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  #1  
Old 06-15-2006, 09:14 AM
ewingfox

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improvements/ modifications to the BB mechanics



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I am really impressed with everyone's workmanship with custom and reshaped BB stocks, but i was wondering if we could get a thread started about people's work on the bolt action, extractor modifications, trigger adjustments? I know that several posters have mentioned these things, but I haven't seen a thread dedicated, so....

Personally, I was appalled by the workmanship of the toggle and underside of the bolt. There are tooling marks and knicks all over the place, and I even started getting a discoloration (rust?) on the toggle, despite anal attention to keeping things oiled and clean. I have torn down the entire mechanism and have begun hand lapping/polishing all the parts. I will prolly have everything except the bolt itself parkerized after I have finished. I am also interested in improving the extractors.... I am having to "drive" the rounds in with what seems to be too much effort... FuzzyLimy mentions a repair for this, but to date I have chickened out actually filing the thing because I wasn't quite sure which surfaces need to be altered... any advice?


So... post 'em if you got 'em!
Ewing
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  #2  
Old 06-15-2006, 08:27 PM
woodchuckssuck
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well, i tried making a walnut bolt handle out of some scrap (but nice) walnut, i drilled the hole a bit crooked or something, so im gonna try again someday. I really dont like the plastic one thats on there. Im also going to try to jewel the bolt... but other than that i think its the best .22 action i own.
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  #3  
Old 06-16-2006, 09:02 AM
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Charlotte
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If you put a shell in a magazine, push down on the shell case to get a feel for how hard the spring pushes back. That is a "guide" for how much effort you should have to exert to push a (spent) shell case into the pocket on the bolt face. The outside claw/extractor is the primary thing you want to work on. With my BB the primary issue was the claw reached inward to the point that it was scoring or engraving the case. I used a combination of a needle file and either 400 or 600 grit wet dry sandpaper. I relieved the sharp edge with a slight angle which opened up the throat into the bolt face pocket giving the shell an easier initial entrance into the pocket. I had to relieve the underside of the claw only very little. Anyway, it is a "file a little and check, file a little and check" procedure. The more you sit and push a spent shell case in and out of that pocket, the more you will understand what is going on and where you need to file. The extractor on the other side should need less or no attention.
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  #4  
Old 06-20-2006, 11:29 AM
ewingfox

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Charlotte,

thanks for the advice! Did you disasemble/ remove the extractors to do this?. I think that I'll do the job this weekend while I have the entire assembly appart.
I have most of the bolt assembly hand lapped now... I was back and forth on the project until I noticed some tooling marks that were allowing grime to accumilate... I even noticed some corrosion forming on the back side of the toggle (near where the disasembly pin is located) that would not come off with cleaner and a brush. This really drove me to polish/lap the entire assembly. I am back and forth on weather I should parkerize it when I am done, or just leave it pollished.


Any suggestions?

Also, the trigger action is FANTASTIC! I do not think I will mess with it at all other then adding a trigger stop screw. I am going to see if there is a way I can incorperate this into the trigger assembly (like some come from the factory) rather than adding one to the trigger guard, but that part will have to wait for me to install two tile floors in my house. <groan>

Keep

Ewing
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Old 06-20-2006, 12:00 PM
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midwest swiss
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I would would leave it polished ewingfox. I am hand polishing my
bolt & toggle too, but didn't take toggle apart. You can polish the
hammer too if you take the trigger group out as an assembly.
I did Fuzzy's & Charlotte's extractor tip with out taking the extractors (thanks guys for that tip)
out just go slow & careful ewingfox.
I will post a pic. of which pin to take out & the trigger group
will come out as an assembly.




When you have the trigger group out you can also adjust the
trigger pull weight. You just have to unhook the
sear spring ,turn the sear spring eye out to add more pull or in
to have a lighter pull. I turned mine in 3 full turns to have a trigger
pull of 14 oz. The polishing should make are BB's operate like a Swiss clock LOL
Good luck..... Midwest Swiss

Last edited by midwest swiss; 10-07-2010 at 07:18 PM.
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  #6  
Old 06-20-2006, 04:53 PM
riggins
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midwest swiss; if you do not mind me asking where did you get that scope rail? It is a must have. If they have a web site, please post a link. I got a BB last week, and I would like this scope rail. Does it accept standard Weaver rings?

