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  #1  
Old 10-02-2019, 08:30 PM
Nasaboy87

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Is this still shootable?



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I was inspecting an old family Stevens 66c and noticed a crack on the receiver where the Barrell attaches. I would like to know if it's still safe to shoot, can be fixed, or is a wall hanger.

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  #2  
Old 10-02-2019, 10:23 PM
octanejunkie

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I would have a gunsmith evaluate it but from my experience, not if it's a crack in the area where the locking lugs engage

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  #3  
Old 10-03-2019, 04:08 AM
rc.

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Is the barrel metal cracked? If not, your fine to shoot it in my opinion. Use lowered powered ammo just for safety.
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  #4  
Old 10-03-2019, 06:05 AM
Shenandoah

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Is shooting it really worth the risk ?
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  #5  
Old 10-03-2019, 06:21 AM
tim slater

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Even if the lug recesses are still sound, the crack though the barrel tenon is unlikely to help matters. A loose barrel is not good for either accuracy or safety.
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  #6  
Old 10-03-2019, 07:32 AM
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Since the cartridge is enclosed in the barrel chamber, and IF the bolt seats firmly against the cartridge case with no headspace, and since the 22 rimfire cartridge is a relatively low intensity cartridge, I personally would have no issue with shooting it......as long as the barrel is not loose in the receiver. If the barrel is loose, it will back out at some point and create headspace and accuracy and safety issues. IF you do choose to shoot it, test it in a safe manner a number of times and keep a close check on it thereafter. Do check to ensure the barrel chamber is in good condition and not also compromised in some way.

This is not a recommendation, just telling you what I would do if I just really wanted to shoot that gun. In the shape it is in, it might not be worth it, but the value of a gun is a personal judgement. Maybe it was grandpa's old gun? As far as fixing, not sure about the best way to attempt that....seems it would need to be welded in some way and the final repair may cost a lot more than it's worth.
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  #7  
Old 10-03-2019, 08:30 AM
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Isn't that from the corrosive ammo era? I'd check the bore also.
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  #8  
Old 10-03-2019, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by octanejunkie View Post
I would have a gunsmith evaluate it but from my experience, not if it's a crack in the area where the locking lugs engage

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Not on a .22 at least a .22 of that build quality. I mean it's perfectly well built for its price point but that rifle locks on the bolt knob no need for a strong action.

I'd watch it but keep shooting it. My 66 is a solid performer
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  #9  
Old 10-03-2019, 09:05 AM
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22 rifles are cheap enough less expensive than a doctor's visit, plug the barrel and use it as a wall hanger, why play with fire.

Last edited by lefty222; 10-03-2019 at 09:08 AM.
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  #10  
Old 10-03-2019, 09:26 AM
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Another thought....

Is the stock in good condition? The reason I ask is that one possible reason the crack (assuming it is a crack) is in the receiver is that that gun was dropped and the end of the barrel struck the ground or some such in a way that put torque on the barrel receiver area and cracked the receiver where the barrel enters - and possibly damaged the stock. I would give the bore a good cleaning and visually inspect to see if the barrel might be bent slightly.

My recommendation is that unless you feel compelled to shoot it for some reason then clean it up, reassemble and hang on the wall as a family heirloom. As stated, .22 rifles can be purchased pretty cheaply if you want a good, reliable, worry free shooter. But again, if the barrel receiver connection is solid and the barrel and bore are in good condition, and the bolt locks up tight....then I would not be afraid to shoot it.
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  #11  
Old 10-03-2019, 09:43 AM
WalnutBill22
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My concern would be how that crack got there in the first place. There shouldn't be much stress on the action in that area, so I tend to agree with Pump .22s and Jammer22. I think you should be OK shooting it with .22 standard velocity, but if you ever have any problems such as blown or bulged rims or spitting gas, stop immediately.

Like all .22 semiautos, this one is a blow-back design that fires from an unlocked breech - at least it does with long rifle ammo. It can also be fired with shorts and longs by locking the bolt in the forward hole on the left side of the receiver.
Personally I think I might try carefully degreasing the crack area with something like acetone or lacquer thinner. Then mix up some JBWeld and force it into the crack area and wipe off any excess.

