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  #1  
Old 01-03-2020, 01:46 PM
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Sticky cylinder question



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I have an old Colt and a S&W 34 that both developed a problem where the cases stick when I try to eject the spent ones. They come out but take a lot more effort than they used to and definitely more than my .38. Neither has been shot much so I don't know why the cases would swell to the point of sticking.

I've tried scrubbing them with a bronze brush and changing ammo without much luck. Any ideas for solving this? I really like shooting them but it's not much fun if I have to struggle every load.
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Old 01-03-2020, 07:29 PM
ammohog
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My old Frontier Scouts did suffer from the same affliction. My first thought was the ejection rod was hanging up. What worked for me is JB Paste and a bronze brush about 20 laps for each cylinder chamber. I really can't remember if I had to do it twice, but if once doesn't get the job done........... Hope this helps.... AH

Last edited by ammohog; 01-03-2020 at 07:31 PM.
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Old 01-03-2020, 09:56 PM
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Another option is to use a hand drill with a short cleaning rod attached to a bronze brush with CLP or oil. Buzz the chamber with the brass bore brush and oil. Another option is to use a barrel mop with flitz polishing compound attached to a short cleaning rod in a hand drill.

I generally use Flitz but either Method will help and I do this with most of my semi autos if they start failing to eject. Iíve even used Flitz on my Savage bolt action when I would get an occasional failure to extract. Just donít go to deep and get into the rifling.

I always clean the barrel and chamber thoroughly after using Flitz and it is a good Idea to run some patches through the chamber after you buzz it.
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Old 01-03-2020, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VASCAR2 View Post
Another option is to use a hand drill with a short cleaning rod attached to a bronze brush with CLP or oil. Buzz the chamber with the brass bore brush and oil. Another option is to use a barrel mop with flitz polishing compound attached to a short cleaning rod in a hand drill.

I generally use Flitz but either Method will help and I do this with most of my semi autos if they start failing to eject. Iíve even used Flitz on my Savage bolt action when I would get an occasional failure to extract. Just donít go to deep and get into the rifling.

I always clean the barrel and chamber thoroughly after using Flitz and it is a good Idea to run some patches through the chamber after you buzz it.
Another vote for the drill option. I have never had to be more aggressive than shooters choice though. I usually get a brush that is reasonably close to the chamber size, and chuck the brush directly to the drill. It may only be luck, but I have never needed any additional abrasive added. The drill seems to do all the hard labor.
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Old 01-03-2020, 11:37 PM
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Are you running the chambers dry or lightly oiled?
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Old 01-04-2020, 04:54 AM
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It might be lead build up in the cylinders. Before you take a drill to your gun , take a little piece of this https://www.cabelas.com/product/Birc...iantId=3360324 and run it thru the cylinders. Be careful, it does remove bluing.
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Old 01-04-2020, 10:04 AM
Big Pete10
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Cool

I run a note snake thru my 617 at the first sign of sticky extraction.
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Old 01-04-2020, 04:52 PM
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I'm running dry chambers. Should I have oiled the chambers? I've never done that before.

I can try the JB paste or Flitz but I'd like to avoid anything that messes with the blueing on the Colts.

Wouldn't bore solvent and a brush clear lead or other buildup?
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Old 01-04-2020, 10:14 PM
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Take a worn brush, or a 17 caliber brush if you have one, wrap a patch around it, put some Hoppes #9 solvent on the patch, then apply either Flitz or JB, and scrub with that.
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Old 01-04-2020, 10:17 PM
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There is no blueing on the inside of the cylinder.
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Old 01-05-2020, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Toomany22s View Post
There is no blueing on the inside of the cylinder.
If it is blue on the outside, it is blue in the chambers unless someone has polished it out.
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Old 01-05-2020, 07:55 AM
Highmiles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PokeyOkie View Post
I'm running dry chambers. Should I have oiled the chambers? I've never done that before.

I can try the JB paste or Flitz but I'd like to avoid anything that messes with the blueing on the Colts.

Wouldn't bore solvent and a brush clear lead or other buildup?
That is why I just use a brush in a drill with shooters choice. My Colts that I used for Cowboy action have thousands of rounds through them. (I shot at least 250 practice shots a week through them for many years). The bluing is still in the cylinders, and in fact the guns still look new. Yes it removed the lead.
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Old 02-26-2020, 10:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Highmiles View Post
That is why I just use a brush in a drill with shooters choice. My Colts that I used for Cowboy action have thousands of rounds through them. (I shot at least 250 practice shots a week through them for many years). The bluing is still in the cylinders, and in fact the guns still look new. Yes it removed the lead.
Possibly a stupid question but which product by Shooter's Choice are you using? (I googled "shooters choice" and found several different products.)

Last edited by saidentary; 02-26-2020 at 10:24 PM.
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Old 02-27-2020, 12:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toomany22s View Post
There is no blueing on the inside of the cylinder.
Yeah, this is impossible. It just looks super shiny and almost chromed, but they are ALL blued inside and out. The chambers are cut, and all machining is done before bluing.

Have you eliminated the ammo??? Unless you are shooting longs, or shorts, then long rifles, you should not have any sticking unless you are running super cheap ammo. Try some CCI Mini Mags and see what happens. Ammo should be the first culprit to eliminate.
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  #15  
Old 02-27-2020, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
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Possibly a stupid question but which product by Shooter's Choice are you using? (I googled "shooters choice" and found several different products.)
Just the regular bore cleaner.
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