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  #1  
Old 11-16-2007, 05:22 PM
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Trigger happy



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I'm thinking I'd like to know what's involved in lightening my 452Lux trigger to about 1# or so. It's currently at about 4.
Here's the thing:
I've never done a mod to any rifle and I'm borderline skeert to take anything apart because I don't want to majorly screw it up.
I need pictures. Step by step pictures.
I need instructions. Step by step instructions.
They have to be written for a five year old.
I have limited tools, so I need a list of tools I'd need too... BEFORE I touch anything, in case I have to get something different to do the job.
I need a help hotline that's available 24/7 like maybe a "1-800-YouReallyScrewedYourCZdidn'tYou?!" CZ's R Us Line.
I need a support group willing to tell me it will all be OK, and prayer.
Ready?
Set?
Go!
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  #2  
Old 11-16-2007, 06:29 PM
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Get a grip on your self. LOL You can do it JetGirl
What kit are you thinking about getting.
Brooks kit or Auto Solutions kit ???

Swiss
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  #3  
Old 11-16-2007, 06:37 PM
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Are you even thinking about adding a kit? Do you just want to start by doing an adjustment with what you have? I suggest starting with a drink...
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Old 11-16-2007, 06:49 PM
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You should be able to get close to three pounds with the factory setup, at least my Special did. I put the Brooks kit in and got it at two pounds with the heaviest spring from the kit. Used the largest tube and got almost no creep.

The only tools I used were a drift punch( forgot the size) , a small hammer, and a small wrench for the adjustment nut. A block of wood to support the trigger prongs while you are hammering is a good idea. Brooks sells a jig to support it, probably much better than the block of wood, don't know the cost.

The 452 trigger is a simple set up, if I didn't screw it up you won't have any problems. Uncle Murphy follows me everywhere, but my trigger works fine.

Go for it.

Jay
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Old 11-16-2007, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by midwest swiss View Post
What kit are you thinking about getting.
Brooks kit or Auto Solutions kit ???
Kit?? I need a kit??
Quote:
Originally Posted by waterbug 1232 View Post
Do you just want to start by doing an adjustment with what you have?
yeah that ^. That sounds like what I need!
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Originally Posted by waterbug 1232 View Post
I suggest starting with a drink...
I hope coffee counts!
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Originally Posted by jbird714 View Post
drift punch
What is this alien "drift punch" you speak of??
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Old 11-16-2007, 07:07 PM
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Got milk? Oh, I had to...
First thing ya want to do is set your rifle on something nice and soft... I used my stomach.... You will see 2 slotted screws, one closest to the the muzzle end of the stock, and one just in font of the trigger gard. There are 3 screws in the trigger gard, you want the middle one... Now, b4 anything else, b sure you
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Old 11-16-2007, 07:08 PM
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if you have the owner's manual, i'd recommend disassembling and reassembling it to build some confidence. you can clean it right? if you can clean it you can dissassemble it. adjusting the trigger is just disassembly and reassembly with one step in between. installing a trigger kit is just like that, only when you reassemble it you're switching out stock parts for aftermarket. take your rifle apart and put it back together 5 times as training. do it until you feel like you can teach somebody else to do it. then work on the trigger... adjusting the tension on the spring. all the way in, all the way out. do it 5 times. if you can read what i'm writing, you can read the manual, and use it to get started. you will not mess your rifle up. just don't use a hammer and don't force anything where it doesn't feel like it needs to go.


that being said, i've never installed a trigger kit, but i've rebuilt a carburetor, and i was scared, just like you. i didn't want to mess anything up. i took step by step pictures myself before removing any parts so i would know where things went. you can do it. take a picture between every step. if you can read what i'm writing you can take pictures and keep them in order. dive in. if you get to a point where you need a tool, put it back together and then get the tool. then take it back to that point, and use the new tool.to take the next step. repeat as neccessary. you're a full grown JetGirl right? if you can read this, if you can drive a car and use the radio and the windshield wipers at the same time you can install a trigger kit. become comfortable and familiar with your rifle, then make it how you want to. good luck
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Old 11-16-2007, 07:14 PM
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The suspense got to ya, didn't it?? B4 you do ANYTHING b sure you have a screwdriver that fits the slots in these screws, or youll mar things up. Once you have the correct size screwdriver, take both of those screws out (keep straight which goes were) and lift the stock STRAIGHT up and off the assembly. Once done, get an 8 mm wrench and back the nut under the spring behind the trigger all the way down. Then put the stock back on the assembly, put the screws in, and you are done. No joke.
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  #9  
Old 11-16-2007, 07:22 PM
sobrbiker883
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Everything you request is right here in this forum............
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Old 11-16-2007, 07:41 PM
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If you want a #1 or so trigger pull.
I don't think the stock trigger will go that low.
Maybe if the spring adjustment nut was taken off
maybe it could get down to 2.5lbs ???
A 2.5 to 3lbs is a nice trigger.