As the others have said, this is not a top-tier rifle, so unless it has a lot of sentimental value, it's not worth an expensive repair.
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  #12  
Old 10-03-2019, 10:54 AM
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Bill, I'm sure you recognize the lifter design as that used on the Savage/Stevens semi-autos like the Savage Model 6, but this is a bolt action version, every thing from the rear of the chamber forward is the same as the semi-autos except for the lifter being thicker metal (for some unknown reason).

If the barrel feels tight in the action it might be OK, the pin goes all the way through and hopefully it's not cracked on the other side too. If it were mine I would get it welded, but I do all that myself so the cost for me is not an issue.

With all the high performance 22 loadings now being offered I have wondered about the safety of shooting them in some older 22's. I don't know if that had anything to do with this, the 66C has a strong action but I know of a lot of older 22's that are not safe to shoot with anything above standard velocity, and some not even with that. I have a couple high condition Savage 29B pumps from the 1960's that have distorted locking surfaces, I have no idea what was shot in them or when it happened but it was not something I expected to see on a 1960's gun, I am now really careful what I feed my older guns.

Last edited by Sav22; 10-03-2019 at 11:03 AM.
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Old 10-03-2019, 11:11 AM
Nasaboy87

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Originally Posted by Sav22 View Post
Bill, I'm sure you recognize the lifter design as that used on the Savage/Stevens semi-autos like the Savage Model 6, but this is a bolt action version, every thing from the rear of the chamber forward is the same as the semi-autos except for the lifter being thicker metal (for some unknown reason).

If the barrel feels tight in the action it might be OK, the pin goes all the way through and hopefully it's not cracked on the other side too. If it were mine I would get it welded, but I do all that myself so the cost for me is not an issue.

With all the high performance 22 loadings now being offered I have wondered about the safety of shooting them in some older 22's. I don't know if that had anything to do with this, the 66C has a strong action but I know of a lot of older 22's that are not safe to shoot with anything above standard velocity, and some not even with that. I have a couple high condition Savage 29B pumps from the 1960's that have distorted locking surfaces, I have no idea what was shot in them or when it happened but it was not something I expected to see on a 1960's gun, I am now really careful what I feed my older guns.
I looked closer at the pin that holds the barrel in and the metal looks newer than the rest of the receiver. I think that it was replaced when it was cracked. The barrel does not move no matter how much force you use and snapcaps all eject cleanly, even when fed manually into the breach.

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  #14  
Old 10-03-2019, 11:27 AM
WalnutBill22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sav22 View Post
Bill, I'm sure you recognize the lifter design as that used on the Savage/Stevens semi-autos like the Savage Model 6, but this is a bolt action version, every thing from the rear of the chamber forward is the same as the semi-autos except for the lifter being thicker metal (for some unknown reason).

If the barrel feels tight in the action it might be OK, the pin goes all the way through and hopefully it's not cracked on the other side too. If it were mine I would get it welded, but I do all that myself so the cost for me is not an issue.

With all the high performance 22 loadings now being offered I have wondered about the safety of shooting them in some older 22's. I don't know if that had anything to do with this, the 66C has a strong action but I know of a lot of older 22's that are not safe to shoot with anything above standard velocity, and some not even with that. I have a couple high condition Savage 29B pumps from the 1960's that have distorted locking surfaces, I have no idea what was shot in them or when it happened but it was not something I expected to see on a 1960's gun, I am now really careful what I feed my older guns.
Thanks for correcting me on this, Gene. It sure looked like the bottom of my Stevens/Springfield 87A, so I thought it was a later version of the Savage M6. I still think I would give the JB Weld a try and not worry too much unless it began to have some problems.
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Old 10-03-2019, 12:32 PM
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From Nasaboy87's last post, I feel more positive about the gun being ok to shoot. In these .22 rimfires, the barrel chamber takes most of the brunt of the pressure, and if the chamber is sound and shows no evidence of swelling, then I don't have too many concerns about it. As mentioned previously keep a check on fired cases behind the rim looking for unusual swelling or splitting. I would avoid high intensity, high velocity rounds and stick with the Standard Velocity types rounds.....something like CCI SV should work very well.
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