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  #1  
Old 12-28-2010, 04:48 PM
igofast

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Vostok CM-2's



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I recently picked up 2 CM2's from CDNN, based largely on the research I have done here.

Because of the way laws are here in California, it made more sense(economical) to me to pick up 2 rifles and see which one shoots better, then possibly sell off the 2nd. Though I'm beginning to think I may scope one and keep the other with open sights, as long as they both perform.

Since I planned on scoping at least one of them, I got ones that were specified as "top rail" by CDNN. I chose to save a few bucks and get "cracked stock" versions as I planned on refinishing the stocks anyways.

Initial impressions:

Stocks - dinged up, but hard to find any cracks. 1 has a hairline crack going horizontal behind the handgrip(as opposed to the vertical cracks I often see pictures of). I'm unsure of how I will tackle refinishing/restoring the stippling (suggestions welcome). Again, I plan on refinishing - I will strip down the existing finish with either mineral spirits or oven cleaner, then apply water based stain and finish with hand-rubbing in Tru Oil.

Barrels - good condition. My gunsmith has a clean/hone kit that he swears by, so I let him clean up the rifling a bit(for a fee of course). Based on the info here a good cleaning probably would have sufficed, but I didn't mind paying the extra for piece of mind.

Actions - Have a bit of gunk(yellow/orange sticky) in them. I'll need to get in there with q-tips and dental picks to clean it out.

Triggers - Feel good, 1 breaks at 1 lb 8 oz, the other at 1 lb 2 oz, neither with any creep. I will try to lighten them both up to under a lb. The trigger guard on one of them has no finish left, I think I'll just rattle-can it black.

Sights - 1 came with a post in the globe, and the other with a circle. Each has a different rear sight with different apertures. Neither has any markings but they appear to function well.

Scope - Based on some threads here I went looking for a B-Square dovetail to weaver/picatinny adapter to find out they are no longer being made. Some places still have some old stock, but they are getting over $20 for them(not including shipping). It looks like BKL is back in business and making adapters that would work, but I ended up going cheap and finding an adapter from UTG on Amazon for $7.50. I've never thought of UTG making really quality products, but since this was on a .22 and the price was right I took the chance. Together with some Millet Angle-Loc rings the order shipped free. I think the Burris Zee rings with Pos-Align inserts are probably a better choice, but I've read about bases being off enough that even the Pos-Aligns couldn't get the scope aligned with the bore so I decided to not take the chance. I managed to find a BSA Platinum 36x44 scope that I will be putting on as I will mainly be using the gun for 50 yard benchrest match's, there are much better choices in scopes - but there is a reason I'm not buying an Anschutz, my life doesn't depend on it, and it should be able to take the recoil of a .22 just fine.

I'll try to update as the project(s) continue, but for how here's some pics:
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  #2  
Old 12-28-2010, 04:49 PM
igofast

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#1

Left Side:


Right Side(yes, the motorcycle sticker came with it):


Left and Right closeups:


Dinged up forearm:


as request:

Markings:


Rear Sight:


Import marks(same on both):


Front Sight(same on both):


Globe inserts - notice different sizes, only the right one is correct, but the smaller one sorta works

Last edited by igofast; 12-31-2010 at 02:49 PM. Reason: more pics
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Old 12-28-2010, 04:49 PM
igofast

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#2

Left and Right Sides:



Left and Right Closeups:


Also dinged up forearm:


Markings:


Rear Sight:


I noticed that the markings on the bottom matched the S/N

Last edited by igofast; 12-31-2010 at 03:08 PM. Reason: more pics
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  #4  
Old 12-28-2010, 05:44 PM
RET
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Ideas for the CM-2

First, look at what you actually have.....an accurate, but very crude rifle. Much of the work looks like it either was slave labor, close to it. Sometimes I wonder how some of these shoot as well as they do.

Checkering..what checkering....you mean the scratches in the wood that appears to be checkering at times. It does not look good, provides no gripping value, and only forms diamonds by accident.

Concerning collectors value....... if you live long enough it may be collectible by someone. But, you bought it. so do what you want to with it.

Invest as much or little time as you want to......these rifles are an inexpensive way to try your hand at GS work with no downside. I (almost) think you can only improve these rifles.

My only advice is to decide slowly, because there is no reverse gear for mistakes. Have fun with your project with no guilt!!!!!!!!!


ret
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  #5  
Old 12-28-2010, 06:03 PM
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DIY VOSTOKs

igofast, would you post some close-ups of the front and rear sights?
Also, a close-up photos of the recevier nomenclature.

