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    1. · Registered
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      1,642 Posts
      Really nice find! :bthumb: Wipe the stock down with genuine Mineral Spirits to get any old wax and dirt off before you wax it. Let the MS dry thoroughly, and apply several coats of a really good wax, Renaissance is easily the best. Johnson's Paste Floor Wax would be OK too if that's what's handy, but NO auto waxes that contain Silicone, very bad for the finish. Howard's Feed 'n wax is junk too, by the by. Treat that beauty right.
      Excellent advice because that is so early AND obviously all original AND obviously in MINT condition.

      Gotta be worth every penny of $400 at auction and probably $500!

      That particular piece of walnut has got to be one of the plainest grain walnut stocks I have seen. Combine that with the fact that the factory finish is excellent condition I would NOT consider a re-finish unless it got seriously damaged or something.

      I will go little farther with advice:

      VERIFY EVERYTHING with Noremf first before doing anything.

      SCJ wax is good but not good enough for that thing. Trust me it is worth a small jar of Renaissance Wax. If you use it sparingly (which always appropriate with respect to firearms) and don't use on large items like big tables the 65ml jar will last a LONG time.

      https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-...id=1491069556&sr=8-3&keywords=renaissance+wax

      I use tons of SCJ and when it matters I use the Ren Wax and it is a big difference on something like that gun. I would mineral spirits clean all the metal and RenWax all the metal in addition to the whole stock inside and out.

      I would NOT consider drilling holes for a sling or even mounting a tip-off rail on it for a scope.

      As far as 'dry wood'... Verify with noremf but I am sure he will say that is a myth that deserves repeated debunking until no one on the planet believes it anymore. :D
       
    1. · Premium Member
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      3,296 Posts
      If the metal is good it's not hard to do a good touch up without stripping the blue off. I have used many different formulas, and the one that has worked best for me is Brownell's Oxpho Creme. Make sure the metal is de-greased, and follow the directions on the bottle. Here is a Marlin I touched up with Oxpho, the results speak for themselves.

      After you are done, protect the new bluing with a good wax, Renaissance is my go to for protecting wood and metal.
      I have two 514's, great little rifles. I am hooked on old single shots and have a few.
      Everything 'ol shooter said, Oxpho Blue and Renaissance Wax, a great combo.....:bthumb:

      https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...uing-chemicals/oxpho-blue-creme-prod1108.aspx

      https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-...ords=renaissance+wax&psc=1&smid=AYRCZ90M2OD6P
       
    1. · Registered
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      1,103 Posts
    1. · Premium Member
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      58,553 Posts
      Big-45 Pad

      Scrub away
      Good advice, I picked up two the first of the week, mine keep walking off.

      :yeahthat:

      Buy 2, $6 each and free shipping. They'll last you a lifetime.

      https://www.big45metalcleaner.com/

      And get some Renaissance wax while you're at it https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-...eywords=renaissance+wax&qid=1630010972&sr=8-4

      Good score on the 39A, great rifles!

      Frank
      More good advice, I'm on my second Tin of Renaissance Wax. :bthumb:
       
    1. · Gaucho de Gatos
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      7,674 Posts
      Think it needs a full re-blueing?? I have a very meticulous gunsmith close by. I've kept it wiped down and cleaned as best I can over the years. But it was the best looking of the 2 I picked from.

      Eric
      No Eric, it's fine. Buy a 2 pack of these, they'll last you forever. https://www.big45metalcleaner.com/

      Separate the stock and action and gently wipe down the metal with one of these and your favorite lubricant.

      Then wipe the stock down with this
      https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

      Put it back together and I guarantee you'll be impressed :)

      Frank
       
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