about its ability to do the job. Back to the shop.
It's time to do the modeling clay work. Mine is dark green. I love the old English Sports and Racing cars that were painted British Racing Green. After spending "hours", not minutes, at this job I'm ready for the release agent. Before that, I cleaned off all of the metal parts with degreaser where I had smeared modeling clay where I didn't want it. Then I apply two coats of Brownell's release agent. Completing that, I then sanded the finish from the pad inside the stock where the action screw goes up through. I'm ready!!!
It's now 5 PM. I decide to take a break and think things over. I think through the entire, step by step, process that I will go through from the time I mix the JB Weld until I tighten down the action screw.
It's now 5:30. I go back to the shop and set everything up where I'll need it, and when I'll need it. I then clean everything with degreaser, including my Dove Bar Popsicle stick I'll use to mix the JB. I double check everything, and then squeeze out two long beads from each tube and mix.
One thing I noticed with the 10-22 is that there is a dome shaped opening in the underside of the receiver extension in front of the guard screw. It's about 3/16' deep and could serve as a recoil lug. I'll give it a try. If it doesn't work, I can always sand it off later. After completely mixing the JB, I distributed an appropriate amount of the bedding in the area I wanted to bed, as well as in the area I just mentioned that I want to use for a recoil lug. More is not better, less is best. I install the barrel and action after I put oil on the action screw and tighten it up snug.
One last thing to check. Did I get any JB on the outside surface of the stock/barrel/action/scope. I went outside in the bright sunlight and found several places where I had gotten some during handling, so I came in and cleaned them up with white vinegar.
I'm a happy camper, at least for a little while as you'll find out.
This morning, I went to the rifle and looked at the excess bedding compound that I had left on the mixing plate. I left it by the rifle to check to see if it had set up before I removed the barrel and action. It was as hard as a rock. I took my long "T" handle allen wrench to remove the VQ action screw and it came out easily. I used a soda straw to insure this. Bueno!!! Then I tried to get the barrel and action out, and I banged on as hard as I could with my hands till they hurt. It wouldn't budge. So, I got a soft rubber mallet and tapped the barrel and action as gently as I could and it came out. I looked at the bedding inside and it was perfect. Awesome!!! Then I noticed that the top back of the stock had chipped at the rear where the receiver nests. The chip was large; about 1 3/16' across, and 1/2' down and left a 1/16" gap. Additionally, it had split vertically a third of the way across.
OK, coach, what do I do now?
The whole part had not broken through the top rear of the pistol grip, so I thought I would try to keep it as nice looking, cosmetically, as I could.
I have many different epoxies that I use, so I tought I would use a two part model airplane paint that I sometimes use to cover knife handles. That would provide a very thin glue line, as it's almost watery in consistancy and would make a nice looking fix. I got the fix!!! (Confidence is the feeling I get before I understand the problem) Then I started wondering about the tensil strength of the two part paint. I didn't know anything about it. And, I didn't want the chip to break againg after several barrel/action removals. I want to do this fix one time only!!!
I then decide to use some Devcon 2 Ton epoxy to fix the horizontal crack at the bottom, and the paint to do the vertical crack which won't require any tensil strength, and still provide a very thin glue line so it looks nice when it's done.
I got a plan!!
Back to the shop. I get everything ready to do the fix, including some surgical tubing to pull the chip back down to where it belongs, and go for it.
I mixed up enough of each of the two epoxies to do the job. I squeezed the Devcon into the bottom crack till I had it completely filled with one of the many Dove Bar popsicle sticks I have. LOL. Then, I put the epoxy paint on the vertical fracture, and placed some saran wrap over the area so the tubing won't be permantely glued to the top of my pistol grip. I wound the tubing as tight as I could, and the chip won't return to the place it came from. I didn't consider that eventuality. So, I pushed on the chip with my thumb, and it went all the way back where it started life. Great, but I ain't gonna stand here holding it with my thumb for 6 hours waiting for the 2 Ton epoxy to harden.
What do I do now Coach???
All this time the 2 Ton epoxy is starting to get thick.
I have some thin cabinet makers moveable jaw clamps that might work. The fixed jaw might be thin enought to go down through the opening in the stock for the receiver and I can use that to clamp the "fix" till the epoxy hardens. The fixed end of the clamp went through with ease. Whew!!!
The moveable part of the clamp has a pivoting jaw pad that can conform to the downward sloping pistol grip on top, while the bottom jaw is fixed and will work at the underside of the stock. Work fast, Donald, the glue is setting. I quickly cut two pieces of felt to go between the jaws and the stock for protection. I set the jaws tight enough till epoxy stopped squeezing out of the horizontal bottom crack! And, the jaws didn't move!!!! BUENO!!!
It's now sitting with two small 60 watt table lamps shining on it from each side till the epoxy hardens....
Crap happens....
I'm mentally drained..
Don Buckbee
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
geez!

i've been having the same kind of problems with my 20" stainless in a boyd's silhouette stock. and until i read your post, i was going to bed it myself. now i think i need to think it over again.

what's the worse that could happen - i could screw up a perfectly good stock and have to start over again. hell, that almost sounds like a plus.

thanks for the read - i was going to use acraglas - why did you opt for jb weld? is there something i missed?:confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks kevin, JL and eliseo for your replys. It was Miller time, big time!!!!
eliseo, in looking back at what I did that caused the big chip to break out, I concluded that the normal way to remove a 10-22 stock is to raise the front of the barrel up and cam it back and then lift it out of the stock. With my bedding at the action screw pad, there was a lot of JB that came up along the sides of the lug that the action screw threads into. I had it covered well with release agent. When it hardened, it created a big bind. That's why I couldn't budge it by hand. So, when I tapped it with the rubber mallet, I broke it loose, but it cammed up and back very hard and the rear of the receiver is what broke the stock. I didn't want to go inside the receiver to bang on it to get it loose because the receiver is thin wall aluminum and I didn't want to harm it.
The reason I didn't use acraglass is because I didn't have enough on hand to do the job. I ordered some from Brownell's on Friday, but I was afraid I wouldn't get it time to shoot the rifle to see which ammo shoots the best. I want to take it to the Soo next weekend to shoot it, and I was in a hurry. So, I bought the JB locally hoping to get the thing done ASAP.
Take care,
Don Buckbee
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top