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  #1  
Old 01-07-2008, 09:43 PM
RICOCHET

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hi, all,

will be doing a D&T on the trigger tomorrow, got a 8x36 set screw cuz my
tap is the same size and have a #29 drill bit. okay, got the parts,

but, looking at the wrap around URX grip assy, looks like the full grip has to be
removed, slid off from the rear.

anything i should be aware of when removing the grip such as springs
going boing, or parts falling out? never took it apart, and dont wanna
have to be ordering parts that i dont know the names of, lol,

thanks, all,

rico....








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  #2  
Old 01-07-2008, 10:36 PM
chim
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Remove the right side first, and install it last. This makes it easier because the safety and slide release hang over the grip on the left side. The grip needs to move down on the left side for removal, and up for reinstallation. That's difficult when the right side of the grip is fastened. The URX grips kinda have a mind of their own. The front tips have a habit of wanting to get tied up in the trigger guard when you're not looking.

Keep the pistol flat with the right side up. Remove the right grip screw. Pry the right grip up, and note the locations of the disconnector and its spring, the arched T-shaped mag button spring and the mag safety wire. The right grip keeps these things in place. When you turn the pistol, the mag button and T-shaped spring will fall out - no biggie. The rest of the parts may stay in place or may not, depending upon how rough you need to get with the pistol.

Now lay the gun flat with the left side up. Remove the grip screw and pry the grip away at the bottom. With the grip loose on the right side, you will be able to work the grip down and away from the slide release lever. Lift the slide release lever from the pistol. Note how the small leg of the spring goes through the hole in the slide release lever.

To remove the trigger, two pins need to come out. First tap out the pin that engages with the disconnector. It only goes through the right half of the frame and the trigger. There's a hole in the left side of the frame to allow you to use a small punch to tap the pin out. Next tap out the trigger pivot pin.

When you reinstall the trigger pins, start with the pivot pin. Then tap the disconnector pin back in. Care should be taken with this pin to get it set to the right height. If you tap it in too far, the pin will tie the trigger up because it will either bind against the frame or enter the pin's access hole on the left side. It needs to be set deeply enough so it doesn't rub the inside of the right grip.

Hope this helps, and sorry if some of this is a repeat of info you already have................chim
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  #3  
Old 01-07-2008, 10:54 PM
speed647
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Subscribed, and bookmarked for future reference.

Thanks chim.
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  #4  
Old 01-07-2008, 11:48 PM
RICOCHET

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yea, chim,

ditto on that. printed your advice and will read it about 10 x's before i
start. and no. this is not a repeat of info. wow, all that just to remove the
trigger. well hope it is worth it.

a couple more breakdowns and will be taking this pistol apart like i've done
it a few times, lol,

thanks again for the response. tomorrow is DIY day, or i'll send you a small
box of parts, haha,

rico....








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  #5  
Old 01-08-2008, 06:23 AM
chim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RICOCHET View Post
........... wow, all that just to remove the
trigger. well hope it is worth it...........
It won't take as long to do it as I took to describe it. In case you haven't noticed, I can get kinda long-winded. Now go have some fun tinkering............chim
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  #6  
Old 01-08-2008, 01:06 PM
RICOCHET

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okay, guys,

got the trigger out, and parts all over the place. anything i dont need?
like a mag safety thingee? i notice that the mag needs to be inserted
for certain functioning, etc,

thanks, now to D & T the trigger,

rico....








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  #7  
Old 01-08-2008, 07:21 PM
RICOCHET

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just noticed,

the long flat bar that activates the sear is bent down-ward a bit right where the long thin wire
fits onto the notch.

is it supposed to be that way?

rico....









Last edited by RICOCHET; 01-08-2008 at 10:00 PM.
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  #8  
Old 01-08-2008, 10:08 PM
chim
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Yes...............chim
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  #9  
Old 01-08-2008, 10:14 PM
RICOCHET

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thanks again, chim,

now i need to remove everything and "bend" it back to how it is 'sposed
to be. but need to fix the slide lock anyway, soooooo,

am getting good at straightening out the recoil rod, and havent lost the
lil "c" clip yet, lol,

rico....








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  #10  
Old 01-08-2008, 11:03 PM
speed647
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How'dja do drilling and tapping the trigger Rico?

Just got my target trigger w/set screw in the mail today from Browning. Seems like it would be quite the precise little machining job.
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  #11  
Old 01-08-2008, 11:24 PM
RICOCHET

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speed, D&T'ing

went as could be xpected, but would have been a lot easier to have a
"drop in". do you have a part number for that trigger?

my parts list for browning doesn't seem to be working very well,

rico....








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  #12  
Old 01-09-2008, 12:08 AM
speed647
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Rico, The price list for parts is here (big download)...
http://media.browning.com/pdf/parts/..._pricelist.pdf
look on page 97 item 71, p/n B5152898, $10.50

Then I used this order form:
http://media.browning.com/pdf/parts/partsorderform.pdf
and faxed it in to them, $18 and change shipped USPS.
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  #13  
Old 10-16-2011, 01:14 AM
DrMark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chim View Post
Remove the right side first, and install it last. This makes it easier because the safety and slide release hang over the grip on the left side. The grip needs to move down on the left side for removal, and up for reinstallation. That's difficult when the right side of the grip is fastened. The URX grips kinda have a mind of their own. The front tips have a habit of wanting to get tied up in the trigger guard when you're not looking.

Keep the pistol flat with the right side up. Remove the right grip screw. Pry the right grip up, and note the locations of the disconnector and its spring, the arched T-shaped mag button spring and the mag safety wire. The right grip keeps these things in place. When you turn the pistol, the mag button and T-shaped spring will fall out - no biggie. The rest of the parts may stay in place or may not, depending upon how rough you need to get with the pistol.

Now lay the gun flat with the left side up. Remove the grip screw and pry the grip away at the bottom. With the grip loose on the right side, you will be able to work the grip down and away from the slide release lever. Lift the slide release lever from the pistol. Note how the small leg of the spring goes through the hole in the slide release lever.

To remove the trigger, two pins need to come out. First tap out the pin that engages with the disconnector. It only goes through the right half of the frame and the trigger. There's a hole in the left side of the frame to allow you to use a small punch to tap the pin out. Next tap out the trigger pivot pin.

When you reinstall the trigger pins, start with the pivot pin. Then tap the disconnector pin back in. Care should be taken with this pin to get it set to the right height. If you tap it in too far, the pin will tie the trigger up because it will either bind against the frame or enter the pin's access hole on the left side. It needs to be set deeply enough so it doesn't rub the inside of the right grip.

Hope this helps, and sorry if some of this is a repeat of info you already have................chim
Great, succinct set of directions... thanks!

I just put in a Browning trigger with the set screw.
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