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  #1  
Old 03-20-2009, 04:45 PM
RET
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Ural Overhaul VI



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I'll since this is different free image hosting service, I cannot check what I said last. Photos do not overlap. The older posts will not have images until 3-29-09.

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I want an angular cheek piece. Trying this out and sleeping on it so to speak. Draw liberally on all stock layouts.



Scrapers handy, but not crucial. Files can be used 100% of the time. These two are all most people will ever need.



When cutting a cheek piece, watch to maintain the dimensions on the side of the stock below the cheek piece. Significant dimension change here from image #1 on this post.



Mark borders with files that maintain width to the tip. Most taper some. And most employ two cutting edges. Decide if you need to grind one edge so you will not end up with an unwanted dimension loss. Perform ONE task at a time. No multitasking here.



Pay careful attention to the fragile cheek piece nose. It has thin areas. Do not use coarse files or sandpaper here. Not enough material to recover from a mistake.



Check in natural light.





Maintain layout lines and stop short until everything is 85% and you have concluded all changes.

This is a trial cheek piece front edge.



Did not like it, so back to original line. Amateur work will show at cheek piece every time. People do not know what to do when rounded surfaces meet angular surfaces. Think about a regular rounded stock surface with your work being a liquid adhering to it. The cheek piece must conform to the side of the existing surface. .











Time to layout final portion of stock.



More to come

ret
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  #2  
Old 03-20-2009, 06:27 PM
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More Photos

Glad to see you photos coming - aom22.
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  #3  
Old 03-26-2009, 09:41 AM
RET
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Lots of new photos. I will post in a few days.

More to come.

ret
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  #4  
Old 03-30-2009, 02:29 PM
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Look for dings to steam out or fill w/epoxy. Better to raise wood than lower surface.



Use areas already set up for lightening weight. B e careful of the finished surfaces.







Blend radius.

Align extension w/ top and bottom center lines.

SCREW not GLUE in place. This allows one to check for problems prior to a more permanent situation. REMEMBER: This is offset. If you put the screws in the center of the extension, it will pierce the SIDE of the stock. Three screws are always best if possible.



Work to about 85% of the finished product.



Cut the fore end tip to 35 degrees.



Check both sides for overall fit.



Apply epoxy to butt stock, but allow NONE into the screw holes. Scrape the wood screws across wax or soap to fill the threads, This will displace any epoxy and allow easy removal. Notice the screws sitting on the extension with white wax in the threads. A dry lubricant is needed.



Screw on the extension, and clamp any supporting pieces. This small block is to fill the area of the stock belly.

Mark any areas that need work. The area in front of the cheek piece is where amateur work shows up. I need to reduce the zig zag area and avoid the area in the circle, which is a little low already.



More to come,

ret
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Old 03-30-2009, 07:56 PM
RET
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Extension shaping

Finish rasping the extension, paying attention to corners. Use rasping files and scrapers and take to the rough sand phase. Blending the stock lines with cant is the toughest aspect. Sketch several ideas on, erase and try again. After several, a favorite will emerge.







Sunlight is always best to use for examinations.

More to come,

ret

Last edited by RET; 03-31-2009 at 09:29 PM.
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Old 03-30-2009, 08:13 PM
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Links to other work

Mark border of cheek piece and rasp.



In tight areas, slow down and check borders often. Sometimes lines are not exact, and removing extra wood is not an option.



Final shape appears for the first time.



When blending a rough surface with one which is semi finished, use this trick. Place a matchbook cover, or similar material under the end of the rasp which rides on the finished surface. Hold the material under the rasp as it is drawn over the work area. This protects the finished surface, while allowing the rear of the rasp to be lowered during rasping. It is easy to feel when to stop..just be alert. I am using a cardboard backed tape in the photo......somewhat difficult to see here.





This is the final shape, with basic outline here.







More to come, but not much more.

ret

Last edited by RET; 04-01-2009 at 10:16 PM.
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  #7  
Old 04-01-2009, 10:17 PM
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Always more to do...

Use the rasp and chisel for these final trim areas. Pay attention to the borders and be careful to not remove to much wood. Chisel out the corners and finish with sand paper on a block of wood or hard rubber.



RH side top.


LH side top.


RH side.


LH side.


LH bottom.


RH bottom.


I have had requests for dimensions, but I do not have them. I am changing as I go, depending on the needs as they emerge. The general goal is reduced weight, and raising the rifle to look through the scope without lowering my head to the stock. Silhouette rifles generally have these goals. In the end I will achieve, one goal, and MAY achieve the other. Sometimes the weight remains the same, but that is a secondary goal.

More to come.

ret

Last edited by RET; 04-08-2009 at 06:20 PM.
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Old 04-08-2009, 06:08 PM
RET
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A few more details...

True the top/bottom of the stock, along the action and barrel channel. Use a straight edge every time. Use a sanding block the extends several inches past the work on both ends. If one does not use a large sanding block, dips in the center of the work WILL result. The sandpaper passes the center of the work area often, but the edges less often, resulting in a dip.

Also, a sanding block keeps from rounding edges.






Shape grip area with a small flat metal, not wood, file about .5 inch wide, with a medium cut.







Shape the action sides.









More to come,

ret

Last edited by RET; 04-10-2009 at 11:12 AM.
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  #9  
Old 04-10-2009, 11:23 AM
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Shaping new bolt handle, port in stock

New bolt handle extension. Buy at Grainger for a few $. Buy one that is entirely resin. Thread the tap into knob until it bottoms out. Chuck in drill press. Shape with a file and sand paper while it spins in drill press. This is to be epoxied onto the factory handle, which is to short for my liking.





Mark port area. Also, tape the edges of the aluminum butt plate. Shape until the the rasp teeth skim the tape. This is close enough for final sanding.



Remove wood as needed.





More to come.

ret

Last edited by RET; 05-23-2009 at 09:32 AM.
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  #10  
Old 04-15-2009, 10:08 AM
RET
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A couple of shots of the port in the buttstock

I am trying to do as much work as possible with tools an average DIYS person may have. In this shot, the stock is screwed to a board, for holding purposes, to allow cartridge holes to be drilled in the stock port.
------------------------------------------------
Prior posts

Ural Overhaul I
https://rimfirecentral.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=261580

Ural Overhaul II
https://rimfirecentral.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=267755

Ural Overhaul III
https://rimfirecentral.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=268572

Ural Overhaul IV
https://rimfirecentral.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=269262

Ural Overhaul V
https://rimfirecentral.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=270753

Ural Overhaul VI
https://rimfirecentral.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=269262

Ural Overhaul VII
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=277423

Ural Overhaul VIII
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=309937

Ural Overhaul IX
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=334933

Ural Overhaul X
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=349679




More to come,

ret


-------------------------------------

Last edited by RET; 07-29-2010 at 07:40 PM.
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