Swiss
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  #11  
Old 11-16-2007, 07:43 PM
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http://cz452.com/springkit.html

Go here, read, absorb, come back and ask more questions. I'm sure you can do it. I'll loan you the fixtures if you don't want or need to buy them. Easy job, if you have half an hour with no distractions. Take a deep breath. Go for it.

OS
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Old 11-16-2007, 08:08 PM
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Jetgirl, I'd be happy to talk you through the process on the phone....

all you will need is the correct screwdriver to remove the action from the stock, and the correct pin punch with a small hammer. That's about it. It is a very easy thing to do, but will involve a run to your local hardware store for a new spring, once you get the factory spring out. If you are interested, let me know and I will email you my phone #.

It's a very easy fix and will be a very empowering, feminist kind of thing to do. The next time you are at the range and someone tries your CZ, and comments, "wow, that's a nice trigger", you can respond, "Yeah, I did a trigger job on it myself."
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  #13  
Old 11-16-2007, 08:29 PM
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Hey Jet, you can do it! You may need only a screwdriver and a small wrench (or pliers), or you may also need a pin punch, a small hammer, and a spring to replace the one currently in your rifle, depending on how light you want the trigger to be. A "pin punch" is a hardened steel rod used to push out pins, with a squared end to handle being hammered on. They come in different diameters. I think a perfect fit would be 3/32" or, to be sure it will fit, one that is 1/16" diameter. I used a nail to do the job, but I wouldn't do it again. You can get the punch and spring at your local hardware store.

Step 1 -- take the stock off the rifle. To avoid marring up the screw slots, use a "proper" screw driver to do this. That means one with a hollow ground blade instead of the tapered blade found on normal screwdrivers.

When you get the rifle out, you'll find the trigger's inner workings:



Step 2 - use a small screwdriver to lift the lock washer away from the adjusting nut on the trigger spring. That frees the nut so that you can use a small wrench (as I recall, it is 6mm) or a pair of pliers to turn the adjusting nut so that it moves down towards the trigger. Getting the nut all the way to the bottom of that rod gives you the lightest possible trigger pull with the spring currently installed in the rifle. Here is a close up of the spring and nut:



Step 3 - try the trigger to see if you are happy with it. You may want to put the stock back on to give it a proper try.

Step 4 - If the trigger is not light enough, you can go a little bit further by removing the adjusting nut. That gives the spring a little more room to stretch out. To get the nut off, you first have to remove one of the pins from the trigger. In this pic, it is the pin at the top of the trigger, furthest to the left:



Use your pin punch and hammer to get that pin out. It will be a bit hard to get started but once it starts moving it should come out fairly easily. Put the rifle on a padded but solid surface (a towel on top of your work table) and support the trigger on something so you don't accidently bend it while hammering away. Something about the thickness of a deck of cards should do the trick in supporting the trigger. Once the pin starts moving you need to make sure it has room to get free on the back side. I just put it on my lap at that point.

Step 5 - With the pin removed, you can pivot the trigger down and forward, allowing you to remove the adjusting rod from the hole where it goes up into the action. Slide the spring off the rod, then remove the washer and nut. Put the washer and nut away someplace safe in case you decide to reinstall them later. Now put the spring back on and reassemble everything. There should still be some spring tension holding the trigger against the sear; if not, the trigger isn't safe and could fire with a bump of the rifle. So, if removing the nut doesn't leave you with spring tension between trigger and sear, put the nut back on there.

Step 6 - Try your trigger again. If still not happy with it, the next step is to replace the spring with a weaker one. Take it back apart (as in step 4), put the nut and washer back on, then put on your lighter spring and reassemble everything. If you find the new spring makes the trigger pull too light just turn the adjusting nut so it climbs away from the trigger and compresses the spring... that makes the pull harder.

That's it!

The kit everyone talks about is a set of 4 springs of various strengths, along with 4 tubes that go over one of the pins in the trigger to take up creep. It's not the pin we knocked out (above) but the other shiney one just to the right of it. For more info on that, see the ... EDIT to add later version of the tutorial.... excellent tutorial OKSHooter put together here:

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=330293

.
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Last edited by Sophia; 09-08-2017 at 02:36 PM. Reason: add link to OKShooter's tutorial.
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  #14  
Old 11-16-2007, 08:41 PM
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JetGirl.... theres a kit for sale. Let me know and I'll grab it for you. I have a 24/7 number that you know, so.... anytime your ready to tear into it, let me know.