By the way, since you've taken BEFORE pictures,
I assume you will be taking AFTER photos as well.
If you are satisfied with the outcome of your project VOSTOKs,
I'd like to include your rifle(s) in:
Sticky: VOSTOK CM-2 & Ural (УРАЛ) Rimfires Redone
Have you reviewed RET's threads on his VOSTOK project?
In doing so, you might get some ideas for your rifles.
Sticky: Ural Overhaul I.
Ural Overhaul II
Ural Overhaul III
Ural Overhaul IV
Ural Overhaul V
Ural Overhaul VI
Ural Overhaul VII ... RET
Ural Overhaul VIII ... RET
Ural Overhaul IX ... RET
Ural Overhaul X
__________________
W. Edwards Deming ... Quality: It is not enough to do-your-best;
you must know what-to-do, and ... then ... do-your-best.
Ever-Onward ... Through the Fog ---- Fort Stockton TX 79735
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  #6  
Old 12-29-2010, 10:16 AM
igofast

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Quote:
Originally Posted by aom22 View Post
igofast, would you post some close-ups of the front and rear sights?
Also, a close-up photos of the recevier nomenclature.

By the way, since you've taken BEFORE pictures,
I assume you will be taking AFTER photos as well.
Will do, that's the plan, and thanks for the links.

I have gone over RET's postings before and found them very informative, I may have to try my hand at using the dremel to re-texture - although it seems labor intensive.
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  #7  
Old 12-31-2010, 09:41 AM
rlporter507
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checkering

instead of trying to repair the checkering, you could stipple the area in the borders, and have a different style, and cover up the bad spots.
grind a small punch to an odd tip with a square and round area, try it on a scrap piece until you get the look you want. It will come out some what like the anchutz style stippling, and then just paint it black.
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  #8  
Old 12-31-2010, 03:34 PM
igofast

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First crack at scope mounting

a few lessons learned:

Should have gotten low rings for the 44mm bell
I really don't like the rings much, I may appreciate them more when it comes time to get everything aligned.
The rail adapter only works on 565, on 667 I would need to use shims to get it to clamp down.
I started putting the mount where it would fully engage the dovetail but ran into 2 problems: bolt handle would not clear the rear screw and now enough eye relief. It looks like both issues are resolved by moving the mount all the way forwards with the potential issue of partially blocking the ejection port. Hopefully I'll be able to test this weekend.

Some pics of it mounted in the rearmost position(illustrating the clearance issue).




and a pic of the mount in the forwardmost position.

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Old 01-01-2011, 06:18 AM
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interesting, that is a cm-2 judging by what i can see of the bolt.
all the vostok cm-2s i've seen in here are the side mount which is what
i have. i drilled and tapped mine. the top mount on yours looks like an
izhmash later version. i'm thinking this must be what they were going
to when they changed names. kind of a transitional gun. the newer full-sized
adult ones have the half rail like yours on top. i think after fees shipping i had
about 350 in mine. trigger goes down to around 8-10 ounces. i refinished it
the stock had fine cracks all over it. glued everything up it's been fine and
shoots great. for the price you would have a hard time beating it, yep it's
rough as heck but it work good. i've never had a failure to feed, eject or fire.
what more can you ask for?
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  #10  
Old 01-01-2011, 06:33 PM
ultramag44
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You'll never get any cheek weld w/ the scope up there in the wind!

Strip the clamps & screws from those Millet Mangle-Lock rings, get a piece of 1/4 X 1/2 steel stock, and build one of these. The scope only sits 1/4 inch higher then normal.

Use this base instead of the 2 individual ones. There's enough material to make 2 mounts.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-WEAVER-BASE-...item1c17d4c336

This one sits even lower, but you will have to lap it flat on the bottom to remove the very slight curve.

http://combatoptical.com/catalog/12X...-MOUNT-83.html



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Old 01-01-2011, 08:26 PM
igofast

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ultramag44: very nice! I'm not that good at machining, but it looks like a project I may do down the road. I thought it would be a bigger deal not getting a good cheek weld, but the shooting I'm doing is benchrest and it's actually pretty nice having to only barely touch the rifle in a few places. I'm still thinking of junking those rings and finding some good low rings. It doesn't appear that the base is off that much from the bore, and I should be able to correct only using the scopes adjustment.

It was a cool rainy day with winds in the 10-20 mph range which definitely messed with some of my groups. I still managed to get a few good ones. Turns out my worry with the mount blocking ejected cases was mostly unfounded, only about 1 in 20 gave me any difficulty and it was easy to tip the gun to extract them.

50 yd scoped using Wolf ME. After the 3 targets on the left my groups started opening up. I went thru all of the bolts and tightened everything up, then re-zero'ed. They were still not as good(as evidenced by the lower left target). However once I went down range - out from the protected shooting posts - I found the wind had really kicked up and suspect that is why I was seeing bigger deviations.


33 yd with the open sights(2" dot) using Fed 711B:


50 yd with the open sights(1 per target-even the sighters) also using Fed 711B - these 50 yd targets are actually 50 ft NRA smallbore, with the black diameter measuring a little over 1.3 inches. I had a heck of a time trying to see the target and it was hard to get fine adjustments with the post insert I was using. I will need to get the circle insert if I want to continue to try using the open sights:



Realized I haven't posted any links to products:

Base I went with:
UTG 11mm to Weaver : $7.50 : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product

Other Base Options:
B-Square 17015 (as far as I can tell no longer being made - this mount is referenced in other threads but the links were no longer valid) : $23.95: http://swfa.com/B-Square-Air-Gun-Adapter-P5944.aspx

BKL(looks like they went out of business but are back):
BKL 500 Series Dovetail to Weaver/Picatinny : $37.95 : http://swfa.com/BKL-4-Long-Cantileve...nt-P47877.aspx
BKL 200 Series 1" Rings : $37.95 : http://swfa.com/BKL-4-Long-Cantileve...nt-P47854.aspx

Links above are to SWFA who are great to purchase from and will match prices on product found elsewhere.

