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  #1  
Old 11-23-2018, 12:05 PM
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Action bedding Magpul X-22



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I have a standard Ruger 10/22 action which when dropped into a Magpul X-22 stock will teeter back and forth with the stock screw area as the fulcrum point.

Below shows what I discovered during my inspection process. The size of the retaining pin holes in the receiver and the trigger group were measured using pin guages. The rear holes were the worst and the amount of resulting slop between the receiver and trigger group was excessive. Without reaming the holes to the same size I saw no way that simply replacing the pins with larger ones would solve the problem.





I decided to experiment using blue painters tape on the stock's ledge under which the trigger group is retained to see if that would fix the problem. Area "A" in the picture above points at the area of the trigger group that slides under that ledge.

The picture below shows the stock ledge where I layered on four or five pieces of tape. The plastic of the stock is so smooth that the blue color of the tape is reflected by the vertical wall to the rear of the ledge.



This resulted in the elimination of the teetering of the stock but there was still fore and aft movement of the action. So I added blue tape to the forward edge of the stock at area "B" in the pics. This eliminated the fore and aft movement. At this point I'm satisfied that my tape experiment has identified the areas to be addressed to tighten the receiver to stock fit.



The remaining issue is using bedding compound to replace the blue tape for a permanent fix. The problem is I don't think any of the various forms of epoxy bedding compound will stick to the slick plastic of the stock.

If anyone has any experience bedding one of these Magpul X-22 stocks, I'd really appreciate hearing about the technique needed to ensure a secure bond between the stock and epoxy bedding compund.

The image below shows the areas where I'd like to add epoxy bedding compund in addition to the "A" ledge area.


Last edited by Steve_Allentown; 09-13-2019 at 10:10 AM.
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Old 11-23-2018, 04:43 PM
GH41

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_Allentown View Post
I have a standard Ruger 10/22 action which when dropped into a Magpul X-22 stock will teeter back and forth with the stock screw area as the fulcrum point.

Below shows what I discovered during my inspection process. The size of the retaining pin holes in the receiver and the trigger group were measured using pin guages. The rear holes were the worst and the amount of resulting slop between the receiver and trigger group was excessive. Without reaming the holes to the same size I saw no way that simply replacing the pins with larger ones would solve the problem.





I decided to experiment using blue painters tape on the stock's ledge under which the trigger group is retained to see if that would fix the problem. Area "A" in the picture above points at the area of the trigger group that slides under that ledge.

The picture below shows the stock ledge where I layered on four or five pieces of tape. The plastic of the stock is so smooth that the blue color of the tape is reflected by the vertical wall to the rear of the ledge.



This resulted in the elimination of the teetering of the stock but there was still fore and aft movement of the action. So I added blue tabe to the forward edge of the stock at area "B" in the pics. This eliminated the fore and aft movement. At this point I'm satisfied that my tape experiment has identified the areas to be addressed to tighten the receiver to stock fit.



The remaining issue is using bedding compound to replace the blue tape for a permanent fix. The problem is I don't think any of the various forms of epoxy bedding compound will stick to the slick plastic of the stock.

If anyone has any experience bedding one of these Magpul X-22 stocks, I'd really appreciate hearing about the technique needed to ensure a secure bond between the stock and epoxy bedding compund.

The image below shows the areas where I'd like to add epoxy bedding compund in addition to the "A" ledge area.

IMO the best way to deal with the slack pins is with a small set screw installed in the receiver that pushes the trigger group forward. To stop the rocking bed the rear and bottom of the receiver and the first inch of the barrel forward of the V-block. For bonding I would wash the stock to get any release agent off and dimple the areas to be bedded with a small ball end grinding bit or small drill bit. It doesn't have to be deep you just want a little grip. I like Marine-Tex. I wouldn't fool with the area the trigger group contacts.
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Old 11-23-2018, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by GH41 View Post
I wouldn't fool with the area the trigger group contacts.
I don't understand why not. It seems that using the rear of the trigger group would act much like a second anchor point that would prevent the rear of the action from lifting up.
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Old 11-24-2018, 02:41 AM
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Welcome to the Asylum

Hello, and welcome. Theres a reason my good friend Chaser refers to these rifles as 10 Tweaky 2s.

My go to fix for loose trigger pins (which means virtually ALL of them, sooner or later) is to chamfer the holes in the receiver and install a set of Kidd trigger pins.
They create a solid connection where one is needed most- between the fire control system and receiver. The kit pictured below includes the countersink/machine tool bit recommended to get the chamfer angle just right. I already had the proper end mill bit, which saved me $9.



The kit costs $30, pins w/Allen screws and wrenches $22:

http://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-Thre...Tool_p_53.html


You might wanna look at this thread I called Gunnerbedding, info on bedding with Devcon 10110, Plastic Steel Epoxy putty:

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forum...d.php?t=526029

Any time you bed a polymer stock, it is IMPERATIVE that you rough up all surfaces that you want the bedding compound to adhere to. Sandpaper is insufficient, unless you use 60- or 80 grit and lots of elbow grease. For a stock with lots of compartments, a dremel or die grinder is needed to rough up the recesses, and in many cases its best to fill the recesses with a light weight space filler like pine blocks cemented in place, or you risk adding too much weight IF there are many voids to fill. Anchor holes drilled into adherence areas are a plus.
I did post a few threads on bedding Archangel 10-22 Deluxe Target stocks years ago but theyve been buried by time. I bedded a CZ 452 Silhouette a few years back and that thread will have relevant info.

