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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All other things being equal, which would be the preferred barrel to use in a 10/17 conversion? Just considering accuracy, not weight or cost. The Ruger factory 77/17 barrel, or a Green Mountain 77/17? (Both using the Artifex spacer/shim.)

thanks,
totem
 

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My 10/17 was made with a 16" Clark barrel (no spacer or shim). It works great and gives .25" groups at 50 yards. I've got about 2000 rounds through it with no major malfunctions. I think using a VQ extractor and a WK buffer has helped reliability.
 

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totem said:
All other things being equal, which would be the preferred barrel to use in a 10/17 conversion? Just considering accuracy, not weight or cost. The Ruger factory 77/17 barrel, or a Green Mountain 77/17? (Both using the Artifex spacer/shim.)

thanks,
totem
The factory Ruger 77/17 barrel I had was crap. Shot 1 1/2" groups at 100yds. Sent it to CPC for work, when it came back it shot 3/4" groups at 100 yds. I've since bought a 23" Lilja for it and built another one with a 20" GM. The GM barrel shoots only about an 1/8" difference to the Lilja, Lilja cost 3 x's more than the GM. Both barrels shoot under 1/2" at 100yds easily. Is the accuracy worth the cost? Me personally, I don't think so as I'm only a hunter/part time paper shooter. But, if I was shooting benchrest professionaly it certainly would be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
77/17 barrel for 10/17 conversion

Thanks everyone for the responses, I've decided to sell the Green Mountain 77/17 HMR. It's brand new. Listed in the for Sale or Trade forum if you are interested.

totem
 

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Shims

Well, here's the story,

The sample shims that were sent to me don't have the finish quality that I like on a product with my name on it. Also, when I mic'ed these, I found them to be uneven. So... for the time being, I am still out of the shim business.

To complicate matters, I've started a new job which has kept me running like crazy - though it is better than my last job.

I tried talking one of the several machinists here at work into it, but when he asked what it was for I wasn't able to think up an adequate alternative use for a washer with such tight tolerances, so I told him what it was for.... Unfortunately he's an anti-gunner and that led to a very messy conversation.
I'm sure he thinks that as a member of management, it was a subtle ploy to try and get him fired. The Union keeps the distrust level here sky-high.

So... back to the drawing board. rest assured that when I get shims, I will let everyone know.

In the meantime, if you are desperate, shoot me an e-mail and I can give you the shim dimensions if you want to try with your own machinist.

Thanks!
~Artifex
 

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RLB said:
correct me if i'm wrong but i was lead to believe that simply changing the barrel to rechamber the .22 to .17 was dangerious. giving the pressure. wouldn't you have to use the vq bolt to be safe.
To clarify:

1) 10/22 .22LR carbine conversion to .17hm2: this conversion requires a new barrel and a heavier bolt. A bolt buffer and improved extractor will help. Volquartsen, Magnum Research, Boyds, & EABCO all have "kits" that will provide you the basic necessary parts.

2) 10/22 .22 WMR (.22 Magnum) conversion to .17HMR: [Realize that the 10/22 Mag receiver is steel, and slightly larger. Thus different from the standard 10/22 aluminum receiver.) This conversion CAN be done by a barrel swap alone. Again a bolt buffer and improved extractor will help. Many of us have had great luck with this conversion and had little to no problems with the functioning of our conversions. A few members have had poor functioning rifles (bad cycling, FTE's, etc...) A small numer have reported MAJOR malfunctions including ruptured case heads, cracked bolts, etc...

IMHO, my THEORY on the success of this conversion may lay in barrel quality and weight. After reading lots of posts: it seems that guys using the heavier steel .17HMR barrels have a better conversion experience than the guys using light weight barrels. I used a Clark Custom steel barrel and my rifle functions flawlessly.
 

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Cautious second to gsonnenmd

I have had a Whistle Pig barrel HMR conversion for some time. After trying a number of suggestions, including a VQ extractor and Flitzing the chamber with a bore mop in a drill, I got a Clark 18.5" fluted blue barrel. It only has about 30 rds through it so far but has had zero failures to extract. The WP would work OK for one or two magazines after cleaning and then start failing to extract. Cases usually didn't clear the chamber. I'm keeping my fingers crossed until I get a lot more rounds down the tube. The WP was very accurate but also very prone to FTEs. Dang! (Anybody want a cheap WP HMR barrel?)

Therefore, I cautiously second gsonnenmd's theory. I'll report back after more careful scientific analysis. I mean I'm gonna' shoot it some more.

DRob
 

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DRob said:
I have had a Whistle Pig barrel HMR conversion for some time. After trying a number of suggestions, including a VQ extractor and Flitzing the chamber with a bore mop in a drill, I got a Clark 18.5" fluted blue barrel. It only has about 30 rds through it so far but has had zero failures to extract. The WP would work OK for one or two magazines after cleaning and then start failing to extract. Cases usually didn't clear the chamber. I'm keeping my fingers crossed until I get a lot more rounds down the tube. The WP was very accurate but also very prone to FTEs. Dang! (Anybody want a cheap WP HMR barrel?)

Therefore, I cautiously second gsonnenmd's theory. I'll report back after more careful scientific analysis. I mean I'm gonna' shoot it some more.

DRob
DRob,

How is your rifle shooting?
 
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