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  #1  
Old 03-06-2009, 07:11 PM
Kurly
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Anschutz Bedding Tape



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Awhile back, there was a thread on the bedding tape that comes with some of the Anschutz rifles (the green bedding tape that's placed in the action and forend). Thanks to the generosity of John from Australia, he sent me some sheets of this to try out.

I was wondering if you'll could provide some insight as to how and where to place this bedding material. I'm thinking that the action should probably be done, but given the relative stiffness of it and the fact that I'll have to cut a piece to fit, what would you'll propose to be the best manner/method of doing it?

Is there a nifty way to outline/stencil/pattern the inside of the action so as to know what dimensions or outline to cut?

I've got like 3, 6x6" sheets of this so I'm wondering how best to proceed. I thought this would be a good way to compare to those MPRs that had it added and those that didn't (like mine). Thanks,

Kurly
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  #2  
Old 03-06-2009, 07:31 PM
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Gizzy
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Just take a piece of plain paper, and lay out and cut a stencil of your action by fitting it to the bottom of your action. You will also have to remove wood also. You will have to remove the same amount as the thickness of the tape, so your action will set back in thre correct place for proper mag. fit and the action screws. If it weere me, and I was hogging out wood, I would bed it with the real stuff instead of that tape. How will you be sure to get the wood smooth a level before laying in the tape?? Can't be off any at all, or the action will be in a bind. Maybe its just me, but if I were taking the wood out anyway, I would just go ahead and put in some Devcon and be done with it. Just a thought.
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  #3  
Old 03-06-2009, 07:49 PM
greatape

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I dont' think there's any reason or need to remove wood when using the cushion back tape.
Place the tape in your action cut to fit and reinstall your action. The tape is not thick enough to require removing wood.
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  #4  
Old 03-06-2009, 08:33 PM
Kurly
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The green tape stuff (it looks slightly different than what the pics I've seen from other Anschutz) but apparently it's of the same material. I would guess that it's maybe 1/16" at most.

I don't want to remove any wood nor bed anything. A buddy of mine had his old 64MRP bedded professionally and even had the barrel resonated-tested -- bedding didn't do a darn thing and he said he thought it was slightly less accurate than without the bedding. I just thought this would be an easy way to try and match what some of the other Anshutz have in them and given the tape's property, would help secure things down and dampen any vibrations.

I'll try the paper idea and see how that goes. Will hopefully get to the project next weekend so if there's some other thoughts, would love to hear from other folks as well!

P.S. Would I need to cut out the tape in one continuous piece to place in the action to achieve best results (does it matter??) or can I just cut out two separate pieces for the sides of the action, one piece for the rear part of the action and then for the front.

Also, does the 64MPR benefit from having the forend tape-bedded' as well?

Last edited by Kurly; 03-06-2009 at 08:36 PM.
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  #5  
Old 03-07-2009, 12:44 AM
MikeA.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurly View Post
The green tape stuff (it looks slightly different than what the pics I've seen from other Anschutz) but apparently it's of the same material. I would guess that it's maybe 1/16" at most.

I don't want to remove any wood nor bed anything. A buddy of mine had his old 64MRP bedded professionally and even had the barrel resonated-tested -- bedding didn't do a darn thing and he said he thought it was slightly less accurate than without the bedding. I just thought this would be an easy way to try and match what some of the other Anshutz have in them and given the tape's property, would help secure things down and dampen any vibrations.

I'll try the paper idea and see how that goes. Will hopefully get to the project next weekend so if there's some other thoughts, would love to hear from other folks as well!

P.S. Would I need to cut out the tape in one continuous piece to place in the action to achieve best results (does it matter??) or can I just cut out two separate pieces for the sides of the action, one piece for the rear part of the action and then for the front.

Also, does the 64MPR benefit from having the forend tape-bedded' as well?

I've not done my MPR but I have used a similar material in other guns including my 1416 HB. It's basically the same sort of thing that they did in the old 52Ds. Really all you're doing it trying to take out any excess play between the action and the stock to eliminate movement and vibration and provide a more uniform interface. It improves the fit in the same way that a gasket does. No need to remove any wood. It will compress down so that it's so thin that it's not necessary.

I did as was suggested - made a simple template with a piece of paper. It's fairly easy to outline the opennings for the action and screws. I placed it just along the bottom of the action about like you'd do for glass bedding. If you search back here you should find some pictures of the tape placement in the MPRs that came with it. I did a little more than that but not by much.

If you really put some time into it, then you might be able to find some optimal places along the length of the barrel to place some to best affect some particular resonance, but I didn't have the patience and not sure that it's worth it since that probably will change with ammo, temperature, etc. Nice thing about the tape is that you can move it around before you stick it down. Also it will help to float the barrel by that tiny bit more so if you have some touching it might relieve that a little.