Before & After







Thread



https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forum...d.php?t=553471



Hope this helps-

DrGunner
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Old 11-24-2018, 10:08 AM
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DrGunner, thank you for your most informative and helpful reply. Lots for me to digest.

This is my first foray into the land of 10/22s and I've discovered it is as filled with nuance as any other firearm. My primary focus over the years has been on 1911s so bedding, while I understand the concept, is a new subject for me. Technique is very often something that has to be learned through trial and error. I'm trying to minimize the error potential by being here, reading, and asking questions.

Again, many thanks.
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Old 11-24-2018, 10:20 AM
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My 2 cents. So because it was teetertoting on the action screw area you raised the end points above the fulcrum and then the the action was playing shuffleboard.

Maybe if you ground down the fulcrum point , on the stock,not the receiver, it would sit deeper and not rock or shuffle.

Or maybe a simple pressure pad under the front of the action where the barrel climbs out of the inletting would be enough to unteeter it.

Maybe a simpler solution might solve your problems, maybe not.

Speaking of simple , what torque setting are you using on the action screw? And is it possible that the action screw is too long and bottoming out? And you just need a shorter action screw.

But unless you are a very handy craftsman the bedding can be very daunting.
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Old 11-24-2018, 10:28 AM
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As DrGunner said. The Kidd chamfered trigger pins are the best way to tighten up the trigger group. You want the trigger group to be tight / no play in the receiver. If you want a hold down the do it at the rear of the receiver, not using the trigger group to as a hold down.
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Old 11-24-2018, 10:45 AM
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+1 on dbl checking the action screw for bottoming out thus never being able to really cinch it all together.
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Old 11-24-2018, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toomany22s View Post
My 2 cents. So because it was teetertoting on the action screw area you raised the end points above the fulcrum and then the the action was playing shuffleboard.
Putting the blue tape on the stock's trigger group interface ledge didn't raise the the rear of the receiver. It would have had the effect of lowering the rear of the receiver ever so slightly. Then the action screw would have pulled the front of the receiver down. I will have to use some modelling clay to see if I can positively identify the fulcrum point.

As Hawkeye, GH41, and DrGunner mentioned it may be best if I attempt to bed the action so as to avoid putting any stress on the receiver by anchoring the rear and pulling down the front. Just make a flat bed on which the receiver sits without movement then install the action screw and adjust its torque for maximum accuracy.

Quote:
Speaking of simple , what torque setting are you using on the action screw?
I've read here about the importance of setting and adjusting torque on the action screw but have not yet purchased a suitable torque wrench. After a fair amount of research I'm looking seriously at the Borka wrench.

Quote:
And is it possible that the action screw is too long and bottoming out? And you just need a shorter action screw.
I've also read about this as a possibility and ground down the end of the OEM screw a small amount. Either I didn't take enough off or this isn't the cause of the teetering.

Is anyone aware of others who have actually bedded one of these Magpul X-22 stocks?
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Old 11-24-2018, 11:43 AM
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I had the same problem as you with a x-ring rifle and a x22 stock. I was worried about getting a good bedding job done on the polymer so I tried the factory plastic piece they include for applying pressure to the barrel. It got rid of the teeter effect but the accuracy wasn’t good. I then tried a small piece of thin foam 1” back from the forearm tip to apply pressure and that worked excellent. I also tried metal tape at the rear of the receiver and around the trigger guard shelf but wasn’t real happy with either of those methods. I would have preferred a pillar and jb weld bed like I do on wood stocks but it shoots excellent now and I didn’t want to invest anymore time in it.

Last edited by shepmankev; 11-24-2018 at 11:47 AM.
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Old 11-24-2018, 11:44 AM
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Try a light film of lipstick on the bottom of the receiver, and take down area. It will tell you where your not making contact.
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Old 11-24-2018, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_Allentown View Post
Putting the blue tape on the stock's trigger group interface ledge didn't raise the the rear of the receiver. It would have had the effect of lowering the rear of the receiver ever so slightly. Then the action screw would have pulled the front down

Is anyone aware of others who have actually bedded one of these Magpul X-22 stocks?
Im sorry I misunderstood your taping under the trigger ledge.

All I was offering was some advice to help you.

I wont make that mistake again.
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Old 11-24-2018, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Toomany22s View Post
Im sorry I misunderstood your taping under the trigger ledge.

I wont make that mistake again.
Hah! No worries. I hope I didn't come off as being critical of your advice. Just the opposite. I appreciate you weighing in. It forced me to think through the geometry of the parts and visualize the forces in play.
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Old 11-24-2018, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shepmankev View Post
I then tried a small piece of thin foam 1 back from the forearm tip to apply pressure and that worked excellent.
I've read other posts in which guys describe using varying thicknesses of bicycle inner tube at that spot with good results. Maybe that's the secret sauce for this Magpul stock too.
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Old 11-24-2018, 09:35 PM
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I would either shorten the takedown bolt more, or buy a volquartsen takedown bolt. It's quite a bit shorter and has taken care of teetering in a couple of my rifles.
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