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  #1  
Old 01-14-2010, 07:02 PM
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eTrigger Adjustable Electronic Trigger System



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After a long time developing and refining the design, the electronic trigger is nearly complete. As readers of the RFC forums may already know, I started working on a 10-22 electronic trigger primarily as a means to enable high-quality bullpup stocks with excellent triggers.

(https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=289809)

Based on feedback from the RFC members, I decided to redesign the trigger so that the same basic parts could also be used with standard gunstocks.

The result is the first electronic trigger system for the 10-22 platform, that is easily adjustable for pull weight and travel by the user, with no gunsmithing, no special tools, no polishing, no stoning, and no cursing. The user simply removes a few screws, changes the springs on the trigger switch bar, and the result is a predictable trigger pull. The standard model will come with a set of springs that allows the user to choose any pull weight from 2.25oz (65 grams) on up to 3.55lbs (1.575kg). Higher and lower pull weights can be achieved with an optional spring set. Best of all, this tuning can be done while at the range, without taking the action out of the receiver or the receiver out of the stock. You don't have to commit to a certain pull weight before you get the trigger, or even before you head to the range. The position of the trigger shoe surface is also adjustable.

All of the crucial action parts (hammer, springs, sear, disconnector, pins, mag latch plunger) are factory Ruger, so future parts availability shouldn't be a problem, either.





If you are interested in following the prototype testing and range reports, please subscribe to this thread. Depending upon the level of interest, a limited production run may be planned in the very near future. This style of trigger is very successful in Olympic rapid fire pistol, and now, it will be available for 10-22 shooters too.
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  #2  
Old 01-15-2010, 03:49 PM
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For those who like to see parts in progress:

Cover - Trigger Bar - Housing
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  #3  
Old 01-15-2010, 04:37 PM
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Just looking.

It looks like some of the stuff under the trigger assembly could be moved into the stock area with a wire feed.

I love to see people thinking and working on stuff.

Thanks for the post.

I wished the original trigger was not so much crap..........oh well it's great for the aftermarket crowd.

Your friend, Chuckersgun.
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Old 01-15-2010, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckersgun View Post
Just looking.

It looks like some of the stuff under the trigger assembly could be moved into the stock area with a wire feed.

I love to see people thinking and working on stuff.

Thanks for the post.

I wished the original trigger was not so much crap..........oh well it's great for the aftermarket crowd.

Your friend, Chuckersgun.
Chucker,
That may come down the road, but for now the design goal is for a drop in replacement.
Regards, Ray
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Old 01-15-2010, 05:51 PM
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hiding the electronics in the stock

Chucker, that is certainly an option with this setup. The upper half and lower half are modular, and if someone wanted to make their own switch design, they could use the upper half (the mechanical action) and the electronic guts as well. You could mill out a pocket in the side of a stock to house the electronics, sort of like the back of an electric guitar.

In a way, the electronics will be hidden in the stock if you end up using this to build a bullpup.
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  #6  
Old 01-15-2010, 05:57 PM
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Will it work manually after the battery dies ?
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  #7  
Old 01-15-2010, 06:47 PM
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battery life

The trigger as configured will not work with a completely dead battery, there is no manual connector.

The battery life is approx 40,000 firings on a full alkaline 9V, and you can leave the battery in the trigger for well over a year without it going dead. The baseline current draw is 30 microamps when it is sitting there with the cap charged.

As the battery gets weaker, the "refresh rate" slows which limits the maximum rate of fire, so if you pull the trigger and nothing happens, you can wait a second and try again and get the shot. It doesn't just stop working cold turkey. It won't stop working unexpectedly.

If you notice that the maximum shot rate is too sluggish for your liking, it's time to change the battery. However, I have fired it on 9V that are "dead to the world" in that their voltage has dropped down to the 6-7V range. An average shooter could power it with the batteries they remove from smoke detectors every six months as recommended, since those batteries are still plenty-full for shooting purposes.
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Old 01-15-2010, 07:22 PM
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tag for future updates
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  #9  
Old 01-15-2010, 08:11 PM
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I am very interested in this project. Nice work

swampf0x
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  #10  
Old 01-15-2010, 08:18 PM
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I am very interested. Any idea on what the price may be?
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Old 01-15-2010, 08:40 PM
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Cool idea what kind of fire rate would we be talking about on a full battery vs. one thats on its last few rounds?
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Old 01-15-2010, 08:40 PM
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uh huh

Quote:
Originally Posted by 007 View Post
I am very interested. Any idea on what the price may be?
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  #13  
Old 01-15-2010, 09:09 PM
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don't know the upper limit

Until I do a test fire with live rounds cycling the action for me, the best I can say is it will do at least 3-4 rounds per second with a good battery. That is about all the faster I can manually cycle the action and dry fire it. As we do the live fire testing, I will do some timed 25-round mag strings and get some more accurate ROF capabilities.

EDIT - as of second test fire, the max rate of fire is pretty darn fast with a fresh battery.

This trigger is more about precision and ultra-clean breaks, rather than speed. Imagine a reliable 2oz trigger, that can go to 3.5lbs and back again.

As stated before, the maximum achievable ROF will drop as the battery gets older. The circuitry is designed to be extremely efficient. I can simulate it, but I think that there is no substitute for real world testing.

A regular alkaline 9V PP3 battery has 565 mAh @ 9V worth of energy, with a 2ohm internal resistance. That translates to 18300 Joules, or abt 33900 fully charged shots.

A rechargable NiMH in the PP3-style case has 280 to 300 mAh @ 7.2-9.6V worth, 9400 Joules or about 17400 shots.

A lithium ultralife pp3 has 1200mAh @ 9V with an 18 ohm internal resistance, 38800 Joules or about 72000 shots!

When the firing capacitor is fully charged, a shot will dump .54 joules into the solenoid. However, this is actually more than is needed. If you fire super-quick, you will actually use less energy per shot, but since the overall current drain rate is greater on the battery with rapid fire, the effective life of the battery is probably still reduced by rapid firing.

Needless to say, battery life is also affected by ambient temp and a bunch of other factors too. In the end, it will just take a lot of testing, but in theory...

Last edited by BulZi; 02-17-2010 at 02:34 PM.
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  #14  
Old 01-15-2010, 09:10 PM
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definitely subscribing to this. looks really interesting.
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  #15  
Old 01-16-2010, 05:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 007 View Post
I am very interested. Any idea on what the price may be?
Too early for anything accurate, but a "buck-three-eighty" is the best we can do right now!(
Some parts are very easy, but others require several setups and special fixtures, some of which have yet to be made. Here is a photo of the vise setup for the hammer strut hole. This will be done with a special fixture.
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