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  #16  
Old 05-02-2014, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by edlmann View Post
The absolute best for your 44US and 144US military rifles. Hands down. Regards, Rick.
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  #17  
Old 05-03-2014, 03:50 PM
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What do I always say. Wood is a God made product with imperfections. It all up to personal preference. Last junker I rescued was colored with BLO and mineral spirits (I think) and it's absolutely beautiful. They all turn out a little bit different. Try various colors on a sample of similar material so you can see how it changes the grain and other features in the stock.
Pete
ps-read any post by noremf! He's got a sticky or 2 that's well worth the read on this.
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  #18  
Old 05-06-2014, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by lornedavis View Post
If the stock has been completely stripped and washed, Min-Wax Red Mahogany, two coats. Just the right amount of red!
L46ALS project ~ Min-Wax Red Mahogany ~~JMJ~~

Last edited by Mossbergman; 05-06-2014 at 09:19 PM.
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  #19  
Old 05-07-2014, 01:15 AM
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WOW that is gorgeous... except the bolt on the wrong side.
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  #20  
Old 05-07-2014, 08:19 AM
foxfirejem
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Originally Posted by Ken H View Post
WOW that is gorgeous... except the bolt on the wrong side.
X3


I have a stock that is the color of the in the before pictures. What were the steps that you used to achieve the final results. BTW, I do have a can of Minwax Red Mahogany.

Thanks,
James
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  #21  
Old 05-08-2014, 01:35 AM
Mossbergman
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I scraped the stock down ( I use a pc of glass) and lightly sanded it to remove any old finish ,wet it and let it dry and fine sanded it again . Then the Stain . it's a rub it on rub it off 'till ya get the effect you want. not all woods take it as fast or deep as others . Once the stain was as I wanted I let it dry a few days and rubbed it out again and started the Tru-Oil .~This is the part that takes awhile. I rub the first coat or two on in circles so to help fill the grain faster. as it's mostly removed with 0000 steel wool between coats. I don't like Glossy stocks , that's for coffee tables, I build up the Tru -Oil coats ,doing the 0000 SW between ea until the grain is completely filled and then some. You get to that point where you move the stock and the grain dances like a hologram then another coat or two for good measure. I take a watered down rubbing compound and very lightly take the Gloss away. the a coat of wax ,after a few days of curing. it's lot of work and uses most of the bottle of Tru-Oil., but she shore is sweet when she's don. I like the Tru -Oil cause if ya scratch yer stock all ya need is to wet your finger with some and wipe over it and it's gone. Just like magic. got a 800CM I really need to get started on soon. Good Luck m it's not hard just time consuming ~~ ~~JMJ~~
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  #22  
Old 05-10-2014, 11:33 AM
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Just came back from Home Depot. I was in the paint section looking at stain colors when I noticed that Minwax has stained called Gunstock 231 so I bought a 1/2 Pt to try it. Never noticed it before today. The sample looked similar to the old Mossberg red. I have a 144 LSB to redo so that will be my guinea pig. I'll take a few before and after shots to see how close it is.
Scott...
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  #23  
Old 05-10-2014, 04:42 PM
Aladinbama
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I've been known to add in drops of Minwax stains to my 50/50 mix of BLO and Turpentine. I'll play around with a dropper and a few different stains until I get the color I want. It has made for some mighty pretty end results.
Oh, and yes, you have to shake it as it really doesn't stay mixed, but it works really well for me I'll see if I can get some picture of something I did this with (Remington 40X Standard Barrel).

Here are a couple examples of just the 50/50 oil with no stains incorporated - this is my usual. I didn't strip the first, just cleaned in up really well. The second had to be stripped as someone kind of messed up with the Tru-oil.
Before;

After;

Before;

After;
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  #24  
Old 05-16-2014, 10:15 PM
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