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Old 01-18-2012, 12:37 PM
jungle375

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SR22 Pistol Warning



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Looks like a few got out there without the proper torque on the barrel screw.
It may be a good idea to check that the barrel screw is tight prior to firing, otherwise you may get some damage to the bottom of the barrel.
Instructions for applying the proper angular torque are in the manual.

Probably not a bad idea to put a dab of Loctite 242 in there if it is found loose.

Illustrations(not mine):http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=137918

Last edited by jungle375; 01-18-2012 at 01:27 PM.
  #2  
Old 01-19-2012, 08:46 AM
crispy
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I've read here that 9/64ths is the actual size of the barrel screw head.

But none of my allen/hex wrench sets have a 9/64ths. Is that typical?
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:00 AM
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I read in a blog just the other day where the owner of a new SR-22 pistol was having wear on the slide. The slide was actually being shaved and he had pictures to show the shaving. I don't know if these are related problems, however, since I intend to purchase an SR-22 I'm going to wait a year until these problems are taken care. I'm sure we'll see a lot more about problems and fixes with this pistol as time goes on.

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  #4  
Old 01-22-2012, 09:13 AM
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I saw that also. The pictures he supplied showed some definite wear on the slide. I have no idea what could have caused that.
Here's a link to the thread on it over at AR15.com
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/127...ll_Ruger_.html
  #5  
Old 01-22-2012, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by packnpaddle View Post
I saw that also. The pictures he supplied showed some definite wear on the slide. I have no idea what could have caused that.
Here's a link to the thread on it over at AR15.com
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/127...ll_Ruger_.html
I've hit 1000 rounds and I have some wear thats similar to the wear in this post. I believe its caused by the slide stop contacting the underside of the slide rail.

photos of my slide:
http://imgur.com/nELIg

This probably happens for two reasons. The regular reason is that the slide stop gets pushed up against the slide after the last round is fired. The slide stop hits the steel dowel pin preventing the aluminum slide from being slowly gouged away but the slide stop, which is steel, still rubs enough on the slide as its reciprocating to wear away at the anodized coating and then the aluminum itself.
The other reason is that dirty 22LR can start to clog the slide stop spring and prevent it from retracting fully out of the way of the slide. This causes it to drag a bit on the slide.
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Old 01-22-2012, 03:08 PM
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After viewing the photos on the thread provided, I took the slide off of my SR-22 and tried to identify what could be the cause of that type of wear, and unless the barrel was quite loose, I just couldn't find it. However, like bandolier, I also focused on the slide stop. And looking at it, I noticed that the slide stop, being a stamped part, had a rough edge on the top rear corner of it. It had already started to wear the finish on the slide. Nothing serious, but it had started.

So, I then proceeded to take a fine stone and file the rough edge off of the rear top edge of the slide stop. This should alleviate future wear.

Last edited by wproct; 01-22-2012 at 07:27 PM.
  #7  
Old 01-22-2012, 08:36 PM
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...So, I then proceeded to take a fine stone and file the rough edge off of the rear top edge of the slide stop. This should alleviate future wear.
That is a great idea. Did you file it in place or did you remove the frame from the grip first to get at the slide stop?
I've tried to get my frame assembly out like dwheeless did here but even after I got the rear pin out (and it was very hard) the frame would not slide out. It seemed attached at the front of the gun somewhere and I couldn't figure it out.
btw, my barrel did come loose once and I didn't catch it immediately. That may have caused some of the wear on my slide as well.
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by bandolier View Post
That is a great idea. Did you file it in place or did you remove the frame from the grip first to get at the slide stop?
I've tried to get my frame assembly out like dwheeless did here but even after I got the rear pin out (and it was very hard) the frame would not slide out. It seemed attached at the front of the gun somewhere and I couldn't figure it out.
btw, my barrel did come loose once and I didn't catch it immediately. That may have caused some of the wear on my slide as well.
Actually I filed the slide stop in place, as I'm not brave enough to try remove the frame from the grip. I left the magazine in the pistol which caused the slide stop to sit upright for good access. I then used a very fine stone in a battery powered dremel tool at lower speed, very carefully I might add. It only took a couple of touches to smooth the rough edge off.
  #9  
Old 01-22-2012, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by bandolier View Post
I've hit 1000 rounds and I have some wear thats similar to the wear in this post. I believe its caused by the slide stop contacting the underside of the slide rail.

photos of my slide:
http://imgur.com/nELIg

This probably happens for two reasons. The regular reason is that the slide stop gets pushed up against the slide after the last round is fired. The slide stop hits the steel dowel pin preventing the aluminum slide from being slowly gouged away but the slide stop, which is steel, still rubs enough on the slide as its reciprocating to wear away at the anodized coating and then the aluminum itself.
The other reason is that dirty 22LR can start to clog the slide stop spring and prevent it from retracting fully out of the way of the slide. This causes it to drag a bit on the slide.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wproct View Post
After viewing the photos on the thread provided, I took the slide off of my SR-22 and tried to identify what could be the cause of that type of wear, and unless the barrel was quite loose, I just couldn't find it. However, like bandolier, I also focused on the slide stop. And looking at it, I noticed that the slide stop, being a stamped part, had a rough edge on the top rear corner of it. It had already started to wear the finish on the slide. Nothing serious, but it had started.