I did see some improvement in my 1416 but that was combined with adding a front pillar and some other tweaking at the same time so hard to attribute it to any one thing. I wouldn't expect any night/day changes.
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  #6  
Old 03-07-2009, 04:28 AM
NW Miner

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Tape

Hi Kurly

glad you have started a thread, as I said I dont have a project at the moment but will be following to see how it all pans out.......hopefully nice little bug holes

good luck

JB
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  #7  
Old 03-07-2009, 08:51 AM
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Smile Kurly

My Sbr Anschutz Has The Green Tap On The 2 Sides At The Top Of The Action The Lenth Of It None On The Bottom
Bill T
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  #8  
Old 03-07-2009, 12:18 PM
MikeA.
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Originally Posted by bill from the hi View Post
My Sbr Anschutz Has The Green Tap On The 2 Sides At The Top Of The Action The Lenth Of It None On The Bottom
Bill T
When you say along the sides at the top of the action, do you mean only at the sides and nothing at all at the bottom of the action where it touches the stock? When I said "bottom" above I meant only along the bottom of the action basically as it would be if bedded and not out further along the barrel channel.

Here's the thread and pictures from the post that I was referencing that shows the placement that I was describing:

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=246160



Is yours different than that? Just wondering if they take the time to do anything different for specific guns. I'd think that they'd just slap it in there in the same way for all of them but maybe not.
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  #9  
Old 03-07-2009, 12:47 PM
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The concept of bedding tape has me scratching my head. I had formerly believed that the concept of bedding was to ensure an intimate and rigid attachment of the action to the stock. Hence the idea of an aluminum bedding block or rigid epoxy/Acraglas bedding.

It seems like tape would reduce the rigidity of the interface between the action and the stock. The tape is compliant, not rigid. I hope someone can explain why the tape is a good thing.
...
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  #10  
Old 03-07-2009, 01:07 PM
MikeA.
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That was my thinking at first too. A "hard bedded" material (obviously) is more rigid but when the tape is compressed it's not very flexible. As I'd said it tends to act in the same way that a gasket improves fit between two parts that are not perfectly uniform. A perfectly done machining and mating of parts/bedding likely would be better but, short of that, the tape performs much of the same function by providing a more uniform interface between the two parts and reducing play and resulting vibration. Rather than a replacement for bedding, I'd think of it as a cheaper/easier way to get much of the same benefit.
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  #11  
Old 03-07-2009, 01:17 PM
All4fun
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeA. View Post
That was my thinking at first too. A "hard bedded" material (obviously) is more rigid but when the tape is compressed it's not very flexible. As I'd said it tends to act in the same way that a gasket improves fit between two parts that are not perfectly uniform. A perfectly done machining and mating of parts/bedding likely would be better but, short of that, the tape performs much of the same function by providing a more uniform interface between the two parts and reducing play and resulting vibration. Rather than a replacement for bedding, I'd think of it as a cheaper/easier way to get much of the same benefit.
Many Thanks. That helps quite a bit.
...
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  #12  
Old 03-07-2009, 02:17 PM
greatape

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeA. View Post
That was my thinking at first too. A "hard bedded" material (obviously) is more rigid but when the tape is compressed it's not very flexible. As I'd said it tends to act in the same way that a gasket improves fit between two parts that are not perfectly uniform. A perfectly done machining and mating of parts/bedding likely would be better but, short of that, the tape performs much of the same function by providing a more uniform interface between the two parts and reducing play and resulting vibration. Rather than a replacement for bedding, I'd think of it as a cheaper/easier way to get much of the same benefit.
That is what was explained to me as well.
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  #13  
Old 03-08-2009, 04:38 AM
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stock tape

I believe the tape on the MPR was no more then a after thought and the
stock was not recessed for it
and when the screws are tension to original factory specifications
Some of the stocks were cracking
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  #14  
Old 03-08-2009, 07:59 AM
bill from the hi

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Smile Tap

Hi Kurly The Picture Is The Way My Anie Sbr Is Bedded My Back Piller Was A Little High I Took Some Off So It Was Flsh With The Wood The Gun Shootes Great
Bill T
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  #15  
Old 03-08-2009, 08:34 AM
chris/a

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeA. View Post
That was my thinking at first too. A "hard bedded" material (obviously) is more rigid but when the tape is compressed it's not very flexible. As I'd said it tends to act in the same way that a gasket improves fit between two parts that are not perfectly uniform. A perfectly done machining and mating of parts/bedding likely would be better but, short of that, the tape performs much of the same function by providing a more uniform interface between the two parts and reducing play and resulting vibration. Rather than a replacement for bedding, I'd think of it as a cheaper/easier way to get much of the same benefit.

PLAY AND VIBRATIONS
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