The factory Ruger 77/17 barrel I had was crap. Shot 1 1/2" groups at 100yds. Sent it to CPC for work, when it came back it shot 3/4" groups at 100 yds. I've since bought a 23" Lilja for it and built another one with a 20" GM. The GM barrel shoots only about an 1/8" difference to the Lilja, Lilja cost 3 x's more than the GM. Both barrels shoot under 1/2" at 100yds easily. Is the accuracy worth the cost? Me personally, I don't think so as I'm only a hunter/part time paper shooter. But, if I was shooting benchrest professionaly it certainly would be.totem said:All other things being equal, which would be the preferred barrel to use in a 10/17 conversion? Just considering accuracy, not weight or cost. The Ruger factory 77/17 barrel, or a Green Mountain 77/17? (Both using the Artifex spacer/shim.)
I need one whenever they are ready, are you making a list and checking it twice ?Artifex said:Working on a new machinist for the shims. He sent me some samples that I just have been too busy to try out. Hopefully I'll get the supply chain back up here
To clarify:RLB said:correct me if i'm wrong but i was lead to believe that simply changing the barrel to rechamber the .22 to .17 was dangerious. giving the pressure. wouldn't you have to use the vq bolt to be safe.
DRob,DRob said:I have had a Whistle Pig barrel HMR conversion for some time. After trying a number of suggestions, including a VQ extractor and Flitzing the chamber with a bore mop in a drill, I got a Clark 18.5" fluted blue barrel. It only has about 30 rds through it so far but has had zero failures to extract. The WP would work OK for one or two magazines after cleaning and then start failing to extract. Cases usually didn't clear the chamber. I'm keeping my fingers crossed until I get a lot more rounds down the tube. The WP was very accurate but also very prone to FTEs. Dang! (Anybody want a cheap WP HMR barrel?)
Therefore, I cautiously second gsonnenmd's theory. I'll report back after more careful scientific analysis. I mean I'm gonna' shoot it some more.