TIA

riggins
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  #7  
Old 06-20-2006, 06:57 PM
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midwest swiss
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Riggins go to page 4 on this forum,its the last thread.
The rail works very well, I think its well worth the money.
Yes you can use standard weaver rings.
Swiss

Last edited by midwest swiss; 06-20-2006 at 09:35 PM.
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  #8  
Old 06-20-2006, 07:28 PM
riggins
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midwest swiss; thanks for the reminder. I saw that post all those long months ago when I did not have a BB and forgot about it. I have sent them an email.

riggins
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Old 06-20-2006, 09:41 PM
gpkon66
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coming thru again

Thanks, midwest, once again you make things clear. I can take apart cars, design fixtures and tooling(and have them work) but I sure do have a hard time seeing things on some guns. I'll have to try this as I really prefer the trigger pull on my BB to my CM-2, and I'd like it lighter. Thanks, Gary
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  #10  
Old 06-21-2006, 09:50 AM
ewingfox

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Thanks!

Midwest Swiss....

Thanks for the pics... it makes me a lot more comfortable to dig into it when I hear others are doing it. I agree that polished is the way to go... I am thinking about having my buddy the gunsmith do this trick he does to his guns where he overdrills any pivot point and installs brass bushings for new cromolly pins to ride in... he has this one 1911 that has the crispest and cleanest trigger I have ever seen... no slack anywhere, and the gun is a 1940's model that has seen way more range days than any of my guns. I wouldn't do it to the trigger assy, just to the toggle bolt assy.

M.S. are you going to polish the underside of the bolt? you have the same tooling marks all over the place that I do... I was just worried that this may affect the way the bolt cycles.. are those two grooves connecting/ riding with the reciever? or is the ridge that runs through the center?

thanks a million!

Ewing

keep
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  #11  
Old 06-21-2006, 10:32 AM
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midwest swiss
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Yes I have tooling marks all over the place too.
If the tooling marks are deep I don't try to polish them out.
I am just smoothing things up & taking all the sharp edges down.
Just don't get to nuts with the polishing you are taking material off.
The brass bushing idea sounds interesting.
Swiss
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  #12  
Old 11-29-2006, 03:34 PM
jammer

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So is there an update on the polishing/lapping?

How did you polish? I'd love more details as there is plenty of roughness on these. But I LOVE my BB!

I'm also open to more information about how others mounted their scopes. I just put it on that rail that was there, but I have a Mueller scope that needs mounting on it and really probably need a better rail and also think some QD type rings would be great. Any thoughts?
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  #13  
Old 11-29-2006, 04:51 PM
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Biathlon Gunsmithing

For those of us ...
... don't have:
........................ good mechanical skills
........................ appropriate technical knowledge
........................ a proper workshop
........................ the necessary tools
........................ the time
........................ the inclination




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Jeweled rifle bolts (I remember admiring the Winchester M70 bolts - as a young boy ... did you?) and many other metal objects are capable of being jeweled. Jeweling is a polishing/finishing process that will put swirl marks on metal. The swirls will obscure minor surface defects such as tool marks, scuffs and handling scratches while, being very esthetically pleasing.

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Last edited by aom22; 12-01-2006 at 07:20 PM. Reason: Additional Info/Image
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  #14  
Old 05-21-2007, 09:53 PM
GunTech
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Thanks for the tip on Altius. He's not too far away. Sure are a lot of gunsmiths in Montana.
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  #15  
Old 12-28-2007, 07:57 AM
Mjoollnir

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Quote:
Originally Posted by midwest swiss View Post
I would would leave it polished ewingfox. I am hand polishing my
bolt & toggle too, but didn't take toggle apart. You can polish the
hammer too if you take the trigger group out as an assembly.
I did Fuzzy's & Charlotte's extractor tip with out taking the extractors (thanks guys for that tip)
out just go slow & careful ewingfox.
I will post a pic. of which pin to take out & the trigger group
will come out as an assembly.


[

When you have the trigger group out you can also adjust the
trigger pull weight. You just have to unhook the
sear spring ,turn the sear spring eye out to add more pull or in
to have a lighter pull. I turned mine in 3 full turns to have a trigger
pull of 14 oz. The polishing should make are BB's operate like a Swiss clock LOL
Good luck..... Midwest Swiss
Thanks for the link.

I'd rather take the action out than have to cut and paste on the mechanism.

Anyone know if the fully adjustable trigger of the Biathlon will bolt up to the BB?
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