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  #16  
Old 03-08-2019, 03:01 PM
srbecker

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Very helpful reply, thank you so much!!!! I know I am just prematurely posting about accuracy issues so early into my ownership of the rifle, but seeing everyone's negative comments about the rifle, I got a little concerned. I am hoping between break in, a better scope, ammo testing and of course better shooting mechanics on my end, I can easily bring this thing to be a 1 moa shooter or at least inside 1" circles at 50 yards and hitting pop cans at 100. Plinker type accuracy is my main goal here, similar to my 597.
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Old 03-08-2019, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by srbecker View Post
Very helpful reply, thank you so much!!!! I know I am just prematurely posting about accuracy issues so early into my ownership of the rifle, but seeing everyone's negative comments about the rifle, I got a little concerned. I am hoping between break in, a better scope, ammo testing and of course better shooting mechanics on my end, I can easily bring this thing to be a 1 moa shooter or at least inside 1" circles at 50 yards and hitting pop cans at 100. Plinker type accuracy is my main goal here, similar to my 597.
What are you shooting for ammo? Some .22lr won't do close to 1 moa even if they ran down a straight barrel all the way to the target.
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  #18  
Old 03-08-2019, 03:23 PM
srbecker

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I only shot CCI AR Tactical 40gr as that is what I had because that is what my 597 likes. I plan to collect some other brands for testing while I wait for my new scope. On my list is CCI SV, Wolf if I can find some, some cheap Winchester bulk stuff, and maybe the Augila I think they are called. I have to stick with ammo that is readily available at my local retailers because we cannot have ammo shipped to our house in NY.
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  #19  
Old 03-08-2019, 03:24 PM
srbecker

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I also care about grouping enough to hit targets out to 100, but I dont own a chrono nor have any intentions on testing ammo to that extent. I just want acceptable, not perfect.
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  #20  
Old 03-08-2019, 03:45 PM
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CCI Green Tag does really well in mine, it will shoot MOA at 100 yards, and I'm really quite happy with that.

I don't think you made a mistake, it's just finding the right ammo for the barrel.

The thread protector seems to more often than not reduce accuracy. I've been happy with mine at MoA at 100 yards, but I may try losing the tread protector and trying a simple muzzle break.
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Old 03-08-2019, 04:12 PM
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That brings up a good point. For those ditching the thread protector, what muzzle device are you running. I cannot run a can in NY, so I am limited to just muzzle brakes/compensators. Are there good ones/bad ones? What do they do to the accuracy?
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  #22  
Old 03-08-2019, 04:12 PM
srbecker

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Can I just throw any cheap muzzle brake on such as this?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0ORW3KWZ&psc=1
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  #23  
Old 03-08-2019, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by srbecker View Post
I am really hoping the stringing was the scope as it didnt seem like my adjustments were doing anything, then it would just jump 6 inches to the right...
Definite indicator.
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  #24  
Old 03-08-2019, 06:26 PM
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I can't find any information on what the factory sets the parallax on your scope to.

I'd suggest that before you condemn the rifle, you try a good quality, target scope with an adjustable objective.

Make all of the improvements you've mentioned, with the rest, etc.

You simply can not judge a rifle's precision with a scope intended for plinking at clays, as the manufacturer suggests.

I've had good luck with Mueller Scopes on a budget.

I love Nikon for their warranty.

Weaver makes a very popular T-36.


Some people just can't shoot some rifles worth a darn.

I've gone through several 'bench-rest style rifles' that should've shot great.

My CZ 452 would out shoot them all, and take up 1/3 the room in the safe. With just a Mueller AO scope on it.

I passed them all along, and kept my CZ.
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  #25  
Old 03-08-2019, 06:58 PM
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I've got a T-36 on my RPRR and I really like it for the most part. The Reticle is very fine and is hard to see in low light and/or against a black target. But the finess of it really helps when going long out to 200 or 300 yds. I wouldn't recommend if for a rifle that's used for some hunting, but it's great off a bench.
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  #26  
Old 03-08-2019, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by srbecker View Post
Can I just throw any cheap muzzle brake on such as this?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0ORW3KWZ&psc=1

I bought a JCB-Solutions muzzle brake off the internet, for about $35. While I happy with it, there are so many styles, designs and sizes, unless I bought 30-40 of them to try and compare, buying just one, makes it kind of hard to say itís the best. I have no current plans to start a muzzle brake trial, so Iím going to live with the one I have. I bought it to replace the factory thread protector, which with original design, caused a dead space just off the crown, that crusted up, very quickly, the muzzle brake seems to have cured that problem, so Iím satisfied.
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  #27  
Old 03-08-2019, 10:54 PM
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Forgot to mention that mine will only shoot those groups with the thread protector off. And be careful putting too much pressure on the grip, it will cause the stock to flex, the same is true with too much pressure on the cheek piece!


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  #28  
Old 03-09-2019, 10:54 AM
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Thanks starling! Now, I have also seen some people throw muzzle breaks on instead of that thread protector. Will those negatively effect the accuracy as well in your opinion?


from reading through that thread,
seems most people have the same or better accuracy when using a muzzle brake.
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  #29  
Old 03-18-2019, 08:44 AM
srbecker

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A little update:

I still have yet to get out and shoot the RPR with the new scope. I did however notice, even with the 10 round mags, that upon loading the bottom part of the bullet scrapes on the chamber and shaves off some of the bullet. I did order a single feed sled that I am going to try, at least for ammo testing and grouping. Once I know I have it grouping the way I want and is zeroed in, I can then use the magazines for plinking. If and when it comes down to shooting for accuracy (and if it makes a difference) I will use the sled.

I did inspect the thread protector and hated that gap in the end and based on everyones feedback, I ditched the protector and added a muzzle brake that was a daily deal on Primary Arms for only $19.99. It looks way better and was a PITA to install, so hopefully it groups well with it on haha.

On that note, how does everyone install, time, and torque a muzzle brake on this rifle? For my AR-15 I have a vice block, but for this (hopefully i didnt damage anything), I just simply clamped the flats on the barrel nut in my vice and timed the muzzle brake. I did not use a torque wrench, but I did use the crush washer and only my armorer's wrench to tighten it, so I couldnt have possibly gotten enough torque to damage anything, right? I hat to time it roughly 3/8 of a turn (slightly under half of the way) which should have been ok since I used the crush washer.
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  #30  
Old 03-18-2019, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by gunfan2 View Post
Forgot to mention that mine will only shoot those groups with the thread protector off. And be careful putting too much pressure on the grip, it will cause the stock to flex, the same is true with too much pressure on the cheek piece!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm pretty much convinced the flexi-Flyer stock is hindering accuracy/consistency. For the gun to really shoot it needs a full aluminum chassis IMO.

My RPR didn't vary much with or without the protector, maybe slightly tighter groups without. Though the first barrel always tossed a random flyer, second barrel and bolt was an improvement. It's best groups were using a Tactical Solutions Axiom suppressor.

It would be interesting to cut the internal bore of the thread protector with a 60* bevel and see it that improves accuracy variables.
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