Leupold VX-1 2-7x28mm rimfire ultralight fine duplex. Weighs only 8oz. 10oz with rings.
http://www.amazon.com/Leupold-11387...r=1-1&keywords=leupold+2-7x28mm+rimfire+scope
The rings are Weaver TOP MOUNT LOW. They are made to fit a standard Weaver 7/8" rail with cross slots. These are THE lowest rings I know of made for a tip off rail. Note they have coin-slot, knurled, round nuts on the cross-bolts for fast/easy on/off.
The nuts are on opposing sides to do two things for me at once. One is easier access to the low profile windage turrets. The other is greater access and better view of the ejection port.
http://www.amazon.com/Weaver-Detach...4-2939743?ie=UTF8&refRID=12JDY6ZQ995CJ6S1TA5C
Also note that while this is about the lowest one can mount any scope or dot on a Henry rail that this particular scope, because of its unique dimensions, has lots of clearance and easy access (w/o a thumb extender) to the hammer and at the same time gets far enough back to make the eye relief very good with a comfortable, mostly upright (similar to iron sights) position. Other scopes with larger ocular bells and/or larger diameter adjustment rings and/or shorter distance from ocular lens to turrets do not mount/fit/clear nearly as nice as this particular scope. Details are important imo to keep the gun as close to an iron sight comfort, function, feel, weight, balance, handling as possible.
The Frontier has a 3/8" grooved receiver with no cross slots made for "rimfire" rings which even the lowest ones are way too high imo. The rings shown are adapted to the grooved receiver with UTG brand "Weaver" to "rimfire/airgun" low-profile adapters which work great.
http://www.amazon.com/UTG-Dovetail-...qid=1417710074&sr=8-2&keywords=utg+22+adapter
The Top Mount rings are a butt pain to install. They need lapping and tweaking to fit right. It takes a little patience but the results are worth it imo.
To lap the rings all you need is a 1" o.d. steel tube and some 220grit wet dry sand paper. They will tweak/tune right up and be very sweet from that point on.
Nothing to it but a little TLC.
My photography is not the best but I am convinced after having tried to live with irons (including peeps), a couple different dots, this scope/ring/adapter set up is the hot ticket.
I should also note that I have installed and used a Nikon 4x32mm and a Weaver RV-9 scope on this gun and they were doable but nowhere near as perfect as this VX-1 in any category you can name.
Additionally, I might add that the scope stays set on 2x all the time even when shooting at 100yds off hand. The only time I crank it up is for shooting paper from a rest. The problem with the 2x fixed scopes imo is the short tube length on the ocular bell side which makes eye relief with the right head position more difficult.
The fixed 4x scopes, imo, are too much magnification for fast target acquisition which pretty much kills the fun for me.
Therefore, I find the super-clear, fine-duplex, 2x to be ideal 90% of the time and the fact that the 2-7x (as opposed to a fixed 2x or 4x) have too short of tube length to be just right. The extra weight of the 2-7x in this case is nill. The extended tube length needed for the zoom ring makes it perfect.
Compare the good but different dimensions and imo not as clear Weaver RV-7 scope to the VX-1 and one will see that the distance from the rear of the turret to the ocular lens is quite a bit shorter with the same eye relief. This will cause one to have hunt for the eye position and be less comfortable head position.
Of course one can adapt to less ideal set up but the trick is to know what works and why prior to buying the wrong scope/rings regardless of the price.
EDIT:
I measured the clearance between the bottom of the objective bell and the top of the barrel on mine with the set up as shown and it is exactly .185" on the money.
EDIT: I have received a pm asking for more details on how to lap/install those rings/adapters.
This was my reply:
The rings I used are the lowest rings overall that I know of that will do and that is important imo. You might not agree. Everyone is different. They are NOT the easiest to fit onto scope. In order to avoid damage to scope I highly recommend you 'dry-fit' them onto tubing first prior to putting them onto the scope. You will want to tweak/bend/sand until fitment is perfect such that rings assemble onto tube with ease and you get the 'hang of it' as to how best to put them on. That includes making sure that the screws go in without any trouble. The holes should be made to line up perfectly on the dry-fit and that the threads are all clean, lubed. I ALWAYS use assembly lube on the screw threads and make sure they start/thread all the way in and back out a few times each prior to attempting to dry-fit onto tubing or scope.
I use Frog Lube or spindle oil for assembly lube but 1 drop of any light weight machine oil will do nicely. Assembly lube ensures uniform seating w/o binding and minimal torque with maximum clamp pressure all at the same time. The screws will not back out. Do not use Loctite or other binding. It sounds like a lot of extra whatever but it is really not much effort and like they say, pay now or pay later. Prep on tubing instead of scope means they go on like child's play and that is the key to not messing up your expensive Leupold scope.
All you need is a 1" o.d. tube approximately 1' long and some 400grit wet/dry sand paper. Use steel because the dimensions of steel tubing are more precise than typical AL tubing. Use 400grit wet/dry because it is both thin and abrasive enough. Soak sand paper and roll up lengthwise and insert it into the tubing and let dry overnight. When dry it will wrap itself tightly around tube.
Once you have the rings installed on the steel tubing go ahead and mount the steel tubing on the rifle using the UTG adapters. Having ironed it all out nice and smooth prior to putting the scope on will really pay off when you start to have to move the scope around inside the rings for the correct eye relief.
Also, you should be thinking about getting a leather-wrap type cheek rest. With the Henry being 'western' there are lace-on in 'cowboy' style that you can stuff various riser pads into/under to get what you want. I highly recommend setting it all up such that you cannot put your head down on the stock and not have your eye in perfect position for the scope.
The best place to learn the ins/outs of this is on youtube search NSSF and Ryan Cleckner's 'how to set up a scope for success' forgive me if I don't have the spelling and exact title. You will find it if you look. Very popular.
I could take that scope exactly as you see it and put it directly on to my 1022 with TO-9 rail if I wanted to. Note that in the picture I have the nuts alternating. That is to give greater access to the turrets and chamber at the same time without regard for aesthetics or symmetry.
