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Old 02-21-2013, 01:51 PM
Steelhead Dr.

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Help My Rem. 597 isn't working! Now what do I do?



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This thread is meant as a help to all those individuals who come here looking for help with problems they may be experiencing. It is meant to be as exhaustive as possible. Many of the pictures are mine and many are shamelessly stolen from the members here on this site. If you are upset that I used your picture in this post and would like it removed please PM me. If you have a better picture then the one posted or I am missing a problem and solution also feel free to PM me and offer advice or help. I do this as a thanks to all those who have gone before and offered so much to us. I will try to link the better threads and sticky's. This is meant as a help for problems post not a modifications post. I had originally intended to do it by what the problem is and what the solution is but I figured in the end it would work better if I did it by portion of the gun instead. I intend to cover the following topics in this order: 1. The bolt. 2. The trigger housing assembly. 3. The Receiver and Barrel. 4. The stock. My gun is a WMR so please realize some components shown in my pictures may differ from those in other pictures or your gun if you have the LR version. However, you should be able to see the similarities.

The Bolt


Yes, this hole in the bottom of your bolt is normal and useful. You can use it to spray cleaner into to help the function of the spring operating the extractor. It also comes in handy when changing out the extractor to a VQ or Brownell's extractor. By placing a small screw driver in here you may be able to more easily push out the extractor.


Since were talking about the extractor, here it is. If you had an accident and blew the extractor out of your bolt please make sure you find the following three pieces: the Spring, Plunger and Extractor. Now is a good time to replace it. There are three options: an original Remington extractor, a Volquartsen or a Brownell's. The last two are sharper and harder and allow for more efficient extracting of the spent cartridge from the chamber. This will solve most of your failure to eject (FTE) and stove pipe issues.

Links:
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts...prod19675.aspx
https://www.volquartsen.com/tags/4-a...ger-components
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=258502
http://www.hawktecharms.com/Remington-597-s/3.htm


The Charging Handle:


This is meant to pull out so you can get your bolt easily out of the receiver. Sometimes they get loose and fly off. To fix this carefully bend the spring up so the bend in the end fits tighter into the divot in the charging handle.


Bolt Face and Head Space:

The Red arrow shows you the extractor, the Green shows you the firing pin in its extended position (firing), the Yellow arrows show the Head Space. The second picture is a cartridge in the bolt face.
Lets talk about head space. It is the area that the rim of a rimfire cartridge sits in in semi-auto rimfires. If this space is to large the cartridge can move away from the firing pin and you may get a Fail to Fire (FTF) or poor accuracy do to reduced pressure. If this space is to small you can peen your chamber because the firing pin may extend past the head space. (picture in Receiver/Barrel section) Don't dry fire your rimfire just in case! A second dangerous problem can be a slam fire. This is caused by the rim of the rimfire cartridge being squeezed between the bolt and breech face igniting the round before the trigger is ever pulled as the bolt slams forward to load another round. If you suspect a problem here I personally recommend you use a gun smith rather then trying it on your own but you can find how to do so on this site.

Links:
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...ght=head+space
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...ght=head+space
https://sites.google.com/site/quesplace/


Now for the biggy: The guide rods


Remember this is a WMR so no your eyes don't deceive you there are two springs on that rod. A small inner one and larger outer one. The left picture shows where the springs should stop in relation to the bolt. The second picture is an exaggerated picture of a spring slipping up past its ideal location. Truly it would only be a few millimeters. This single problem probably causes more Failure to reset (FTR) FTF, and poor performance issues then any other besides the screws being to tight. The problem is that this binds the bolt and slows it down considerably .


The image on the left is a spring in good shape. The one on the right has been caught up between the guide rod and the bolt and been bent. Newer springs on the LR version are flared to help prevent this. The solution is to install the springs carefully and when you are done installing them pull back on them with a popsicle stick to make sure they are not stuck like in the following picture. A new tool has been developed by Gunsmither to help correctly install these springs. Please see the link below.



The other problem with these guide rods is how tight the set screws may be tightened down. The book says 10 inch pounds. Everyone on here agrees that is to much. If they are tightened to tight they bend and again slow the bolt causing the aforementioned issues. The solution is easy. First take them out and run them over a flat surface to make sure they aren't bent. Then polish them. Then after they are correctly re-installed simply turn in the set screw until you feel them touch the rod then back them out 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. Once you put the gun back in the stock they wont be coming out.



Links:
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=164010
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...ad.php?t=67177
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=423980
http://gunsmithertools.com/597-remin...pringtrap.html

If your guide rods wont come out: (please read the full thread and heed all warnings)
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...uck+guide+rods

One last item about the bolt.
Some have reported that in certain instances the hammer drags on the bolt and slows its motion leading to FTR, FTE etc. The reason is believed to be the linkage in the trigger housing binding and putting unusual pressure on the hammer. The solution is to either polish the underside of the bolt or find where the linkage is binding. Here is a picture of normal wear on the underside of a bolt from resetting the hammer.





Well, we've run into a snag. I'm only allowed to use 20 images in a post. Hang on while I see if I can do anything about this. I guess I'll just do it in three parts. So this concludes the bolt. Hope you had fun.

Last edited by Steelhead Dr.; 09-13-2014 at 03:52 PM. Reason: under construction
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  #2  
Old 02-21-2013, 04:09 PM
Checcles
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STICKY!!!!!!!! Nice job.
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:29 PM
paxfish

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Here's a quick post on how to keep your springs from binding:

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=423980
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Old 02-22-2013, 06:37 AM
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DaveyG

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First of all, great writeup/tutorial Dr!
Also for the noobs, might be good to relate a few of the common abbreviations used on this site:
FTE=failure to eject
FTF=failure to fire
FTR=(I'm assuming that is failure to reset, as in the hammer reset)
LR=long rifle (referring specifically to the .22LR model line of 597)
WMR/HMR=Winchester/Hornady magnum rimfire (referring specifically to the "magnum" model line of 597)
OOB=out of barrel/boundary
YMMV=your model/mileage may vary

I'm sure I missed a few that are in common usage, but those are the ones I see/use most often.

Last edited by DaveyG; 02-22-2013 at 06:41 AM.
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Old 03-09-2013, 10:42 PM
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Al the Infidel
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:12 PM
rocket5979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveyG View Post
FTF=failure to fire





Hmm, the acronym FTF has always meant "Failure to Feed" in all of the circles I have shot in, military and civilian. If the round is completely in the chamber with bolt all the way forward (and locked if a locking bolt weapon) and the weapon doesn't fire when the firing pin strikes the primer then that that is a misfire; whether it be ammunition or weapon related.

"Feed, Chamber, Lock, Fire, Unlock, Extract, Eject, Cock"

Different strokes for different folks I suppose. "Tomayto"..."Tomohto"...
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