Last edited by igofast; 01-01-2011 at 08:29 PM.
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Old 01-03-2011, 05:10 PM
igofast

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Refinishing

Started my refinishing project.

I had done a bit of research on the internet on the best way strip off the old finish. The standby's of commercial stripper and mineral spirits were mentioned, as well as some intriguing options of putting the stocks in the dishwasher and oven cleaner.

The wife said 'no' immediately to the dishwasher idea(can't really blame her), but it sounded like the ultimate option as it would do all the work for you, and with the heat all the dents would be raised as well. Oh well, maybe someone else let me know what I missed out on.

I decided on the oven cleaner route, got some heavy duty stuff for $3 at Walmart and went to town. You definitely want to use this stuff in a highly ventilated area as the fumes were very potent. I applied the cleaner to both stocks and let them sit for an hour, then did a light scrubbing with an abrasive sponge, rinsed, did another application and let sit for another 30 mins, sponged and rinsed off.

Then let dry for a day:



I have to say I am very happy with the results. You can see where I missed hitting the top stock with the sponge, but that will sand out. I could have spent more time with a toothbrush working the old finish out of the checkering, but I've decided to paint that area anyways so I'm not spending any work on it.

Nothing like removing the finish to show up some unpleasantness:



I thought I had lucked out with one having no cracks, I obviously just couldn't see it. I'm beginning to think all of these type guns have cracked stocks. Anywhoo, I used some wood glue to hopefully seal them up(using RET's excellent instructions).

On to the prep work, step 1:sanding. I don't know if the process for removing the old finish somehow affected the wood, but it was in awful shape. I started with some 150 grit on a sanding block, but realized I had my work cut out for me. I went to the palm sander and it still took quite a bit of time to get a smooth finish. If you want a perfect finish, this is where you need to spend your time. Though I almost think that if you wanted a perfect finish, you would start from scratch using some higher quality wood. I spent what I felt was an adequate time, about an hour per - hitting the major imperfections, the minor ones I will claim add 'character'.

Now comes the stain. I'm using Tru-Oil as a finish, so I wouldn't necessarily need to stain, but I wanted something darker that what I was seeing when the stocks were wet(this is what is the rule of thumb from Tru-Oil). I decided on a Dark Walnut, which is pleasing to my eye and hopefully will help hide the cracks that might show up more obviously in a lighter stain. Just use a rag to apply, the longer you let it sit, the darker it gets. Then wipe off and let dry:



It's not the lighting, the one in back is darker. I applied the stain to it first, then the other, then wiped off both - so the rear one had more time with the stain on it. Depending on how they feel, I may put the first coat of Tru-Oil on tonight.

While I had the actions out of the stocks, I cleaned them up and adjusted the triggers. Fantastically easy to do. Per Tom C., I expected to get ~8oz out of them. I'll need to get my gunsmiths trigger gauge to confirm, but according to my digital postal scale they are now sitting around 2oz with no creep.
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Old 01-05-2011, 11:42 PM
rlporter507
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after seeing and reading about these rifles here, I bought one. came today, and looks just like the one posted here, except mine has a duck sticker on it.
I was able to shoot a few shots to sight it in, then two groups at 50 feet. they were both 1 1/2 bullet holes round with wolf match. my trigger is about 2oz, actually to light! no creep, and very crisp. The only problem is my front insert is like the one posted on the left. wrong size, but I have some clear plactic inserts that fit fine.
very pleased with the rifle, and CDNN. then shipped for a resonable amount, Fed x'ed it, packed it well, and added a free pocket knife!
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Old 01-06-2011, 12:14 PM
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My CM-2

I picked up a CM-2 from CDNN as well back in October. I wish that I did take some "before" pics because she was pretty rough and also had a Forumla-1 sticker on the stock. I did the Easy Off oven cleaner as well to strip the stock. I also discovered a crack in the top of the pistol grip/wrist area but it does appear to be solid and not go all the way though the wood. I used a "special walnut" Minwax stain but the wood didn't take it very well. She is very accurate and the trigger was adjusted perfectly. The only "issue" is that the bolt will be extremely rough to operate when it's dry (no lubrication) to the point that it feels like I'm going to break off the bolt handle just trying to open the action after firing a round. Once it's oiled/greased then she acts like nothing was ever wrong. When I called CDNN they told me that they didn't have any top groove rifles with the sights as that's what I really wanted.




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Old 01-06-2011, 01:36 PM
igofast

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Mattitude: Looks great, how did you feel the stain didn't take very well?

Some updated pics:

Pics after the 1st application of Tru-Oil getting ready for the second application:



Sand with 200 grit wet/dry with the 2nd application to fill the pores, then rehang to dry:

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