Fitting a Magnum Cylinder to a Ruger Single Six??? Help needed... - RimfireCentral.com Forums

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  #1  
Old 11-21-2009, 08:08 PM
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Fitting a Magnum Cylinder to a Ruger Single Six??? Help needed...



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I bought a SS that only came with the lr cylinder. I would like a mag cylinder for it.

MY buddy who deals at gun shows can get me one for $50. I have heard that one of these would need fitted to my gun.

My question is, how much would I be looking at for a gunsmith to do the work?
Is this the best option?
How much work is involved for the smith?

I also know you can send the gun back to Ruger and they will fit one:

Would I be better off to go this route and send it back to Ruger?
What all does this entail for those that have gone this route?
How would I ship it?
How much does this cost (ballpark)?
How long would they have it (ball park)?

I would really love some advice from some guys who have had this done, one or both ways.
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  #2  
Old 11-21-2009, 11:13 PM
dangerranger
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its been my experiance that if it phyisicaly fits into the gun it will work. I would tho have my smith check it for proper timing. some will do this for you for free some will add a min charge. but basicly they are going to cock the pisto [ on an empty cylinder] and slide a tight fitting rod down the barrel and into the chamber. if the rod hits the side of the chamber its out of time. DR.
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  #3  
Old 11-22-2009, 08:53 AM
ElrodCod
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It'll probably be more cost effective to sell your gun and buy a Single Six that comes with both cylinders.
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  #4  
Old 11-22-2009, 09:49 AM
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I have "fitted" a couple of magnum cylinders and they worked great. As dangerranger said "if the cylinder will physically fit into the frame" you shouldn't have any problems. If it will not fit all you have to do is take a diamond knife hone and work on the forward end until it will fit. Take just a very little off at a time, keep the end flat and perpendicular to the sides. It needs to fit snugly. To check for proper timeing slide a barrel cleaning rod (without anything screwed onto it) into the barrel and see if it will hang up on the cylinder sidewalls. More than likely you will not have a timing issue. All these cylinders are made to the same specs.
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  #5  
Old 11-22-2009, 01:30 PM
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bambam1723

Any chance that your friend could find a second one? My father lost his mag cylinder a few years back. I have not been able to find a replacement thus far. I understand he would have to charge more. Or maybe he could point us in the right direction?

Thanks jptopz
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  #6  
Old 11-22-2009, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bambam1723 View Post
I bought a SS that only came with the lr cylinder. I would like a mag cylinder for it.

MY buddy who deals at gun shows can get me one for $50. I have heard that one of these would need fitted to my gun.

My question is, how much would I be looking at for a gunsmith to do the work?
Is this the best option?
How much work is involved for the smith?

I also know you can send the gun back to Ruger and they will fit one:

Would I be better off to go this route and send it back to Ruger?
What all does this entail for those that have gone this route?
a phone call to SR will answer most of these questions
How would I ship it?
you can ship directly to SR and they can ship back to you. UPS/FEDEX
How much does this cost (ballpark)?
my friend has his SBH done and iirc, it was 100 for the CF but dont know about RFs.
How long would they have it (ball park)?
again CALL SR.

I would really love some advice from some guys who have had this done, one or both ways.
good luck
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  #7  
Old 11-22-2009, 03:13 PM
dangerranger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jptopz View Post
bambam1723

Any chance that your friend could find a second one? My father lost his mag cylinder a few years back. I have not been able to find a replacement thus far. I understand he would have to charge more. Or maybe he could point us in the right direction?

Thanks jptopz
Loose mag cylinders come up fairly regularly, watch for them, here, and on the ruger forum. for some reason 22lr cylinders are harder to come by. DR
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  #8  
Old 11-22-2009, 03:24 PM
kwilfong
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I thought that the LR-only Sigle Sixes had tighter barrels than the convertibles. Was I wrong?
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  #9  
Old 11-22-2009, 05:26 PM
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dangerranger

Thank you for the Info. I will keep my eyes open.
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  #10  
Old 11-22-2009, 05:27 PM
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Doubtful.
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  #11  
Old 11-22-2009, 07:41 PM
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Hello, I must add that just because it fits doesn't mean it fits proper. I am a gunsmith and I have to chime in so that some new shooter with less experience or common sense don't go to thinking that anything that pops into their revolver window that fits will work safely or as designed. Some folks might follow this idea and think it is ok to use a center fire cylinder for a 9mm in any old 357, etc just because it fits. Not so in any caliber friends.
Most cylinders will pop in the 22 Ruger and often be timed fine due to close production tolerences, but they must have correct hand length to insure it "carries up" properly and locks into battery correctly. Many will time fine without adjustment, but some folks will find that even though the cylinder fits and seemingly cocks fine and sounds like it times, will find out that it may shave lead because it was not actually in line - hence the ranging rod. Also, the gap should be checked to make sure it is somewhere around .004 to .010. The bolt may need some adjustment as well as it may drag a little on the cylinder and create a more profound line and accelerate wear with less use than normal.
So, it isn't just a pop in, and I would never recommend shooting it without a gunsmith running proper checks for you-an inexpensive task. Also fairly cheap to have Ruger fit a new one serialized specifically for your revolver which they will warranty. If your gun goes south, and you send it in with a cylinder that wasn't marked by them, your warranty will be void.
Just a few things to think over.
Best-MC
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  #12  
Old 11-22-2009, 07:53 PM
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Very good advice.
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  #13  
Old 11-30-2009, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
if the rod hits the side of the chamber its out of time.
Where the cylinder locks up is controlled by the notches cut into the cylinder. If the barrel and cylinder do not line up, then the notches in the cylinder are cut in the wrong place, and it is going to be cheaper to get another cylinder than try and fix it. Timing refers to the lock up relationship between the cylinder and the sear. This is controled by the hand. One of three things is goin to happen. Either the hand is to long, and the cylinder is going to lock up before the hammer, not alowing the sear to engage the hammer at full cock. In this case, you need to remove a little material from the hand until the cylinder and hammer lock up at the exact same moment. If the hand is to short, the hammer is going to lock up before the cylinder, and you will have to turn the cylinder by hand to get it to lock. In this case, you can try and pean the hand to strech it a little bit, or get a new hand, and remove material until it's right. Third, the timing will be right, and no further sdjustment will be nesasary. Also make sure there is not exsessive cylinder gap. If it's to tight, chuck it in a lathe and take a little off. If its to big, it's cheaper to get another cylinder than to try and fix it.
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  #14  
Old 11-30-2009, 10:55 PM
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if you alter the hand to fit the new MAG cyl the LR cyl will no longer work.
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  #15  
Old 12-09-2009, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aladdin View Post
if you alter the hand to fit the new MAG cyl the LR cyl will no longer work.
Hrrumph
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