So, I then proceeded to take a fine stone and file the rough edge off of the rear top edge of the slide stop. This should alleviate future wear.


Excellent posts and photos, a small radius on the slide stop should stop any potential problems here.
  #10  
Old 01-22-2012, 10:57 PM
1917-1911M
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Quote:
Originally Posted by packnpaddle View Post
I saw that also. The pictures he supplied showed some definite wear on the slide. I have no idea what could have caused that.
Here's a link to the thread on it over at AR15.com
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/127...ll_Ruger_.html
I can tell you prezackly what is causing it and you can see the exact same wear on the left side of the P22 slide. The slide stop arm drags on the underside of the slide when the last round has been chambered and the slide stop is pressing up against it waiting for the slide to be retracted so it can pop up into the slot and catch the slide.

Owners will have to do exactly what P22 owners do, keep the top edge of the stop square, smooth and slightly rounded so it will slide over the aluminum and not gouge it. Sounds like job one with the SR22 will be a good cleaning and to torque the barrel screw down properly with some blue threadlocker. M1911



This is one of my P22 slides and everything has been polished. Without polishing of the trigger bar ears and slide stop the wear would be worse. 10,000 rounds appx. A is where the trigger bar ears are knocked down to disengage the trigger bar from the sear. B is where the ears rebound against the bottom of the slide and drag along the length. C, left side of the slide is where the slide stop drags on that 10 round. The hardened pin which I believe both pistols have keeps the square rear shoulder of the stop notch from rounding but in the process will peen the top edge of the stop arm so you have to keep an eye on it and slightly radius the top edge that drags on the slide. M1911

Now that I look at it that isn't one of my slides, I have custom extractors....that is a revised stock one. I did the photoshop for some reason.



Again a P22 slide stop arm but I bet the Ruger one is similar as both cause the exact type of wear pattern as presented.

Last edited by 1917-1911M; 01-22-2012 at 11:11 PM.
  #11  
Old 01-22-2012, 11:24 PM
1917-1911M
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I'd like to see a picture of this area on a new, unfired barrel. Are the indentations there or have those barrels been peened already. One way or the other the rear chamber area of the barrel must seat flush and tight. Heck, that is essential for accurate and safe shooting. M1911
  #12  
Old 01-22-2012, 11:27 PM
1917-1911M
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jungle, you might contact Admin about this thread or come up with a very clear title to the thread. This issue probably needs to be "stickied" at the top of the Ruger section warning all purchasers to be sure and check their barrel tightness and on a regular basis until this is resolved. SR22 Warning, Check Barrel Tightness Before Firing ... something along those lines. M1911
  #13  
Old 01-23-2012, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 1917-1911M View Post
I'd like to see a picture of this area on a new, unfired barrel. Are the indentations there or have those barrels been peened already... M1911
My barrel had no indentations or marks in the lug area. Here's the best picture I have from when I first got it. You can see that there is no deformation of the lug area on the bottom or rear.
http://imgur.com/vgWwQ
After my barrel came loose once at the range my barrel developed a mark on the inside of the lug channel from the "barrel location pin" as its called in the manual. This is a bad picture but you get the idea:
http://imgur.com/RWj24

I've removed the little hump on the bottom of the barrel so it would seat properly, added a drop of loctite, and tightened the barrel up to specs and its been trouble free now for ~600 rounds.

The moral of the story is to check your barrel screw tightness. The instructions say "Install the screw until you feel the screw make contact with the insert. From this point, rotate the Allen wrench an additional 45-90 degrees to fully tighten"
  #14  
Old 01-23-2012, 06:54 PM
1917-1911M
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Originally Posted by bandolier View Post
My barrel had no indentations or marks in the lug area. Here's the best picture I have from when I first got it. You can see that there is no deformation of the lug area on the bottom or rear.
http://imgur.com/vgWwQ
After my barrel came loose once at the range my barrel developed a mark on the inside of the lug channel from the "barrel location pin" as its called in the manual. This is a bad picture but you get the idea:
http://imgur.com/RWj24

I've removed the little hump on the bottom of the barrel so it would seat properly, added a drop of loctite, and tightened the barrel up to specs and its been trouble free now for ~600 rounds.

The moral of the story is to check your barrel screw tightness. The instructions say "Install the screw until you feel the screw make contact with the insert. From this point, rotate the Allen wrench an additional 45-90 degrees to fully tighten"
That answers that. Thanks. Now the screw will have to carry the entire load on that barrel. Ruger is going to be replacing a lot of barrels.....again. M1911
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Old 01-24-2012, 12:59 AM
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In time will tell 1911M..

If I have another SR22 pistol, I can send it to you to play with it and make another Bible, I don't think will need a Bible..WHO Knows I had shoot about 300 rounds indoor in poor lightning with my old eyes, with minor adjustment on site, I can put 10 rounds, less than 2 inch group at 10 Yard with CCI Standard ammo, I think I get do better at outdoor, have to get use to the trigger, Now I have to wait for the threaded barrel to come out.
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