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Old 02-25-2009, 09:23 PM
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Ural Overhaul II



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The other rebuild thread is becoming to long.

So far the URAL 1 is moving from being a retired standard Russian target rifle toward a US Silhouette competition rifle. This is part of the stock work. My guess is that it is about 30% finished. I still need to re-attach the forearm and cut the vent ports.

The sawdust highlights the stock cracking at the wrist. It appears as if these stocks were not dried properly, because the cracks are common and always at the wrist.

Here are a few photos of the the rasping session.

Grip area straightened.


Stock altered to target configuration.




















I think that I can repair the cracks without replacing the cracked area.



RET
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Old 02-26-2009, 07:43 AM
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Second Thread

Great idea.

But, be sure to place a link from one thread to the other.
1st to 2nd, 2nd to 1st ... to maintain continuity.

Great thread(s) ... Alex aka: aom22

This second thread has been extended from an original first thread:
New Ural 1 overhaul.
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W. Edwards Deming ... Quality: It is not enough to do-your-best;
you must know what-to-do, and ... then ... do-your-best.
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Old 02-26-2009, 08:50 PM
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Great thread
I am just going to set back & watch....may even learn a trick or too

Midwest Swiss
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Old 02-26-2009, 10:20 PM
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Stock work continues

The stock has cast off and the toe is canted outward outward 5 degrees.
This is not a crucial measurement, but it is nice to match the stock belly with the amount of cant.







To match my neck length, in a head erect position, the recoil pad must be moved down. Rules allow a maximum of 7" from bore center line to toe of stock. This means the stock must be altered accordingly. This accomplishes lowering recoil pad and lightens the stock. I also need to add about 3 inches to length for my best fit. ( 4" if I remove the last 1 " and replace it also. I may need to move cheek piece back slightly. Using oak from a pallet for this task.









Gluing the forearm back tonight and trimming to length and cutting 45 degree rake tomorrow. Minimum of 8" forward of receiver face to tip of fore end tip.

Engagement surface in not square. Looks like a hand fit, in other words, no jigs or fixtures in original fitting. Correction needed for best trigger possible.






More posting tomorrow.

ret
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Old 02-27-2009, 02:36 PM
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I love watching knowledgeable people work on stuff. Good stuff!!!

That seemed like a leap, there at the end. From gluing stock to fixing trigger with no sequeway whatsoever. Whoa! My head's spinning.

I'll just sit over here by Midwest and watch until I get caught up.
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Old 02-27-2009, 05:04 PM
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You are right about the left turn in subject matter....

I was emailed about the trigger. I happen to be thinking about it, so posted it. Perhaps later would have better. Sorry.


Cutting the comb off tonight and it extending upward about .5 inches.

More stock work photos in a few minutes.

RET
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Old 02-27-2009, 05:44 PM
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Forend reattached......

Preparing to extend length of pull to about 14.5 inches. These rifles were mostly fired by non adults from the length of pull/ spacers....or just really small people..or people whom did not have the adjustments made properly.

Anyway, I need 14- 14.5' L.O.P
I will retain the toe "in" measurement. Americans use a 3/8" in at the toe. (generally) but these Russians are more than that. Mine is already cut off, so I am guessing about .5" prior to the cut. More will work, but .5 is about the max. people work with on a production basis.


I think the barrel channel was cut by hand. Notice it is uneven.





Belly removed to lighten weight. The area on the RH side of buttstock will be reduced in thickness by about 40%.




Cheek piece moved rearward and reduced by 50% or so, I will raise the comb and make the comb/ cheekpiece rollover by about 1/2 inch.



Reglued, Stronger at this joint than original wood. ( Epoxy)





Stock lengthened by 1 3/4 in two pieces of oak epoxied together. Buttplate attached to a metal piece in a routed channel. No metric bits so two passes with a 1/4 bit will work.





This is a way of visualizing how this will turn out. Always lay parts together and think about what to do, and just as important....order of the steps. Wrong order may mean bad news down the line. Need 7" drop at the toe.





Thinking through L.O.P without trigger in place. It is better to have the trigger in place if you have not tackled this prior. I will install prior to the expoxy.



Old channel/location for rail. I may shorten the rail, or not use at all.





More to come.


ret
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Old 02-28-2009, 08:21 AM
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Last message before I begin a new thread..

I do not like scrolling down a lot, so I 'll just start another thread next time.

This time: This stock has been somewhere that the former owner wanted to do some rasping. Unfortunately, they did not know what or how tp go about this task properly. Good intentions, bad outcomes. Notice the next few photos.

Dip is cheek piece is slightly noticeable here. Look at the red paper showing in the center of the comb. The beginning traces of the crime.






The trail becomes warmer. The dip deepens.



The full blown situation is revealed by a lone sheet of red paper.



My job here is to remove the dip either by cutting it out and replacing the wood, or rasping the wood around the dip to below the belly of the dip.

I must consider the goal.

FIRST: I need to raise the cheek piece to the level of the bore centerline.

SECOND: I may have up to a .5" rollover to the right in my case.

When balanced with the cast off, I need to carefully calculate the outcomes or risk a stock the could be disallowed in competition. If the .5" rollover extension is combined with the cast off, it could be over the .5" allowance. Conversely, the cast off, which is built in, may cancel the need for the rollover.
No need of cutting and rasping to just arrive at the same place

I'll need to lay this out and measure before the saw/ epoxy, rasp and sandpaper are involved.


More to come.

ret
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