Well... there was a kit. It looks to be sold. Let me know and I can get'er done for ya.
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Old 11-16-2007, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cellar rat View Post
if you have the owner's manual, i'd recommend disassembling and reassembling it to build some confidence.
That's decent advice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sobrbiker883 View Post
Everything you request is right here in this forum............
Do you know how many hits that search gets? And how many of them with "trigger" aren't related to changing pull?
Actually, the first several I skimmed were sort of written from the perspective that the reader should already know certain things...which I don't.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldSwede View Post
http://cz452.com/springkit.html

Go here, read, absorb, come back and ask more questions. I'm sure you can do it. I'll loan you the fixtures if you don't want or need to buy them.
Thanks for the link, and for the loan offer, but if I need stuff I'm gonna just buy it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by beammeupscotty View Post
That's about it. It is a very easy thing to do, but will involve a run to your local hardware store for a new spring, once you get the factory spring out.
Thanks for the heads up where to go instead of thinking I had to order from a gun parts site.
Quote:
Originally Posted by beammeupscotty View Post
If you are interested, let me know and I will email you my phone #.
Thanks, but no thanks. No offense intended.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophia View Post
Hey Jet, you can do it! You may need only a screwdriver and a small wrench (or pliers), or you may also need a pin punch, a small hammer, and a spring to replace the one currently in your rifle, depending on how light you want the trigger to be. A "pin punch" is a hardened steel rod used to push out pins, with a squared end to handle being hammered on. They come in different diameters. I think a perfect fit would be 3/32" or, to be sure it will fit, one that is 1/16" diameter. I used a nail to do the job, but I wouldn't do it again. You can get the punch and spring at your local hardward store.

Step 1 -- take the stock off the rifle. To avoid marring up the screw slots, use a "proper" screw driver to do this. That means one with a hollow ground blade instead of the tapered blade found on normal screwdrivers.

When you get the rifle out, you'll find the trigger's inner workings (pic from Fuzzy Limey):



Step 2 - use a small screwdriver to lift the lock washer away from the adjusting nut on the trigger spring. That frees the nut so that you can use a small wrench (as I recall, it is 6.5mm) or a pair of pliers to turn the adjusting nut so that it moves down towards the trigger. Getting the nut all the way to the bottom of that rod gives you the lightest possible trigger pull with the spring currently installed in the rifle. Here is a close up of the spring and nut:



Step 3 - try the trigger to see if you are happy with it. You may want to put the stock back on to give it a proper try.

Step 4 - If the trigger is not light enough, you can go a little bit further by removing the adjusting nut. That gives the spring a little more room to stretch out. To get the nut off, you first have to remove one of the pins from the trigger. In this pic, it is the pin at the top of the trigger, furthest to the right:



Use your pin punch and hammer to get that pin out. It will be a bit hard to get started but once it starts moving it should come out fairly easily. Put the rifle on a padded but solid surface (a towel on top of your work table) and support the trigger on something so you don't accidently bend it while hammering away. Something about the thickness of a deck of cards should do the trick in supporting the trigger. Once the pin starts moving you need to make sure it has room to get free on the back side. I just put it on my lap at that point.

Step 5 - With the pin removed, you can pivot the trigger down and forward, allowing you to remove the adjusting rod from the hole where it goes up into the action. Slide the spring off the rod, then remove the washer and nut. Put the washer and nut away someplace safe in case you decide to reinstall them later. Now put the spring back on and reassemble everything.

Step 6 - Try your trigger again. If still not happy with it, the next step is to replace the spring with a weaker one. Take it back apart (as in step 4), put the nut and washer back on, then put on your lighter spring and reassemble everything. If you find the new spring makes the trigger pull too light just turn the adjusting nut so it climbs away from the trigger and compresses the spring... that makes the pull harder.

That's it!

The kit everyone talks about is a set of 4 springs of various strengths, along with 4 tubes that go over one of the pins in the trigger to take up creep. It's not the pin we knocked out (above) but the other shiney one just to the left of it. For more info on that, see the page Old Swede linked to at Eric Brooks' site.

BTW -- if you decide you want the kit, you can get it from Whittaker Guns.
Now THAT'S what I'm talkin' about!! I won't have time to tinker with it until Thanksgiving weekend at least (maybe even later), but I wanted to get as much info as I could FIRST. I think this will get printed off!
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